Rotor Housing Grounds....
#1
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Rotor Housing Grounds....
I was wondering, i know normally the ground that goes to the rotor housings is supposed to be on the REAR rotor housing, but the shop put mine on the front rotor housing for whatever reason when they changed my intercooler to a front mount....
a friend and I tested the connection and the reading was low, so i made a grounding strap from the front rotor housing to the strut-tower, some of the hesitation is gone but should i be moving the screw back to the REAR rotor housing?, or does it not matter?...
a friend and I tested the connection and the reading was low, so i made a grounding strap from the front rotor housing to the strut-tower, some of the hesitation is gone but should i be moving the screw back to the REAR rotor housing?, or does it not matter?...
#2
Boost in..Apex seals out.
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As long as it's going to metal, it really shouldn't matter. You can move it back if you really want to..
If you want to get rid of that hesitation, try running a ground wire from that point, to the oil filler neck(..or was it coolant neck?). Somebody said that eliminates the hesitation in almost all cars.
If you want to get rid of that hesitation, try running a ground wire from that point, to the oil filler neck(..or was it coolant neck?). Somebody said that eliminates the hesitation in almost all cars.
#3
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i just did coolant neck (one of the two bolts that attach it to the water pump) to a strut tower bolt, smoothed out quite a bit, now i just have to tackle my corrossion issues.
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well take my post with a grain of salt as my car was bought recently with many here and there issues. one is I am missing the two inner studs of the four that attach my passenger side strut to the tower. it looked like there had been grounds there before (paint scratched away), so I just did that.
but I only did it because I read it in rotorforce's post, but it was dark and I couldn't find a suitable ground on the block with no light. but power delivery was liquidy smooth once I did it, may have been a placebo though.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...9&page=1&pp=15
but I only did it because I read it in rotorforce's post, but it was dark and I couldn't find a suitable ground on the block with no light. but power delivery was liquidy smooth once I did it, may have been a placebo though.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...9&page=1&pp=15
#6
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Originally Posted by sleepydave
well take my post with a grain of salt as my car was bought recently with many here and there issues. one is I am missing the two inner studs of the four that attach my passenger side strut to the tower. it looked like there had been grounds there before (paint scratched away), so I just did that.
but I only did it because I read it in rotorforce's post, but it was dark and I couldn't find a suitable ground on the block with no light. but power delivery was liquidy smooth once I did it, may have been a placebo though.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...9&page=1&pp=15
but I only did it because I read it in rotorforce's post, but it was dark and I couldn't find a suitable ground on the block with no light. but power delivery was liquidy smooth once I did it, may have been a placebo though.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...9&page=1&pp=15
after that i couldnt think of what else to do other then the filler neck....
#7
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Originally Posted by Archangels
i think what i need to do next is ground the injector harness or what it may be called under the upper intake manifold, the one that grounds to the firewall...
Fix/restore the factory ground points.
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#8
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
You've been grossly misinformed. There is no "injector harness"; the injector wiring is in the emissions harness. You cannot ground any part of the injectors or their wiring; you will cause either massive flooding or a blown EGI fuse if you do. The ground wire on the firewall attaches to the gearbox.
Fix/restore the factory ground points.
Fix/restore the factory ground points.
#9
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Originally Posted by Archangels
i thought ( was told ) there is a ground underneath the upper intake manifold...
...and that it would be in my best interest to re-ground that one ground that streches to the firewall...
#11
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It already is grounded through both the main ground bolted to the starter motor mount and the smaller ground wire on the gearbox. If all the metal-to-metal contact points in those paths are clean and tight then adding more wires won't do anything.
#12
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
It already is grounded through both the main ground bolted to the starter motor mount and the smaller ground wire on the gearbox. If all the metal-to-metal contact points in those paths are clean and tight then adding more wires won't do anything.
i still have quite the hesitation especially when i up the boost....
i'm shot on idea's....
#15
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Is this the 3800rpm hesitation or is it hesitating at other times, like when under load?
basically i could be at 1/4 throttle and when it goes into boost it hesitates, it'll make a blip or something of the same nature then go normally....
i've changed fuel filters, plugs, wires, basically everything....
