Audiofight

Alright. My mission was a success!

In case you didn't read my previous post, here's the story:

I tore apart my factory driveshaft, drove the old U-joint through and cleaned up the holes. I figured that someone, at sometime, had to make the U-joints for our driveshafts and they must be available somehow. So, I went on a mission to find one.

WELL, I FINALLY FOUND THEM!

Rockford Driveline Components
Part #: 430-10
Mazda RX-7 84-91

I can get as many as I want for $20 + shipping. Go to a local shop that rebuilds driveshafts and ask them if they have access to this brand. If so, buy away!

Shoot me an email if you want me to get you some new U-joints.

Oh, and these also have grease fittings to prevent premature wear-out unlike the original U-joints.

audiofight@hotmail.com

Scott 89t2

the stock 86-88 ones are replacable I think. the 89-91 ones are not. those are probably just for the 86-88 ones.

Audiofight

If someone locally has a 89-91 RX-7 or at least a driveshaft, we can compare.

The stock 86-88 weren't replaceable either. No parts store has a listing for anything RX-7 related after 83.

You will have to drive the old ones through the driveshaft using a large punch, vise clamps to hold it and a large hammer. This will remove the lip that holds the old pressed ones in.

I replaced mine last night and it made so much of a difference. Any questions about the process, shoot me an email or ask it here.

UniqueTII

If I took the whole shaft to a joint shop, would they tell me that the u-joints couldn't be replaced, or would they fix them the way you described?

Cipher

According to Mazdatrix, anything after `83 has non-replacable UJoints. Chances are, if those things fit an 88, they will fit up to a `91. Also, 86-91 uses the same driveshaft - once again, according to Mazdatrix.

Jason

Audiofight

Jason,

You are correct. All parts stores will tell you they don't have a listing for the U-joints for an OEM driveshaft, but I have found some.

Look at it like I did. Someone, somewhere, made this for Mazda originally. Now, I have located and got a supply on these.

$40 + shipping for two new ones. It will take an hour or so, depending on your skill, to replace both of them.

Tools required: [list=1][*]Large Socket (14mm or 7/8 should be close) [*]Large Hammer [*]Vise Clamp [*]Medium to large punch [*]Flat file [/list=1]

Instructions: [list=1][*]Clamp punch to avoid smashing fingers. [*]Prop the U-joint caps on the socket [*]Place punch on the U-joint cap and smash the living (&*$! out of it. [*]Flip and repeat until both caps are off and the U-joint is removed [*]Once old U-joint is removed, file the inner openings flat to remove all rust and debris that may hinder installation of new U-joint. [*]Place new U-joint in the openings and carefully pound the new caps onto the U-joint. [*]Insert clips and grease fitting [*]Grease up [*]Reinstall driveshaft [/list=1]

Make sure you mark the rear-end and the driveshaft so you can re-install it exactly like you took it out. Also mark the front yoke so it is also re-assembled exactly. This way, you won't need to re-balance the driveshaft unless it was out of balance in the first place.

Audiofight

Why is it that people can't believe that I found these?

Hasn't anyone ever truly looked for a U-joint for these cars? I would never bend over and take a $350 shaft from Mazda.

Gees. Have some faith here people.

rx7_ragtop

How do you retain the new ones? The old ones were pressed and "staked" in.

Brad

jacob

i think a little tack-weld would work just fine. people in the off-road community do it all the time to keep axle shaft u-joint caps from flying off. unless the new joints came with clips, then just use those

kristopher_d

Apparantly they come with clilps.

Audiofight

Yes.

They do come with clips, but you will need to "tack" them in like jacob recommends because the "stacking" on the original driveshaft took up the play that can become present in the U-joint.

By staking them in place instead of relying strictly on the clips, this allows the manufacturer of the driveshaft a larger window of allowances on the dimensions of the yolk and driveshaft openings. Staking will press the U-joint together regardless of how many thousandths of a inch it may have been off.

Tacking the caps back in lightly will keep the play out of the U-joint and the clips are also there for extra security.

I know that tacking the new ones in place is necessary because I have to pull my driveshaft back out and do that myself.

I have a very slight shudder whenever driving over 50. It is most noticable between 58-64.

Thaniel

Bought a set of the replacement U-joints 2 weeks ago. Finally took them out of the box and read the instructions. Have a look as they may answer some questions. I personally like the title
"Disassembly of the non rebuildable u-joint"

Thaniel

Disassembly

And of course reassembly


Looks like fun

Wankel7

What are the symptoms of a failing u joint? When I start from a dead stop about one or two seconds latter I get this nasty vibration that sounds like it is coming from the right rear half shafts?

James

Audiofight

The symptoms I experienced were a vibration when cruising in the lower rpms. Around the 2k-3k range, highway speeds weren't as bad as say ~60ish

(Man, alot of slang in that sentence. )

I also heard a squeaking coming from slightly behind my seat whenever I was moving in reverse.

