roll cage front uprights
#1
roll cage front uprights
does anyone have any pictures of theses tubes going through the stock dash?
I would like to keep everything on the interior looking stock.
I pulled out the windshield today ( cracked the **** out of it luckily it was already cracked) and took the panel that holds the vin plate off and stuck the tube down through there but that just seemed too far forward.
To bring the tube back it looks like the mount for the dash would be right in the way.
So any pics or tips would be helpful.
Also if i make the bend in the tube follow the A-pillar, it doesn't seem like it is going to come down perpendicular to the floor. Is that ok, kinda doesn't seem right to me?
I would like to keep everything on the interior looking stock.
I pulled out the windshield today ( cracked the **** out of it luckily it was already cracked) and took the panel that holds the vin plate off and stuck the tube down through there but that just seemed too far forward.
To bring the tube back it looks like the mount for the dash would be right in the way.
So any pics or tips would be helpful.
Also if i make the bend in the tube follow the A-pillar, it doesn't seem like it is going to come down perpendicular to the floor. Is that ok, kinda doesn't seem right to me?
#2
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
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You can run the bar below the AC vents if looks and simplicity are your priority. Search for pics of the Autopower bolt-in roll cage. Whatever you do, stay away from deadly S-bends like you see on the ricer cages that are designed only for looks.
Don't copy this S-bar unless the sole purpose of your car is to tow it to car shows:
My roll cage was fabricated by a NASCAR inspector who was working for a shop that specilaized in movie stunt cars. The front hoop is routed where the door-mounted AC vents were. It was built to SCCA IT/EP specs, with the option to go to GT specs if I add bars through the firewall later on. The NASCAR-type side bars and the bar under the dash are optional for SCCA.
The front hoop goes around the dash, not the roof. You need to read the regulations for your intended racing class BEFORE beginning work on your roll cage or you will make a very costly mistake that is not easily fixed. If you are just building the cage for the street or for some silly drift class that has no regulations, I recommend the SCCA specs:
http://cms.scca.com/documents/Club%2...CR/2009GCR.pdf
Don't copy this S-bar unless the sole purpose of your car is to tow it to car shows:
http://cms.scca.com/documents/Club%2...CR/2009GCR.pdf
#3
I'm building it to NHRA spec,
I bought the pipes cut and bent from these guys - http://autoweldchassis.com/rbc.ivnu
Your cage looks excellent, I actually already some pictures of it, I would just like to have my A-pillar bars sit a little further forward.
I bought the pipes cut and bent from these guys - http://autoweldchassis.com/rbc.ivnu
Your cage looks excellent, I actually already some pictures of it, I would just like to have my A-pillar bars sit a little further forward.
#4
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I think the NHRA specs require a larger mounting plate than SCCA.
The A-pillar bars in my car are mounted against the A-pillar, and it is not physically possible to mount them any further forward.
Correction: The bar under the dash is required for SCCA.
Correction: The bar under the dash is required for SCCA.
#6
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NHRA requires a 6"x6" (36 sq inches) pad. SCCA allows up to 144 sq. inches in most classes
The actual pad can mount much further forward but it looks like it lines up with the a pillar nicely. I try to mount mine so that the vertical section coming from the rocker is in line with the door frame.
Depending on the class, it's optional. Showroom Stock, Touring, Improved Touring, it's an optional bar. Don't recall if it's required in Production. Didn't use to be, but they revamped the Prod. rules since I last had to look through them.
Depending on the class, it's optional. Showroom Stock, Touring, Improved Touring, it's an optional bar. Don't recall if it's required in Production. Didn't use to be, but they revamped the Prod. rules since I last had to look through them.
#7
Rx2 > FD
iTrader: (10)
I'm building it to NHRA spec,
I bought the pipes cut and bent from these guys - http://autoweldchassis.com/rbc.ivnu
Your cage looks excellent, I actually already some pictures of it, I would just like to have my A-pillar bars sit a little further forward.
I bought the pipes cut and bent from these guys - http://autoweldchassis.com/rbc.ivnu
Your cage looks excellent, I actually already some pictures of it, I would just like to have my A-pillar bars sit a little further forward.
if you dont mind, how much was it after evrything? (shipping and all that)
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#10
this is what I found
http://www.nhra.org/contacts/tech_faq.html
it talks about the 6in square but it says there needs to be 2 of them one on the top and one on the bottom bolted together.
then it says optionally you can weld a top plate. I assume it is supposed to be a 6in plate as well. I really don't know how I going to fit full 6x6 plates in there? They need to be trimmed.
http://www.nhra.org/contacts/tech_faq.html
it talks about the 6in square but it says there needs to be 2 of them one on the top and one on the bottom bolted together.
then it says optionally you can weld a top plate. I assume it is supposed to be a 6in plate as well. I really don't know how I going to fit full 6x6 plates in there? They need to be trimmed.
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