#16
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I don't know a GTU from a GTX. So, is this a stock TurboII? How stock is it? Are you using the stock injectors? Or? 680's in the secondary??????
Have you taken a timing light to the thing and set the timing using the light?
Do you have things like SAFC on it? Or/????????????
Have you taken a timing light to the thing and set the timing using the light?
Do you have things like SAFC on it? Or/????????????
#17
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I've checked the timing, primary coils are spot on, trailing coils are retarded -2 degree's....
Mods:
- S4 Block with S5 Externals
- 3" Racing Beat Turbo-Back Exhaust
- S5 Polished Turbo With Massive Ported Wastegate
- Blitz DD BOV
- Coilovers ( Tein rear, Ground Control front )
- Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch
- HKS PFC F-Con
- HKS GCC
- Knights Turbo-Timer
- Knights FCD
- FD Flywheel
- Racing Beat Swaybar Kit
- JDM Brake Balancer
- Stainless-Steel Braded Brake Lines
- Autometer boost and A/F guages
- MazdaSpeed steering wheel
- MazdaSpeed racing pedels
- Manaray 6spoke 16" rims
- K&N Filter on 3Inch TID
- Yokohama AVS ES100 Z-Rated rubber
- Greddy ProfecB SpecII Boost controller
- Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
- Full Custom Grounding Kit
- Greddy Vspec FMIC
- MSD 8.5cm Race-Wires
- Megan Front Strut-Tower Bar
- Megan Rear Strut-Tower Bar
- Denso 720cc Secondary's
i'm stumped....
Mods:
- S4 Block with S5 Externals
- 3" Racing Beat Turbo-Back Exhaust
- S5 Polished Turbo With Massive Ported Wastegate
- Blitz DD BOV
- Coilovers ( Tein rear, Ground Control front )
- Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch
- HKS PFC F-Con
- HKS GCC
- Knights Turbo-Timer
- Knights FCD
- FD Flywheel
- Racing Beat Swaybar Kit
- JDM Brake Balancer
- Stainless-Steel Braded Brake Lines
- Autometer boost and A/F guages
- MazdaSpeed steering wheel
- MazdaSpeed racing pedels
- Manaray 6spoke 16" rims
- K&N Filter on 3Inch TID
- Yokohama AVS ES100 Z-Rated rubber
- Greddy ProfecB SpecII Boost controller
- Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
- Full Custom Grounding Kit
- Greddy Vspec FMIC
- MSD 8.5cm Race-Wires
- Megan Front Strut-Tower Bar
- Megan Rear Strut-Tower Bar
- Denso 720cc Secondary's
i'm stumped....
#20
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'er....
i have an S4 keg with all S5 externals and an FD flywheel....
it.... doesent shake at high RPM's?...
well i havent really been able to see how it reacts at high RPM's either but from when i was able to run it, it was fine....
and no, i have no Rtek....
i do notice the whole car kinda shakes at idle, and sometimes when i revv it?...
if i revv it in neutral the motor stays still, there's a blip at 4000rpm but this is most likely a hesitation problem i've been having....
i have an S4 keg with all S5 externals and an FD flywheel....
it.... doesent shake at high RPM's?...
well i havent really been able to see how it reacts at high RPM's either but from when i was able to run it, it was fine....
and no, i have no Rtek....
i do notice the whole car kinda shakes at idle, and sometimes when i revv it?...
if i revv it in neutral the motor stays still, there's a blip at 4000rpm but this is most likely a hesitation problem i've been having....
Last edited by Archangels; 06-22-06 at 07:17 PM.
#21
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Originally Posted by Archangels
it hesitates anytime i get back on the gas...
What the hell is a "JDM brake balancer"?
#22
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
That sounds more like a TPS problem. Are you absolutely sure it's set right? Have you checked to see you're getting the right voltage out of it, with not dead spots as you open the throttle?
What the hell is a "JDM brake balancer"?
What the hell is a "JDM brake balancer"?
a brake balancer, i think thats what it's called, it holds my master cylinder, it's a blue piece of metal reacing off my strut-tower to.... the master cylinder....
i'll take a pic for you one of these dayz....
#24
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
You mean a brake master cylinder brace. I have one too.
Aftermarket parts are not "JDM"...
Aftermarket parts are not "JDM"...
bleh....