The noise never seemed to come from either side, more from a central area and not that far back (halfshafts)

Good post Thaniel!

Scott 89t2

I'm intrested in this... is that a good price? if I can find them localy will they be alot more? I think mine are probably going.

Audiofight

Scott 89t2

If you can find them locally, they should be roughly the same price I am asking. Give or take a few dollars, but you would definitely save the $4.50-5.00 for shipping I charge to send them out. I use USPS priority mail w/ delivery confirmation.

I think they are a good price, considering the other options available.

1. New OEM driveshaft = ~$350
2. Mazdatrix aftermarket driveshaft = ~$250
3. U-joints from me = ~$45 (for both and shipped)

You can do the math all day, but I think it is an easy call.

I also am offering a rebuild service of the OEM driveshaft. IF you don't want to rebuild it yourself, then I will do it as well. Unless you want it back within 48 hours or sending it, I will even do a road test in my car to see how it feels (if it bolts up to mine, s4 NA)

PM for further details.

se- Bruce

This is grate, I have two in my part's shed that need to be
rebuilt, now I have got to get word to Larry I need his
welder.

Scott 89t2

has anybody else done this yet? I'm going to try to find a set now.

only thing is weather they fit all 2nd gens, non turbo and turbo? are they all the same u-joints? cause I know the driveshafts are different.

you'll probably get an e-mail from me soon cause I'm too lazy to go hunting locally

Thaniel

I am waiting to get my Mufflers from Mazdatrix so I can do all the work to my car at the same time. I will post how it goes.

Bad news is Mazdatrix says they are out of stock on the RB N/A mufflers an have no date on when they will be available. *&$(@ why does working on my car have to be a *(*&#'in pain.

Audiofight

I found out that the U-joints are universal replacement for all RX-7s from 84 to 91 with the pressed in U-joints.

It doesn't matter if it is an Auto, NA 5-sp, or Turbo 5-sp

All the same U-joint. $44.95 shipped for a new pair.

Thaniel

Well I finally put the new u-joints in my drive shaft.
Wasn't too bad. I chose to cut on side of the U-joint with a cut off wheel and then pound one cap in a little then with a grinder grind off the staked areas. Then flip it over and did the other side. I was concerned about the "considerable" force to just press it past the staked portion. Putting it back together was easy. Have to pull the seals off the caps and put them on first as they are larger than the holes for the caps. After putting on the C-clips I needed to tap the caps back out slightly. (taped on the actual clip with a screw driver and a hammer until it seated against the yoke).

BAD news is I took the shaft to get it balanced. Took it to a very capable place and they couldn't do it. Said they are throw aways and won't fit into the balance meachine (the extra flange on the end I guess).

The new joints are much smoother than my old ones. The front one was all messed up even though it had very little play in it. I'll put the shaft on tonight and see how it feels.

Thaniel

Wrong, Wrong, Wrong. Now I understand what Audiofight was talking about.

I put the shaft back on and it shook like crazy. Way worse than What it was before. The c-clips were not holding the caps tight to the u-joint and the shaft would flop and vibrate. I pulled it back off and shimed between each c-clip and the yoke to push the caps tightly on the joint. No more play in the shaft and it is SMOOTH. Really smooth,

By the way. I could not get the drive shaft off without removing some of the exhaust. I found by unbolting the y-Pipe from the cat and unbolting the exhaust hangars for the y-pipe I could flex it down enough to put the flange of the shaft through the y.

MAX-IMAL

Ok, back from the dead....

When you said you shimmed the C clip...how did you do that? Was that with a washer or something that made it press tighter against the yoke?

So can you rent a press?

So you didn't need to get it balanced?


James

rx7sportscar

OK,

I got the U-joint form Audioflight (Thanks Audioflight!) and now I'm having a bit of a problem getting the old U-joint out. I pressed the u-joint cap a bit on one direction, giving me room to grind down the tacks, turned the drive shaft around 180 degrees, and proceeded to press in the other direction ( used a vice and the appropriate sockets to press it out). You are then suppose to use pliers to grab a hold of the exposed cap and pull it out. Ya, right! The problem I'm having is that you can only press so far before the U joint interferes with the yokes and this results with only 1/8" of the cap exposed (check photo), I can't get a good grip on it and twist it off. I've chipped teeth on both a set of expansion pliers and vice grips.

I then ground down the stakes on the other side (got good access now so I thought that I would ensure that I get all the stakes out), and pressed in the other direction. Still could not get a good grip on it. I'm about ready to get the grinder out and machine some flats on this sucker (the cap that is), but I thought I would post this question first to see if anyone had other ideas.

Mark
86 Sport Restoration Project