Rev Counter system
Rev Counter system
So how the rev counter in our lovely cars work?
What i assume is its electrical.
I ask because mine keeps dropping off to zero, turn the ignition off and on then its back reading correctly again.
Only if i rev quickly it seems to dies again. Anyone had this problem? any suggestions?
I should mention that i dont think the redline buzzer works either while the revs reads zero.
What i assume is its electrical.
I ask because mine keeps dropping off to zero, turn the ignition off and on then its back reading correctly again.
Only if i rev quickly it seems to dies again. Anyone had this problem? any suggestions?
I should mention that i dont think the redline buzzer works either while the revs reads zero.
Coil pack you say
So i take it thats where the rev counter gets the signal.
So killing the ignition, why does that cure the problem until the engine is rev'd high again?
Is the trailing side the important side? what i means is i thought one set of coils and spark plugs did most of the work.
Might think about looking around the scrap yards for dead heros
So killing the ignition, why does that cure the problem until the engine is rev'd high again?
Is the trailing side the important side? what i means is i thought one set of coils and spark plugs did most of the work.
Might think about looking around the scrap yards for dead heros
Yes, the tach gets its signal directly from the trailing coil pack.
Usually, this is the culprit if it's problems with the tach getting all screwy.
I cannot tell you exactly why it's dying at high RPM's, but I suspect the electronics is getting hotter at higher RPM's to kill itself.
Actually, the leadings are more important.
The engine will run just fine without the trailings.
-Ted
Usually, this is the culprit if it's problems with the tach getting all screwy.
I cannot tell you exactly why it's dying at high RPM's, but I suspect the electronics is getting hotter at higher RPM's to kill itself.
Actually, the leadings are more important.
The engine will run just fine without the trailings.
-Ted
Actually, the leadings are more important.
The engine will run just fine without the trailings.
The engine will run just fine without the trailings.
I can't understand why so many people say this and make people believe that they can run without it without any symptoms.
Without the trailing pack, you will loose power.
So
I had the same exact problem
solution:
worked like a charm
solution:
Check the harness around the trailing coil connection. That corner likes to build up a lot of crud (mixed with brake fluid leaked from the brake and clutch systems, leaves from the corner of the hood, etc.) and it may have found it's way into the harness. You'll want to clean the contacts of the 4 pin weather tight connector with contact cleaner, then apply dielectric grease and reassemble.
Thanks
Cheers for the heads up guys.
Checked for a good strong spark on the trailing, seemed good, but thats just my judgement on a visual check.
going to clean the connectors now, while i'm at it i'll check for good grounding.
thanks again
Checked for a good strong spark on the trailing, seemed good, but thats just my judgement on a visual check.
going to clean the connectors now, while i'm at it i'll check for good grounding.
thanks again
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jakeishness
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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Sep 11, 2015 11:33 AM



