first and foremost.. i did do a search, but this forum isn't the easiest to search.

1.) whats the specs on the 13b-rew and 13a, and 20b
2.)why do people say doing a 20b swap cost so much? i seen the engine sell for like 4g's...and i'm just guessing the install would be 1-2g's if that...with tuning..
3.)being realistic, and try not to bias... is it well worth it getting a fc and doing a fd swap? b/c i can just do the same thing with a honda. and probably get better power. and less worries bout maintnance/turbo tuning/etc etc. and not to forget the honda would be n/a.

i don't know wtf i'm saying.. you don't hafta reply i'm just venting some stuff in my head...

 

1. Specs like what? power rating? displacement? size?

1a. no such thing as a 13a, only 13b

2. Because obviously you've never SEEN a 20b, or realize how much fabrication is involved in installing one, or how much stuff you have to move around to accomediate how much longer of an engine it is. Not to mention the problem of driving another set of spark plugs and injectors (IOW, can't use stock computer bubs)

3. No, not when you can get close to the same power levels of a 13B-REW, and not have to figure out an entirely new engine mount to install the bloody engine.

and 4. get a honda like all the other lemmings.

PaulC

 

As if you really need to put an REW in? The 13BT will make plenty of power for the average street racer / daily driver. And if not, put an exhaust on and gain 50 HP.

If you really think you need to swap engines to make power, you were born to drive a Honda.

 

That is sooo true. But give him a break, give him a chance to see the light.

 

umm man heres a good saing
The World Goes Round & Round Not Up And Down

a s4/513bt with exhaust and the top mount intercooler front mounted and some more boost woudl out run alot of stuff

mayby the honday migth beat it down the 1/4 by a few tenths but over here in aust the race isnt over till someone has a definate lead and this is where rotaries whoop hole


get a rotor im looking inot a fc even though im 17 ive got a racing mk2 lotus cortina and a nice s1 rx2 which sports a 12a street port (how i bught the car) and the rx2 was such a bargain cost me 200 australian so about 100 ur money

and the 12a streep port is fater than my race car (clasic)
im building a new race car atm gti swift with a stroked engine to 1.6l with 300 duration cams custom made quad throttle bodies plendlum and manifolds etc etc gonna have over 250kw @ flywheel and in a gutted 89 gti itll be a good little car

anyway back to the rotors
um
mods todo to a 13bt include aftermarket computer motec m4 i hear were good casue 13bt only got 2 rotors
front mount the stock intercooler or buy an aftermarket fmic
high flowq the turbo with a decent 3" exhaust and itll scare the pants of ya

 

Ichiban - Man, it took about 4 trips through the translator to make out what you were saying may want to try to write a bit more concise next time.

(No hard feelings, just letting you know that post was hard to read).

 

gotta love them aussies.

 

13B-REW out of an FD3S officially 255hp.
13B (typo?) I'm assuming turbo'd is 182hp for Zenki FC3S and 200hp for Kouki FC3S.&nbsp The 20B officially only does 280ps (about 276hp).


You are vastly underestimating the project.&nbsp Unless you run stock Cosmo ECU, stock harness, stock ignitors/coils, stock auto tranny, you'll need to replace almost all of that with aftermarket components; the only good thing is that the 20B will bolt onto the FC3S transmission with very little modification.&nbsp That much torque is going to smoke the stock clutch, so an aftermarket clutch is in order.&nbsp You'll need to address the custom engine mounts.&nbsp If you're going aftermarket EMS, then there's installing and tuning the whole mess...


I guess you don't read any of the other threads either - there's at least TWO recent threads on this.&nbsp Due to the vastly different engine mounts, the 13B-REW is a major pain-in-the-*** to drop into an FC3S chassis.&nbsp The stock 13B-REW SUX if not rebuilt - go ask the guys in the 3G section if you don't believe me.&nbsp 60k miles on the original seals is about average.&nbsp The twin-turbo system is just too complicated and is a source of a lot of boost related problems - hell, the whole control/emissions/vacuum hose systems are a major pain in the ***.&nbsp A 13BT original to the FC3S can easily push 400hp to the wheels with the right turbo - we're talking $5k in mods that'll smoke the 13B-REW conversion for less cost.


I would recommend you read some of the threads (at least the first two pages worth of crap) if you're going to get serious about this points.&nbsp There is a 20B section specifically for 20B questions.



-Ted

 

heres wot ur looking for
http://www.mazdarotary.net/

everything anyone would like to know

 

as mentioned, if you stay with the stock cosmo 3 rotor ecu (assuming you'll need to re-program it for the USA octane levels), buy pre-fabed motor mounts, and clutch you could keep the cost down.

Most people spend some serious $$$ because they want to put down 450+HP (ie the Fast & Furious Car).

 

if you say buy a honda...and for more power in teh same sentance again im gonna shoot myself in the ***** twice

 

You sir need a swift kick to the nut sack for that comment.

 

bwahaha
fast and the furious i think me and my airwalkscould whoop those cars

 

The 2 things you said in there that were true were:

"less worries bout maintnance/turbo tuning/etc etc. and not to forget the honda would be n/a."

and

"i don't know wtf i'm saying.."



Ok what honda engine would you swap to get 255hp stock? And then what bolt ons could give you an extra 50-75hp with the honda? To get any real power from any honda you need an engine swap, plus forced induction or a fully built engine.