kamisama12

Hello everyone,

My wife and I are getting a 88 10AE t2, ( my second rx7 her first) It has quiet a bit of modifications done to it already. I have pretty much hit a wall in what i need to do to get it to 300rwhp. First and foremost will be getting her comfortable in the thing (replacing seats, fixing the sunroof, etc) since I will be overseas for a good time. However, in a few months time the upgrades will start that will hopefully get me to that goal.

Here is what the car has regarding engine, exhaust, intake, and Fuel mods

- BNR Stage 2 t04B hybrid turbo
- Street port (i was told it was rather big)
- ported s5 manifold
- HKS SSQV BOV
- racingbeat FCD
- Fuel pump cutoff
- Greddy 720CC secondaries
- Walbro 255
- Hallman Boost controller
- Aftermarket intake ( i have no idea who made it)
- Full 3" Apexi N1 exhaust w/ no cat
----The current owner is running 7lbs of boost atm.

Here is the stuff i came up with
- Apexi turbo timer
- Greddy 3-row R-spec FMIC
- Apexi Power FC + Commander (with the banzai racing FC3S adapter harness)

- Upgrade the Fuel system ( primary and secondary injectors)
-----I'm sorta stuck on the fuel deliver area, I don't know what size injectors and other components i should be looking for. Any help here would be nice.

- Ignition system
-----This is another area im lost on and could use some advice towards what to look for and articles that explain it to me.

- Fluidyne Race Radiator

The order i think i should do things

1st - turbo timer

2nd - radiator and FMIC at the same time

3rd - Stand alone ECU, fuel delivery upgrades, and ignition upgrades. I have this last because i know it will need to be dyno tuned right after everything is installed to create a custom map that will allow me to run 300rwhp


Please tell me what you think about this and help me reach my goal. Thanks!

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

the stock ignition is good enough for your goals. maybe different plugs ??

rewire your fuel pump
i personally dont think a turbo timer is needed. just drive easy after hard runs before shutting the car off or let it idle. JUST my opinion.
replace fuel pulsation dampner!!! or banjo bolt....always a good debate!!


with a quick glance looks like youll be fine.
im not sure of the injector combo though?

phoenix7

skip the turbo timer. Just drive like a grandma 2-3 miles before you get home so the turbo cools.

Upgrade the primaries ( i was told By BNR that 720's all around was all Ineeded for my Stage 2)

Ignition? if you go with a standalone you can mess with the timing i think but you can always go with the CDI kit from MSD or the rotary pro-pack.

I think you're on the right track.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

actually, i think the Rtek 2.0 (if the harness is in good shape) would be good enough for your power goals. save you a few pennies!!

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

7 lbs. boost? Get yourself an AFC and a wideband 02 setup and tune that thing up so that you can really pump some psi!

phoenix7

at you bastards that can get the Rtek. I stopped waiting for the S5 versions to come out.

Yes and no. Turn the boost up ONLY after you're sure you're car is running right. I'd stick with 7 PSi for now (assuming the original owner tuned it to 7 psi.) If you randomly turn up the boost without tuning the fuel you'll end up with a dead motor.

I'd go standalone and wideband if you can afford it otherwise go with any Fuel controller.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

good things come to those who wait!!!

kamisama12

I thought about getting the SAFC neo, however i knew that it would still need to be tuned and find a good wideband O2 setup ( which i have no idea about ), If you can recommend one to me that would be great. I debated the piggy backing vs stand alone. I'm not really hurting for money, i have a job that pays really well and i figured i would like to have the stand alone since it seems like a better long term solution. Seems like it is more flexible should i want to push past 300rwhp.

Thanks for all your input everyone, keep it coming.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

go full standalone then. this way you can get bigger injectors and if and when you get power hungry (again) you will have the injectors.

idsigloo

Get stand alone, then fmic and tune it for 360rwhp at 15psi, making full boost at 4k rpms in 4th gear. anything else?

DriftingB26RX7

iTrader: (4)

yeah just going big turbo gives you more then 300. I have Streetported jdm 13bt stock trubo stock tmic hks intake hks 3in turbo back 680 primary's. I'm just under 300 so that also gives you a gauge I know theres a few thing I can do to get 300 with out going bigger turbo or standalone.

iceblue

Your setup is already making 300rwhp so why do anything?

Next. The fuel supply is fine the pump is good always run a PD just replace it with a new one. Going with some 920cc secondary s instead will give you alot more head room and safe tuning attribute. Turbo timers are a waste of 100$. Ignition is more then plenty.

Only thing I would recommend on the motor is running a mega squirt EMS with that setup and run a FMIC. I like to always have these things in a car; wide band, boost gauge, water temp. You can upgrade the rad if its is needed but why if it is not? Try improving the ducting this helps the most.

kamisama12

the guy never dyno'd it and said he thought it was making about 260ish to the ground.

My big concern is the heat im going to create from that setup, thats why i was looking at a better radiator. I figured it couldn't hurt to go ahead and take care of it. Thanks once again for all the input.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Hence the recommendation for an AFC... As for a wideband I'm using a PLX m500, it's great, works with just about any standalone, and using the typical Bosch wideband 02 sensor.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Yea, get a nice aftermarket rad. and a FMIC fo sho.

DriftingB26RX7

iTrader: (4)

KOYO HANDS DOWN

dial8

iTrader: (4)

Haha, thats why I'm S4 till the day I die