Wow, that's real nice, love white FC's! have you conciddered cutting away the original bumper grill things? or maybe blacking them?

Riz.

i've given both some thought. but without a front mount it would be to open if i cut it out. and the car needs paint badly, so blacking the grill out is kinda pointless at this time.

one thing i found out today that really pissed me off was after attempting to put the hood on for the first time since it was removed months ago. that i never swapped out the hood latch. and since it usually pulls in the opposite direction to release the hood. if, i close my hood... its not going to open again.

leaves me with two options.

1. try and find the JDM hood latch. damn near impossible. and if i do, everytime i have needed som miscelanious RHD part, its WAY over priced.

2. hood pins...ugh, not my style.

That is insane dedication.

It really shows.

Shit looks great.

john ny

although these style arnt that bad...

http://www.3sx.com/store/catalog/hoo...8-0981-500.jpg

http://gt-rr.com/images/product_imag...37b5_W1200.jpg

i noticed i never added pics of when i put my exhaust on....

the set up is, a 2.5" downpipe that came with the swap. and a 3 inch strait back with no resonator or cat. and im using a 3 inch Hushpower muffler. I did a lot of research before i chose this muffler. I would reccomend to to EVERYONE!!! look it up on Jegs...

I had a 2.5 inch exhaust with a resonator and asome 2.5 inch muffler on and old TII i had. i then switche to a 3inch downpipe and same exact 3 inch exhaust and muffler with no cat or resonator. even with all the extra flow the car got quieter and much deeper sounding. i dont think these mufflers can be beat for street use... and they look dope!

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...wermuffler.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...ermufflerb.jpg

very cool keep it up

i have done a lot more to it recently. finally wired in the JDM fogs. re wired the fuwl pump and a few other things to get better direct power without splitting voltage to 2-3 things. a lot more engine bay clean up replacing almost all the rubber hoses with steel braided line. and various misc. stuff here and there...

heres a few shots with the hood on. car just needs a few more things (RE mirrors, pull fenders slightly, sunroof) and i can start getting it ready for paint.

(im no photographer and the lighting sucks. also i never edit pics, so these are as is unedited)

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...D/S5000001.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...D/S5000002.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...D/S5000003.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...D/S5000004.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...D/S5000005.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...D/S5000006.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...D/S5000007.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...D/S5000008.jpg

I dont know why the rear sits so high. the springs are Tanabe GF210. and with 18 inch rims, it should be just about rubbing. i would love to find someone selling a set of coilovers for the rear so i can set it just right...

Nice ride :)

What did you end up doing for the hood? My friend has a coat hanger on his that he just reaches underneath and pulls down to pop the hood.

I messed with it enough to where it works fine now. I have to slam the hood hard for it to close. but thats no biggie...

I been meaning to update with new pics. engine bay is MUCH cleaner with a few nice touches. I'll be putting it on the dyno soon to see what it does. It feels stronger than any stockish TII i have ever had/been in...

Wow man... That is really some great work! Extremely nice.

Nice swap! Major props!

Interested in your plans for the sunroof....I'd like to ditch all the heft of the assembly as well, but i'm concerned about sealing if its not welded in, and I don't weld so.....

right now im unsure about the sunroof situation...

my choices:

1. stock sunroof and assebly
* easiest way and will be able to open and close. but only manually. but will also add back all the unwanted weight. plus i lose head room with the thick track system.

2. get just the panel and weld it in.
* not so hard to do. will not gain much weight at all, especially if i gut some of the metal in it. but obviously i lose the option of ever having an open roof.

3. get fiberglass/CF/kevlar panel and make it easy to bolt in/out without the track system. kinda like T-tops.
* definitly the light weight way to go. still have the option of removing it easily if i wanna catch some sun. but cost is MUCH more.


im still very much endecided. im leaning towards welding in the panel. cheap, easy, and i know it wil NEVER leak... unlike every other sun roof i have ever had.

Quality sen2two.... fuckin Quality..

i didnt read through every post . how much did it cost you to do the RHD conversion

^the front clip was 2400 shipped. it goes up from there, but not by much...

Wow, I just read through everything and you've got an awesome car. Good job with all the work, I'll be happy if my FC's winter/ spring revamp will be half as good as yours. You've also inspired me to get spacers for my puny wheels :biggrin: Awesome job.

Yea, I've got a stock assembly on the way, cuz I cant stand leaks, but I would ideally like a more lightweight option.

To weld it properly wouldn't you have to remove the seals around the roof, and then there would be like a .5-1" gap between the panel and the edge of roof. Would it be sound/safe/easy to weld in some filler, or would you need to make a larger replacement panel on an english wheel or something?

