Right rear is making a horrible thumping noise (with video)
#26
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If you have a bad bearing, you will want to replace it asap... If not it could result in welding the bearing to the spindle and you will have bigger problems... That may be why the problem seems to have gone away... Again... I would tear it completely down and go through it peice by peice till you find a problem... You dont want your wheel falling off... Especially at a high speed... And yes... Higher speeds build more centrifical force... At 70 you will barely notice a bad bearing if you notice it at all in some cases...
#27
If you have a bad bearing, you will want to replace it asap... If not it could result in welding the bearing to the spindle and you will have bigger problems... That may be why the problem seems to have gone away... Again... I would tear it completely down and go through it peice by peice till you find a problem... You dont want your wheel falling off... Especially at a high speed... And yes... Higher speeds build more centrifical force... At 70 you will barely notice a bad bearing if you notice it at all in some cases...
I'm getting some conflicting results.
#28
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If you have a bad bearing, you will want to replace it asap... If not it could result in welding the bearing to the spindle and you will have bigger problems... That may be why the problem seems to have gone away... Again... I would tear it completely down and go through it peice by peice till you find a problem... You dont want your wheel falling off... Especially at a high speed... And yes... Higher speeds build more centrifical force... At 70 you will barely notice a bad bearing if you notice it at all in some cases...
THAT NOISE IS NOT THE BEARING!!!!
a) Even if the bearing failed, the wheel could not come off. If you've taken a rear bearing out in one of these cars you would see why.
b) If a bearing was the problem, why does it only happen during braking, light throttle, or in-gear-decel?
If not it could result in welding the bearing to the spindle and you will have bigger problems
#29
THAT NOISE IS NOT THE BEARING!!!!
a) Even if the bearing failed, the wheel could not come off. If you've taken a rear bearing out in one of these cars you would see why.
b) If a bearing was the problem, why does it only happen during braking, light throttle, or in-gear-decel?
c) where is the spindle in the rear end of the FC?
a) Even if the bearing failed, the wheel could not come off. If you've taken a rear bearing out in one of these cars you would see why.
b) If a bearing was the problem, why does it only happen during braking, light throttle, or in-gear-decel?
c) where is the spindle in the rear end of the FC?
Well it's good to know my wheel isn't going to fly off on the interstate.
#30
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1. I explained why it only does it during braking and low speeds... It is a lack of centrifical force...
2. I cant force you to check it... I can only tell you what I have seen when they go bad... I have seen a wheel come off of the car... I have personally help chisel and cut the bearing out because they get so hot it welds them in place... Again... Make your own decision on whether to pull the back wheel(s) and everything from that to the axle off... It could be potentially dangerous if not deadly... Even if it's not a bearing...
2. I cant force you to check it... I can only tell you what I have seen when they go bad... I have seen a wheel come off of the car... I have personally help chisel and cut the bearing out because they get so hot it welds them in place... Again... Make your own decision on whether to pull the back wheel(s) and everything from that to the axle off... It could be potentially dangerous if not deadly... Even if it's not a bearing...
#31
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There is no spindle on the REAR of the FC...so why do you tell him to take it down to the spindle?
If the bearing IS actually bad, how did it go that bad from changing rear brake pads? Did you watch the video? It sounds like there's a body wrapped around the axle for cryin' out loud. A bad wheel bearing would have to have been driven on for a million miles to sound like that!!
Not to mention if the rear wheel bearing was that torn up, why is there not even so much as a hum coming from it while he's cruising? It should be HOWLING at speed. Centrifugal force or not.
If you've seen a car's wheel fall off due to a seized bearing, then you've also witnessed what can happen when someone doesn't install it correctly. That (I'm going to talk in reference to the front since that seems to be what you're talking about here) nut with the castleated cover that has the cotter pin in it is there for a few purposes. One of which being preventing the above scenario. This was either a) missing or b) not installed properly.
