replacing stereo in 91 vert
#1
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replacing stereo in 91 vert
i have a '91 vert and I want to replace the entire stereo system with all new stuff. But, I'm trying to figure out how with the headrest speakers, etc. Has anyone done this???
how do I get a 4 channel stereo to work in a car with 10 channels.
Also, what about adapters for the hole left in the dash by the huge frickin factory system?
Any help would be appreciated.
rob
robfeltner@cfl.rr.com
how do I get a 4 channel stereo to work in a car with 10 channels.
Also, what about adapters for the hole left in the dash by the huge frickin factory system?
Any help would be appreciated.
rob
robfeltner@cfl.rr.com
#2
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
I just did this 2 months ago when I put my vert on the road. I used a kenwood head unit, double din, cd/mp3/wma/minidisc deck. IT is a japan/hongkong market deck, but the tuner is set up for US band.
Anyway, To answer your question about the hole in the dash, you have 3 options: 1) get a double din unit (what the large ones are called, like the stocker and mine) or 2) get a single din unit and a trim kit from a stereo shop or crutchfield. The trim kit is basically some plastic, either panels or pockets, that takes up the extra space. 3) get a single din head unit and another single din eq/dsp/misc. deck to go below the first one. This type of install looks freakin awesome, but it costs a lot and is only useful if you run multiple amps/channels.
About the headrest speakers, I kept mine and they work like stock. All you really have to do is jumper one wire to another up at the head unit wiring harness. The headrest speakers are controlled by a seperate amplifier mounted behind the drivers seat. Just like any other amp, it requires a remote wire to switch on and off. If you're using a 4 channel head unit, and the proper wiring harness adaptor plugs, all that you must *custom* wire is getting power to the headrest amp remote wire. IIRC (and I may not) it was a brown wire with a red stripe. I can pull my deck out and look if you arent sure of your ability to probe with a dmm and find out. You can pull power from either a) the deck's amplifier turn-on wire or b) the main switched ignition wire (red). IN addition to the normal connections to the deck, jumper a small wire from whichever of those you choose to the remote supply wire.
If you dont mind, and you do in fact get yours figured out, please post back here to confirm or deny that I mentioned the proper wire color. You can figure it out pretty easily by studying which wire (on the bigger "power" harness coming from the dash, which has constant, switched, etc. power) does not have a mate on the aftermarket wiring harness adaptor...they dont put the headrest amp remote wire on them, I dont believe they had a convertible when they developed it.
Anyway, To answer your question about the hole in the dash, you have 3 options: 1) get a double din unit (what the large ones are called, like the stocker and mine) or 2) get a single din unit and a trim kit from a stereo shop or crutchfield. The trim kit is basically some plastic, either panels or pockets, that takes up the extra space. 3) get a single din head unit and another single din eq/dsp/misc. deck to go below the first one. This type of install looks freakin awesome, but it costs a lot and is only useful if you run multiple amps/channels.
About the headrest speakers, I kept mine and they work like stock. All you really have to do is jumper one wire to another up at the head unit wiring harness. The headrest speakers are controlled by a seperate amplifier mounted behind the drivers seat. Just like any other amp, it requires a remote wire to switch on and off. If you're using a 4 channel head unit, and the proper wiring harness adaptor plugs, all that you must *custom* wire is getting power to the headrest amp remote wire. IIRC (and I may not) it was a brown wire with a red stripe. I can pull my deck out and look if you arent sure of your ability to probe with a dmm and find out. You can pull power from either a) the deck's amplifier turn-on wire or b) the main switched ignition wire (red). IN addition to the normal connections to the deck, jumper a small wire from whichever of those you choose to the remote supply wire.
If you dont mind, and you do in fact get yours figured out, please post back here to confirm or deny that I mentioned the proper wire color. You can figure it out pretty easily by studying which wire (on the bigger "power" harness coming from the dash, which has constant, switched, etc. power) does not have a mate on the aftermarket wiring harness adaptor...they dont put the headrest amp remote wire on them, I dont believe they had a convertible when they developed it.
#3
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wait a minute, you mean there is a stock amp for the headrest speakers...from the factory???? Where is it???
I don't want to sound like an idiot, I do have knowledge of electronics, and had considered how to put this together with crossovers and amps....I just haven't tried a vert yet. Although I've had two verts.
Thanks for writing!
rob
robfeltner@cfl.rr.com
I don't want to sound like an idiot, I do have knowledge of electronics, and had considered how to put this together with crossovers and amps....I just haven't tried a vert yet. Although I've had two verts.
Thanks for writing!
rob
robfeltner@cfl.rr.com
#5
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
you mean there is a stock amp for the headrest speakers...from the factory???? Where is it???
The headrest speakers are controlled by a seperate amplifier mounted behind the drivers seat.
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