I'm fond of option 3; couldn't that be done with the stock panel (albeit heavier than CF but still lighter than the whole stock assembly. The question I have about that is how do you make sure it doesn't leak? My panel is closed, but I still have leaks because the tracks for the assembly are rusted through. This makes it seem like the panel seals by themselves are not sufficient to keep out water, and if that's the case, "bolting in" a panel (CF or otherwise) won't do too much.

the gap isnt that big to weld in. and if you have some skills, its not all that hard, just takes time. theres other tricks and methods to filling gaps where structual integrity isnt a worry.

option number 3 kinda creates a problem. but an easy one to fix, maybe. The sunroof panel and rubber around never really stopped water from coming in. Mazda knew this. If you look at your assembly, theres places for water to chanel through and run down hoses behind the a-pillars.

but im pretty sure if i replaced the stock seal with something thicker, this problem could be fixed. i'll be checking home depot for ideas...

I see a problem with the third option.

Any method you devise that will seal the sunroof well is going to be awkward/inconvenient to remove, which means you'll hardly use it...so why have it at all?

touche'...

I'm getting closer and closer to just taking a trip to O-town and having Sen2two just weld that crap shut :lol:

I'll roll w/ the stock assembly at least till its time for paint, then its decision time...

wow awesome job you made this swap look effortless

I have all the other pics that would make it seem a lot less effortless...lol

the big things i posted pics of is the easy part. It's all the miniscule things that will drive you crazy for this swap.

I have that same wing but the tips are too close together on mine so the hatch would not open if it were installed, otherwise it would be on the car...

looks great tho man good work. I need your welding skills haha

same thing here... I had to force its fitment. Kinda hard to do it by yourself, but if you get creative, its not that bad.

Haha doesnt every body ( slam their hood hard) anyways guess what man i just found out that we both go to mft haha i saw ur car today in real life which was pretty sick cuz id seen it on the forums but never actually thought id see it in real life specially so near to where i live. I was trying to find you because my friend was actually the one who came up to me and was like" dude come with me right now , theres a rhd fc in the parking lot with a mazdaspeed wing" and i was like bullshitt .so i went with him and saw ur car and we tried to find who u wer so my friend and i could meet u and we asked almost every welder but they just said that they didnt know who the car belonged too. But anyways im in the auto technician class and i drive the marroon/
burgundy fc ( not as sick as ur but its still an fc haha) but yea man hope we meet .

I was going to just chop the tips off and re-glass them... but now that i know you had the same problem and got it to work i will dive in and do it lol good stuff.

Ground Control makes a coilover kit that is pretty sweet.. its waaay cheaper than a full coilover setup. i have them on my car with KYB AGX shocks and i love them. the kit got me the stance i wanted, and its super stiff.

i had the same problem with the tien "lowering" springs i previously ran.

just my .02

Yeah.... the instructor told me someone was "drooling" over my car. lol, did you notice my new "glass sunroof"... I havnt posted a pic of it cuase its so ghetto. I cut a piece of lexan and drilled it to my roof. and sealed it with clear window sealer. lmao... looks mad shitty. But it keeps the rain out for now. It looks cool if im driving by and you cant notice how crappy i did it. It was alast minute idea the night before school started when it was POORING. better than raingin in the car...


I use to be in welding, but about 8-9 months ago i finished. I am now in machining.

You come to the CFL Rotaries meets? Some cool people and cooler cars. Atleast 2 meets a month in the Kissimmee/Orlando area.

I clicked on the thread with a shitty attitude as i mostly dont like rhd swap or the idea of driving an rhd car in the us. (fast food, passing semi's.....etc......)

But the caliber of the work and build was high so i approve.

I love the fuel cell and in recent thought i believe every tuned n/a or turbo rotary can benefit HIGHLY from running aux injection.

Stock ports, heavy port work, stock boost to 35+ psi..... Just run a water meth/kit guys. So much cheaper than popping an engine or running race gas.


Get us a sound clip of that muffler!

Haha yeah i saw the sunroof. I actually thought that it looked tite and profesional in a way. Like something a drag car would have. But like u said at least it keeps the rain out. So do u plan to get a new sunroof assembly later on from like a junk yard or some parts car from craigslist or something. But nahh ive herd of the meetings for the longest but ive never had the chance to go and i now just finally got my car running reliable , so now i can drive my fc without worrying about it flooding everytime i go somewhere. But yeah i might drive my car on friday so let me know if anything. My name is sebastian aka s.a.

update!!!

So posted all the pics and info i believe in this thread about my AI set-up. But one thing i didnt take into account is that im using that stock turbo. And what does the stock turbo do when you get close to the redline? thats right, boost steadily drops. not good when im injecting 500cc of 50/50 going with the air instead of against it. I was breaking up after 6k rpm. So the last 1k rpm i couldnt use. Im sure it was because of the boost falling off and the 50/50 mix not atomizing and flooding the engine. So i re-thought my AI set-up a little... next post with pics and info.

