yeti

iTrader: (1)

Hey, I need a clutch and my car is more or less stock. This clutch kit on rx7.com is $200. This is a very good deal from what I have found so far. I called them and they said it's OEM daikin. Well everyone else that I have found is about $275. Why are they so cheap versus everyone else?

Everyone else is exedy. Which I know Daikin is exedy.

Anyway, 89 NA

SpooledupRacing

I cant see how they are selling a oem daiken (exedy) clutch KIT for 200.00 shipped

unless they are gouging you 30.00 + for shipping

275.00 is about a normal price if u include the shipping

just make sure u are getting as FULL KIT..

yeti

iTrader: (1)

shipping is $11.

SpooledupRacing

if that comes with

pressure plate
disc
release bearing
pilot bearing
pilot bearing seal
tool

thats a good deal.. hell of a deal..

they must be selling things with little to no profit right now I would guess.

yeti

iTrader: (1)

For stock or mildly modified cars, we offer our RP Standard clutch kit which utilizes high quality, OEM spec components. The RP Standard Clutch kit is better than stock, it can handle up to 10% more power, but is not intended for racing use. You get the clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing and seal, and even a clutch alignment tool; all the parts you’ll need for a complete clutch replacement. This is the kit we’ve been using in our shop for stock or mildly modified, street driven cars with great results.

It is a good deal.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Assuming you are talking about a stock clutch kit....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY...Q5fAccessories

140 shipped.

yeti

iTrader: (1)

now that just confuses me.. how do they manage that? Is it just overstock or just out of spec?

farberio

iTrader: (7)

The seller has been an ebay member since Jul-23-03 and his name specifies that he deals with clutches.
Its 1/28/09 now so he has been on ebay for 6 years 5 months and 5 days. Or roughly 2400 days. He has sold 50125 items, I am going to assume they are all clutches. Thats just shy of 21 clutches a day.

At those numbers you can get by on a slim margin. Roughly 7500 clutches a year at $10 profit a clutch is $70500 a year. Plus, selling that much probably gets him the lowest price point from the manufacturers.

I am just throwing $10 a clutch out there, but thats a pretty small margin for car parts.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Your throwout number would be a 7% selling margin. Not happenin'

His margin is actually closer to 20%. Don't ask me how I know.

Welcome to the Brave New World.

FWIW, I just installed a Centerforce DF clutch on my 90 Vert. I am happy with it.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

I am not surprised to see 20%, but hey, more power too him. As far as I am concerned it saves me money.

I hated the Centerforce DF, but thats just me.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Just curious-why did you had the CFDF?

SpooledupRacing

I have used the CFDF on a Mitsubishi Starion.. I ate it alive.
I used one on a Mistubishi Eclipse FWD and an AWD both destroyed them.
I used one on a Datsun 280Z with turbo swapped etc and its been 4 years no problems.

I never used on on an RX before..

farberio

iTrader: (7)

It came with the car I bought.

I hated it because it had no clutch feel and the pedal was waaay to light. If an ant stepped on the clutch it would fall to the floor.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

OK. I like it because the pedal feel is pretty much OEM light. I don't find that to be a problem, personally. I can feel the engagement just fine. I did rebuild the master, replace the slave and install a SS braided clutch line while I was in there. Maybe that helps the feel? IDK.

I drive my 7 a lot, and in traffic. I don't need a heavy clutch pedal.

Since I am still breaking it in, I have been very gentle. I babied the original clutch for a couple of years because it slipped so easily. I'm pretty sure that it was the original factory clutch.

The real test will be when I let my 16-yo son drive it. He is not so good with a clutch yet, therefore pretty hard on it.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

The stock clutch isnt THAT bad. I had the stock clutch in my stock n/a when I first got it and it could chirp 2nd with 245 wide BFG KDW's on it.

It was a ton easier to DD it than it is with the S/S clutch I got from mazdatrix. Depends on what your personal preference is as to whether you'll like it or not.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Interesting. CFDF seems to work very well in some applications, in others it seems to be problematic.

I bought mine from a member with 1000 miles. He bought a built bridgeport N/A. The CFDF held fine, but I remember he said he switched out the DF disk for a 3-puck sprung disk. Later when he did an engine rebuild, he upgraded the driveline to TII.

One thing I noticed is that the weights were off center by 1/2" when I received it. You could see on the fingers that it had run that way for some time. I have to think that they created some vibration and maybe didn't do an effective job of increasing the clamping pressure with RPM. Found a couple of posts indicating that others had discovered the same issue. Maybe CFDF works well when the weights are in the right place and not so much if they are out of kilter? I re-centered the weights, but I can't verify that they will stay put in the center.

If this starts slipping when I start to beat on it, I might have to try the 3-puck sprung disk.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Not usually, but this one was. It was weak when I bought the car. It was completely worn out when I replaced it last week, rivets were just starting to touch the flywheel, lots of hot-spots on both the flywheel and pressure plate from slipping. Who knows? It might even have been a little oily, since both the tranny front seal and the rear main seal on the eshaft were gushing oil. I really think the clutch was the original factory clutch. 152,000 miles.

I just realized I completely threadjacked. Sorry to the OP and all.

Excedy/Daiken=good. Rotary Performance=excellent vendor.

Back on track.

SpooledupRacing

ALL manufactures have those problems...

I have used MANY clutch brands in my time and well there are only a few I trust.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

I hear you on that. Anytime you go outside the OEM spec, you don't know really how much engineering and how much guesswork went into the design. Or how much manufacturing tolerance is allowed from the third-world factory that produces it.


The CF fingers had obviously slipped off center, or maybe they had never been exactly centered. The install sheet doesn't tell you to check the ring and weights for concentricity. I don't think it was anything to do with the quality of manufacturing, or a design flaw, more that it is a possibility for them to slip. Call it a design weakness, maybe?

There appears to be no mechanism to positively locate the weights and the retaining ring. I centered them up before installing. I have no way to know if they stay in place or run out to the side again. I think I will feel vibrations if they get out of kilter, but who knows?

Maybe I will call Centerforce and ask them.