2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
Sponsored by:

Rims for auto crossing & track (question)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-03-04, 02:44 PM
  #26  
MPM
Senior Member

 
MPM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Alabama just east of B'ham
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
dreamshadow - You need to decide what class you want to run in and then make your decisions based upon the rules. Get a rule book first and attend some local autocrosses. Talk to some of the experienced drivers. Most of them are willing to help with advice.
Old 05-03-04, 03:09 PM
  #27  
Lives on the Forum

 
RETed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: n
Posts: 26,664
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes on 15 Posts
Originally posted by Travis R
RETed, I don't think tire temp will be a problem. He probably hasn't done serious weight reduction. And a 225 isn't all that wide in the grand scheme of things.
Ambient temps will probably play a bigger role.
Any change in rim diameter or width will bump you out of stock. You are allowed to change the offset by 1/4" in either direction though.
I haven't mess with autocross set-up's in a while since I dumped my CRX YEARS ago...

For the most part, running 225/50/16 tires should not be a problem.

You could run into a problem getting the tires hot enough if your course is very short (30 seconds or so) with very cold ambients.

The tire pyrometer will definitely confirm if the tires are getting up to temp.

The FC chassis can be dropped down to 2700# range with driver, and this might not heat up the 225's on a very short course with low ambients (under 60F)...


-Ted
Old 05-03-04, 05:19 PM
  #28  
Haven't we ALL heard this

 
Wankel7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3,948
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I thought the reason that you look at tire temps is for the inner, middle, and outer portion to make sure that your suspension is set up right?

JAmes
Old 05-03-04, 07:45 PM
  #29  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
dreamnshadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
hey guys, i got the vert rims now. i have 205/50/15's on it, does that still count for stock size? or am i in a different class now? i havent autocrossed yet, or been able to drive my fc too much too, i'm used to cornering with fwd's too...=\ . well, once i get my alignment done, then i'll be driving it more. hey was does car weight have to do with tire temp? shouldnt the change in temp of tires affect the car regardless of weight?
Old 05-03-04, 08:03 PM
  #30  
trying to build a racecar

 
Travis R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Austin, Tx.
Posts: 580
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Tire dimensions don't matter. It's the rim dimensions. If your car originally came with 14x6 then anything other than 14x6 will bump you out of stock (assuming other mods haven't done that already).
Part of the tire heating is from the tread/sidewall deflection... which is related to the weight of your vehicle. If your tire is too wide, and your car too light it will take a long time for the tire to get up to temp. Conversely, if your car is heavy, and the tire too narrow the tire will become over heated, the grip will fall off, and you'll start tearing the tire up.
I don't think a mostly stock FC is going to be anywhere near the "too light" end of the spectrum on normal tires. RETed is right about ambient temps being a factor though.
I'm building an FC to be 1900lbs and it will run on a 10" wide tire and I'm not worried about the tires getting up to temp... but then again I'm in Texas. I've measured surface temps @ 140F in July.
Old 05-03-04, 08:25 PM
  #31  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
dreamnshadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
ooooh, ic....
hey another question, my car is lowered, so i have too much camber, i can see it. well, i went to a shop today, and they said they only align to factory spec. i wanted to have .4 in the front and .2 in the back..... what is factory spec? is it much different? will it be bad with a lowered car? and i heard factory spec had a lot of understeer, which is what i want to get rid of of course...
Old 05-03-04, 08:51 PM
  #32  
Full Member

 
lacycw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Delphi, IN
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Unless you have camber plates up front and an adjustable camber rod in the rear, you cannont adjust the camber on your car. The stock suspension only had adjustments for toe both in the front and rear.

- Cooper Lacy
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
IB Cristina
West RX-7 Forum
0
08-20-15 05:46 PM
Feffman
Racing Kills Lounge
0
08-15-15 06:19 AM



Quick Reply: Rims for auto crossing & track (question)



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:02 PM.