anybody done this... im thinking about it when i pull my motor in a few weeks, one thing somebody mentioned is its sprayed on thick so i might have probs fitting stuff back into the bay.... plus anybody have pics of this... or just their motor in a flat black painted bay so i could see exactly how it looks

just the durabilty and cleaness of it sounds pleasing and i would do it for a few hundred bucks

thanks
christopher

 

Have not done this but only isues I see are. Anything that bolts to the engin bay will have relocating clearence issues this being bolting it down and grounding issues you will have to run grouds to evrything as the frame will no longer be as esaly accessable. As motor fitment goes no probs there. Good news is easy cleaning :-) and a smooth look.

 

wow im glad you mentioned that... i forgot how so many things are grounded to the chassis just by being bolted down i.e the trailing ignitors and such... thanks for the good tip man

christopher

i might just go with a good flat black or something.. i havent decided.. i want something that will stand out well and look good plus clean easy

 

for like 50 bucks you can get this stuff just like rhino in a spray can. the cans are like $6.00 each so for $50.00 you could do your whole engine bay cause i think it costed me that to do the undercarriage of my 7 its cheaper then going to the dealer and it comes out thick but not as thick as if the dealer did it. i think it was dup-color or how ever you spell it good stuff you should try it out . cause i thought bought useing it in replace of my carpet,. just a head up on saving some money plus you can get it at walmart ,autozone ,etc.

 

Too heavy...

 

to heavy? damn cause im moving soon were it snows and i want some under protection fro my 7

 

I'd be worried about it holding up to the heat, but I believe people have done it before. You may wish to search.

a baked Urethan paint (like the factory does) is a little more durable than a spray on plastic coating

 

I've done the Dupli-color Truck Bed Liner underneath a couple of 1st gens I've redone. It works quite well. I do a base coat of epoxy first. Q-tips work great for bolt holes, so you don't have to go back and retap all of them.

The first pic is the finished job, the second pic is of underbody, after epoxy and seam sealing, and masked off, prior to the liner application. The white spots are the Q-tips sticking out of the bolt holes. These are 2 different cars.

 

i used that trunk paint in the engine bay of my 64' dodge dart......came out great, been there for like 8 years now and still holding strong...... (its that grey, black and white spackle paint)....... i dont see why it wouldnt work............ the actual rhino liners are alot stronger than rattle can paints...... and im pretty sure heat wont be an issue... the manifolds on the dodges v8 are only like 1 1/2" from the fender...and the paint held fine (and its not even high temp paint)

 

Holy ****, the underside of that car is very nice. I wish mine looked like that without it's rusting floorpans

 

wow very nice man

what i am mostly worried about with rattle can jobs is if you drop something onto it (wrench or a part or something) is it scrapes off easily or at least easier than the durable stuff truckbed lining is made out of.... thats why i want something strong and something a pressure washer wont flake off

thanks for the tips and man those pics are awesome

christopher

 

how could someone go about making those frame rails so straight and perfect? Alot of cars I see have been lifted wrong therefore damaging or bending those 'rails'. not that i would actually spend alot of money on that, just curious.