Originally Posted by C.A.R.
2. I cant force you to check it... I can only tell you what I have seen when they go bad... I have seen a wheel come off of the car... I have personally help chisel and cut the bearing out because they get so hot it welds them in place
Also, since you seem to be the resident wheel bearing expert, why are you telling him to check them by removing EVERYTHING from the wheel to the axle? You simply jack the vehicle up, grab the top and bottom of the tire, press in and out, and feel for play. And even a large amount of play in the bearing wouldn't cause the noise he's hearing now.
Last edited by classicauto; 05-29-07 at 03:00 PM. Reason: forgot a couple things
#32
Also, since you seem to be the resident wheel bearing expert, why are you telling him to check them by removing EVERYTHING from the wheel to the axle? You simply jack the vehicle up, grab the top and bottom of the tire, press in and out, and feel for play. And even a large amount of play in the bearing wouldn't cause the noise he's hearing now.
#33
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Again... I would tear it completely down and go through it peice by peice till you find a problem... You dont want your wheel falling off... Especially at a high speed... And yes... Higher speeds build more centrifical force... At 70 you will barely notice a bad bearing if you notice it at all in some cases...
You obviously missed this... This is why I told him to tear it down... To look for the problem... I beleive it MAY be a bad bearing... Even if you dont believe it is... Oh well.. We will have to agree to disagree... No one else has figured out whats wrong so the only other option is to tear it down till you find the problem...
Try looking for key words... If you did this you would know that I never made a definate diagnosis on the car in question... I only gave suggestions, which is what this forum is here for, incase you didn't notice in your 4000+ posts of critisizing others that are trying to help when offering little or none yourself...
I hope My5ABaby gets his problem fixed but I am done with this thread... I made my suggestions... I am not the only on or the first to suggest the wheel bearing... And it was not my only suggestion... It is just the one I believe the strongest...
classicauto... If you have a problem with me personally please PM me since you are the one who does not want to lead people searching for answers in the wrong direction...
#35
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You might think its because I don't "believe" its not a bearing. Its that my years in industry tell me that noise you hear in the video can in no way shape or form be produced by a wheel bearing. At least in the circumstances the video's are made in. Not......A.........Chance. Not "oh I might believe".
Thats not the only other option. And chances are you'll tear it down and find nothing. My5Ababy has been around a while and I'm fairly certain that a major bo-bo would be caught. There's a combination of things going on here and if I weren't having to spend so much time explaining why its NOT a wheel bearing to the people who have nothing better to suggest, I *may* be able to offer him some more help.
There's nothing wrong with suggestions, nothing at all.
Very funny. But I doubt an english major would be able to tell a spindle from an axle anyway. I was trying to illustrate the accuracy of your prediction by comparing it to the accuracy of the process you outline.
None can make one on the internet. But its one thing to have an entirely WRONG diagnosis, and a fairly possible guesstimate.
Yeah I offered no help at all and spent my entire time on the forum criticizing. Thats why I've just had to make three posts explaining to anyone viewing this thread that if they have a similar noise NOT to bother spending the money on rear wheel bearings. Thats very evil of me, I should be banned
Certainly not. You're the latest sheep to echo what several other clueless, but hopeful, people threw out as a suggestion.
But as an industry professional I can without any doubt assure you its not a wheelbearing. So why would I in good concience let the OP think it is? Why would I let misinformation be tossed around when I can easily de-bunk it?
My5Ababy stated just before your post that he inadvertently checked the wheel bearing anyways, so now you KNOW its not the problem. Why bother aggreing to disagree when the OP already showed you that you're wrong?
I have no problem with you. I have a problem with insistent, incorrect, presumptions that lead people astray. Thats the reason the internet is un-reliable for technical info......
__________________________________________________ ____________
ANYWAYS.
Reading back over this:
Which bolt was loose?
And the caliper that had a bit of play....I would almost suspect that its part of the problem. Did they give you a tough time coming off at all? Or did they easily remove when the bolt was undone?