So instead of one large 500cc injector. I opted for two smaller injectors in hope of better atomization. (The smaller the injector, the finer the mist) I put one injector in the same location as i had the 500cc. But replaced it with a 180cc injector. Then T'ed off the line and added a 250cc injector at the exact opposite end of the intercooler. This larger one is injecting against the air stream helping it to atomize even further. So with a very small 180 injecting with the air, and a 250 injecting against it, im sure this set-up wil work MUCH better.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...Iinjection.jpg


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...injectionc.jpg


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...injectionb.jpg


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...injectiond.jpg


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...injectione.jpg

And just because... heres a few shots of my ghetto ass roof.


Why i like it, even though its ghetto...
-only cost me 15 bucksand 20 minutes.
-It's lighter than any fiberglass/carbon fiber sunroof out there.
-I have MUCH more head room.
-it does not leak like most rx7 sunroofs
-and its cool to have a completely clear roof!

Im thinking i will re-do-it with more attention to detail. This was a last minute thing to make it to school the next day. And the forecast said heavy rain. So if i actually try and make it look decent. Im sure it could be pretty cool.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k.../Lexanroof.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...Lexanroofb.jpg

Oh one more thing... For all those TII guys that have lumpy, bad, high idles and cant figure it out. Theres one thing that most people forget about. I even did it myself until i remembered...

Remember that 2nd gens are a MAF system. so any leak after the MAF is BAD! what does a BOV do at boost? stay shut. What does it do at vacuum? vent air! So if you dont have it recurculated, than you have a HUGE vacuum leak. The size of the BOV exit to be exact. So do yourself and your car a favor and recurculate it to post-MAF and pre-Turbo. heres mine...

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...ecurculate.jpg

Bro whos black fc is that. And ima bring my car tomorow and ill get there pretty early so we can meet and wat not. Cuz i know u met my other friend josue today haha

The black one is mine also. I usually get there a little early.

Wat do u do for a living like wats ur job man.

Well, i just quit my job last week to go to school full time. so i just got hired by my couch...lol

But i get the GI Bill wich is pretty nice. And do side work for extra cash. Welding, fab, motor builds, porting, ect...

You can also run to a pool supply place and get a big check valve slow87turbo did this with his and worked fine, but it did sound odd at mid boost as the flap in the valve would fly open then slam shut rapidly.

Nice. Yo bro so u think that its better for me to just take the thermostat of then to just put in a new one ?

sure. thermostats are cheap. are you sure it bad though? you can PM me for this stuff...

Thats the thing i dont know how u can check it. I just took it of yesterday and i did what u told me to put silicone on and run the car without it but i took the car to rockys arcade and from my house to there is like 15 miles away and the car didnt even come close to warming up it was like half of the half mark of the regular temp. So i dont know how u can tell if it works or not. I mean my car has never overheated or anything. My teacher just told me that it wasnt opening wen the car warmed up but iam beginning to think that he was wrong cuz the reason he said that it wasnt working was because the radiator hose was really stiff and warm but even when i took the thermostat of and ran the car like that. The hose felt the same to me and i mean a new one is only 10 bucks and an extra 2 for the gasket.

Btw the way what do u mean " PM you"

So I finally fixed the exhaust leak i been fighting. The motor came with a 2.5" downpipe. But after I checking everything possible, i finally realized the downpipe flange was slightly warped. and enough to make 80% of where it bolts to the turbo leak. So i made a new one today. I am very happy with the design of it.

I wanted to get maximum performance out of it if i was going to be spending the time making it. So what i came up with is this.


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...D/S5000023.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...D/S5000024.jpg



The reason I used the expansion is I believe it will create faster spool and more power. Think of it like this. If you have a hose and the water is rushing out fast the speed (velocity) of the water will slow when it enters a larger hose. Same thing with gases. The inside diameter of the begining of the downpipe is the same as the exit of the turbo. Keeping velocity up letting the turbo spool faster. then gradually expands into the 3" piping the rest of the way back. similar to scavanging... Also you will notice my downpipe has less abrupt bends than any other downpipe i have seen. this took some creativity to do, but came out nice i think. Plus its a lot easier when i dont have to bolt up to the stock exhuast location. Since i made that also. I didnt take any pics after it was all welded up, i was in a hurry to get it done. Its also heat wrapped to just before the axles... Even sounds much better now.

edit: i forgot to add. It wound up being about 7 inches shorter than these pics in the long area.



Heres a picture of what i used to make the exspansion part. I just measured where it matched the other pipes and cut it. nice and smooth transition.


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...D/S5000022.jpg

Yo man. I neee to ask u for a favor. You said that u might of had and extra stock regulator somewhere. Cuz i think i might need it fast. Im getting 9 mpg with my moms corolla so if u can be kind enough and let me know if u have it or not. Thanks

Give him a Personal Massage...

Riz.