Or you get a 12v air compressur and use the pnuematic solenoids that are already on the car. Total investment is some vac line and a $15.00 air pump from wallyworld.

 

i think i'd go with silenoids and an rpm switch over ANYTHING from walmart.

 

Fine, but the solenoids that will work well with reliable results are going to cost well over $100 a piece, and the $15 unit from walmart will still be more reliable. Personaly, I'll take my $.1.50 jar of pickles and be ******* happy im not paying $3.00/jar elsewhere.

Your choice

BTW, the same air pump from walmart will sell on ebay for about $9.99... you know-- since ebay is so much more honorable than walmart.

EDIT: oh... and the rpm switch will cost you about $50-100. Not a problem if you're made of money though.

Personaly I'm not, so I'll chose my reliable $15 method.

 

just to add my $0.02

When I bought my car, it didn't have the actuator sleeves. From what I can see it was quite easy to remove them. The holes that the actuator rods went thru were welded over and that was that. My guess is that this causes a minimal difference, say compared to removing the second set of butterflies for the secondry throttle ports on the TB.

pics? Sure...

http://rx7.pw.cx/photos/AREAS/intake...fuel%20024.jpg

http://rx7.pw.cx/photos/AREAS/intake...fuel%20035.jpg

http://rx7.pw.cx/photos/AREAS/intake...fuel%20036.jpg

http://rx7.pw.cx/photos/AREAS/intake...fuel%20062.jpg

http://rx7.pw.cx/photos/AREAS/intake/car_799_%20014.jpg

http://rx7.pw.cx/photos/AREAS/intake/car_799_%20015.jpg

HTH

 

I'm sorry, did you just say removing the sleaves causes minimal difference when compared to an opperational system? Becaus thats just ignorant, and it makes it quite obvious you've never driven your car with the sleeves, there is a huge difference. But... that may have not been what you meant, its hard to tell.

 

Well in actual fact I have never driven another RX-7, and only been driving this for like 8 months. Still learning :P Thats the kind of feedback im after.

Perhaps I was a bit rushed earlier. My car was rather modified when I got it and its been 8 months of pure hell pretty much. I've read a lot but not much on the actuators/valves. When I was reading about the TB Mod (where they remove the first set of butterflies that control airflow to the sec+aux ports), there was discussion about how this would make it harder getting from idle to WOT, in that you would have to baby the throttle up to about 3000rpm before pushing it.

From my perspective this seems like more of a difference than those actuator sleeves would make.... but yeah, no experience, only guessing (as I did note!)

Cheerio

 

Removing the butterflies does about jack **** on an n/a anyhow, the removing or making the sleeves not opperational is a loss of about 20hp. Ever feel a 20hp difference? The butterfly mod is *MAYBE* a 1hp difference, if that.

The double throttle plates helped low rpm air flow velocity. Basicaly it made it *slightly* faster. With them removed you get to redline *maybe* slightly slower, but above 3k it might be a benifit of the 1hp.
1hp loss down low, 1hp gain up high. Personaly I'd rather keep the low end torque that the seven already suffers from.

Like I said, opperational sleaves are worth about 20hp somewhere on the torque curve compared to wired/removed sleeves.

Theres a bunch of people here who swear that they don't make a difference... but in there case, my guess is the sleaves didn't work right before they ignorantly removed them (as opposed to actually fixing the things).

---

That said, you're down on oz, slap on a turbo, i hear thats what ya'll do down under; crazy rotor blokes. Stop fiddling with n/a and get yourself a turbo :P

 

Hmm, well if I ever come across a 6-port intake that hasnt been as agressively modified as mine, I will consider getting some actuator sleeves and electronic actuators.. Thanks for all that info there Very handy! Regarding the turbo, well. My car has been hell since I have got it, literally been replacing everything, one bit at a time. The turbo is on the list... at the end of the list.
Right now I have this problem to deal with:

Yes, they should be on the countershaft input-gear in my transmission =)

Cheers

 

A question for the guy with the walmart airpump. How do you controle what rmp the pump comes on at? Or do you just have a switch that you hit when you want them activated?

I'm trying to get mine working now that I don't have any emmisions or a cat. I am working on activating them off the air pump but am having problems bleeding the excess preasure off. I may have to goto 2 bleeder valves. Hopefully I can work it out. I tried wireing them open. Went for a drive and I will be cutting the wires in about 2 min.

 

^^ Stock ecu triggers the air pump (or rather a relay to trigger the air pump circuit).

Stock ECU triggers the air pump, and a stock pnuematic solenoid controls the switching to the VDI

 

^^
Ok. Is this on both s4 and s5. Sorry should have said I have an s4

 

use an rpm switch

 

That's on an s5. On an s4, your 5/6th ports are opened by exhaust back pressure and the ecu has nothing to do with their activation.

 

^^^^
Ya. I don't have any exhaust back pressure any more. Or well probably not enough to do anything. I'm seeing what all my options are. I'm having difficulties with runnin them off the air pump.

But this isn't my thread so I'll let it get back on topic.

 

When I got my car my aux. port sleeves were already removed. I guess the previous owner had them taken out when the motor was rebuilt and streetported. Well, thinking that the previous owner didn't know what he was doing, I bought some sleeves and rods and put them in. I didn't really feel a difference in low or high end power, but I did notice that my MPG was down by 1 or 2 MPG. So I figured I actually did end up losing some power since it is my daily driver it must be using relatively more gas to get up to speed. I guess they were restricting air flow more than helping on my streetport. So I took them back out just awhile ago and it seems as though my MPG is back up, though it's too early to say for sure.

So my experience with the aux. port sleeves is that I'm better off without them. But then again, I have a ported motor, and other mods (all mods in my VBGarage). I don't have any personal experience with them on stock ports, but based on what I've seen here, I'd advise leaving them in.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that the way the previous owner plugged up the holes in the LIM when removing the sleeves and rods is rather simple and I haven't seen it mentioned here. What he did as he just took the actuating rods and cut them to short stubs so they don't protrude out into the air stream yet they still seal with the gasket in the LIM.

 

Sweet stuff...

 

my sleeve were not working up until thursday. i presume this was due to lack of backpressure (s4), as i have a full exhaust after the manifold, and it's pretty free flowing.
i wired mine open, and holy **** did it ever make a difference after 4500. if they ain't working now, wire them open. huge gain back ot where it should be up top, and so far i've not noticed any loss of low rpm power, naot above 2000rpm anyway.
although this may be aided by my homemade devcon epoxy sleeve inserts. this may make it have better flow characteristics below the normal rpm for the unmodded sleeves. at the very least, if you don't like it, you can just undo it. by the way, wiring them open means mechanically, not electrically, as is sometimes confused.

 

Right now I'm still breaking in my new rebuild, so I'm below 4K rpm. I wired them open yesterday and went out on the highway. I noticed a huge drop in torque on the low end, which is all im driving at right now. When I got back I cut the wires. So I definatly want to get the system work right. It just needs some more tinkering time to get them right.

Thanks for the input thou.

 

The loss of low end torque will improve MPG tooling around town, that is likely why you have seen slightly improved economy with the sleeves gone.

 

sorry, didn't see your previous posts. maybe try it again after you're done the break in, that may change your priorities

but, just because i haven't really noticed a dop down low, ddoesn't mean there isn't one. for me this is a temporary fix, i hope to buy a racing beat header in the future, one that has the provision for the aux port activation built into it, and have them work properly again.

 

just a follow up question... dDUB what size bolts did you use and what size threads?
and to take the lim i know i will need a new gasket, is there anything else i should prepare for?