There's nothing wrong with suggestions, nothing at all.
Certainly not. You're the latest sheep to echo what several other clueless, but hopeful, people threw out as a suggestion.
But as an industry professional I can without any doubt assure you its not a wheelbearing. So why would I in good concience let the OP think it is? Why would I let misinformation be tossed around when I can easily de-bunk it?
My5Ababy stated just before your post that he inadvertently checked the wheel bearing anyways, so now you KNOW its not the problem. Why bother aggreing to disagree when the OP already showed you that you're wrong?
__________________________________________________ ____________
ANYWAYS.
Reading back over this:
Originally Posted by My5Ababy
I took off both wheels and looked for things obviously wrong. I found one bolt that didn't seem to be tightened enough (I couldn't turn it by hand but could with a wrench). After putting everything back on the noise was gone when I took it for a quick drive. Hopefully it wil stay gone...
And the caliper that had a bit of play....I would almost suspect that its part of the problem. Did they give you a tough time coming off at all? Or did they easily remove when the bolt was undone?
#36
I think it was this one. The picture is from the drivers side, but the bolt in question is on the passenger.
It seemed to come off pretty easy. In the below picture I took out the bottom bolt, rotated the caliper up, slid it off and looked at it. Everything seemed to be in order so I put it back on.
This is from the drivers side (where my girlfriend said the noise was coming from) and points to what part had play in it.
This is from the drivers side (where my girlfriend said the noise was coming from) and points to what part had play in it.
#37
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OK, I would try this:
Put the car on stands securely. Get it and start it up, put it in first gear and easily let the clutch out. Once the wheels are turning, apply the brakes with whatever pressure you're using to make the noise happen or apply whatever throttle you applied to make it happen.
****, should mention you'll want another person there to watch
*If* it happens in this scenario (when there's no weight on the rear) you're more then likely looking at a brake problem of some sort. Perhaps. If it will make the noise with this test I would then try it again, with the wheel off, to see if you can actually notice anything binding/bouncing etc.
But this will allow a couple things. One of which is pinpointing the side the noise is coming from, the other is seeing if the severity changes without load on the suspension.
Give that a try and see what you find.
Put the car on stands securely. Get it and start it up, put it in first gear and easily let the clutch out. Once the wheels are turning, apply the brakes with whatever pressure you're using to make the noise happen or apply whatever throttle you applied to make it happen.
****, should mention you'll want another person there to watch
*If* it happens in this scenario (when there's no weight on the rear) you're more then likely looking at a brake problem of some sort. Perhaps. If it will make the noise with this test I would then try it again, with the wheel off, to see if you can actually notice anything binding/bouncing etc.
But this will allow a couple things. One of which is pinpointing the side the noise is coming from, the other is seeing if the severity changes without load on the suspension.
Give that a try and see what you find.
#39
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I know 1996 Plymoth Breeze has that problem really bad. go over a bump and a huge knock happens, and I don't even know whats wrong with it. It seems your knock happens under different circumstances, though.
#41
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So, back from the dead, any solutions to this?? Mine is doing the EXACT same thing-- And only when off the throttle, whether in or out of gear.
Have:
within the past 10k miles/1 year:
-New mazda comp. diff mount
-new rear rotors
-new pads
-energy suspension bushing kit
-KYB Adjustable shocks
-Tanabe 210 lowering springs
Any replies will be greatly appreciated!
Have:
within the past 10k miles/1 year:
-New mazda comp. diff mount
-new rear rotors
-new pads
-energy suspension bushing kit
-KYB Adjustable shocks
-Tanabe 210 lowering springs
Any replies will be greatly appreciated!
#42
Your problem is a wheel bearing. I'm going to be replacing mine again. Its the bearing allowing the rotor (which sounds warped) to hit the pads. If you have a press... its easy, if not you're going to be hating your car.
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