Jimmy325i

The diference between my last "ride" and this car is about 15.999 Million dollars.... And if you screw up a car you end up on a shoulder, not a casket.

Anyways... I'm new to the rotory engine scene but have been racing cars and modifying trucks for well over 15 years. 99% of your beloved FC experience is directly related to 99% of my mechanical experience. I'm not here to get into a pissing contest. I just don't like the idea of someone getting clubbed with a breaker bar that wasn't secured properly. Especially when there is a much better alternative with less effort required to accomplish the same task. (I didn't have to close my hood and neither should you)

Read my first post here and you will see a very detailed explanation of my alternative method. You'll also see it in the originators follow up thread on this subject as his mechanic also used it.

HAILERS

ICEMARK.......the hole with the o'ring and teflon gasket around it, is fed directly from the oil pump and goes into the front cover directly to the port that feeds the oil cooler hose on the front left side of the cover. As you can see, it has flow all the time. The oil pressure control valve in the front cover only comes into play by dumping oil pressure if the pressure is too high. But I know that you know that. You just changed, cleaned, adjusted that item recently.

HAILERS

TESTLA.....This is what I did not describe very well:............EDIT: Its not electrical in any manner what so ever. I have a certain distrust of electrical sensors. Pure predjudice I'm sure. Its from growing up around LUCAS products. LUCAS being the prince of darkness. If you ever owned a MG, Jaguar, Triumph you know what I mean.

RETed

The last time I checked, you needed a "decent" score on the ASVAB (do you even need a score?) to "qualify"; the Army teaches you the rest.&nbsp There are only a "handful" of experienced that can competently work on an FC.&nbsp Please, let's not get into a long diatribe of what it takes to become a "mechanic" in the armed forces...


You mean this?

Either you're a 350# gorilla with buldging muscles or (in my experience) this will not work 99% of the time.&nbsp I've had 4 feet long pipe slipped over ratchets pulling hard enough to throw out my back trying to get this bolt to come off - why risk bashing my car and break something in my body, when the starter can do all the work for you.


-Ted

Icemark

Thanks for updating me!

tesla042

So...would it make sense to just get a new banjo bolt that's the same size as the threading on the stock oil pressure sender, tap it to fit that little bronze jobby-doo that I assume came with the guage, replace the stock sender with this guy, and just use that instead of the stock guage?

I feel a bit more comfortable with that than tapping my main oil line..heh

Samps

I love how this thread split into two totaly separate discussions going on at the same time. For discussion on oil pressure: I had some of those low pressure reading symptoms you guys mentioned. I took a known good mechanical guage and everything was in perfect running order. Basically the stock guage is poop. For the main pully nut discussion: If "Mr. Horseshit" guy had just simply said that he suggested using an alternative method to remove the nut then everything would have been o.k. But instead he took a rude manner and got himself into an argument over nonsense.

Morals to these stories:

- Stock guages suck!

- Be nice!

Barwick

WHERE did you find that impact wrench? I need one for myself man.. working on FB race cars sucks when you can't get the friggin' flywheel nut off because it's on there so freaking tight.

Samps

Here is the daddy of all impact wrenches!

http://www.alltiresupply.com/Merchan...ry_Code=IW_1D1



can you say "2000 ft lbs"

Samps

That one is a little steep at $1700. But there are alot of other good air tools on that site. There are some impact wrenches for around $200 that can do 600 ft lbs.

HAILERS

TESLA.....I'm just a little lost. The banjo bolt in the picture is the one that holds the line from the oil cooler to the rear housing. I drilled a hole in the middle of it and threaded that hole with the same size threads that are on the union that you see in the picture. I later learned by accident, that the threads I tapped into the banjo bolt are the same as the threads for the oil sender unit. I'll almost swear that the union that is screwed into the banjo bolt, that you see in the picture , is one that came with the SunPro gauge. That gauge had about five different fittings to help a guy install the pressure sensing line. I just use it when I have suspicions about the oil pressure, then take it off when I get around to it. When I get home I'll see what tap I used. Its been a couple of years ago. If you find that your oil pressure is good on the aftermarket gauge, the factory oil pressure sending unit can be dismantled and the cam adjusted to reflect what you see on the aftermarket unit. Do that at your own risk though. One thing I never got around to doing, was to take the stock sending unit, use a hacksaw to cut off the portion of the sending unit that screws into the block, and tap threads into that part to match the threads on the aftermarket unit. Another project that didn't get done since the banjo bolt worked. The banjo bolt idea came from Mazdatrix or Racing Beat. Certainly not an original thought. Now the hacksaw project was original.

Jimmy325i

Well, it helped that I knew my **** going into the program. Know what a distinguished honor graduate is? I am one. Yes, You need a shitty ASVAB score (over 50) to get into the program. Mine happend to be a 94 (of 100) and my GT (you need a 110 to get into flight training) is a mere 128. My instructors quickly realized that I was not "new" to spining wrenches and one actually accused me of being a machinist as a civilian.

You think working on an FC is difficult? LOL Try the three week program required to actually be able to read and use a Boeing service manual...

I had no dificulty what so ever getting that bolt out with my method and I only weigh 200lbs. Maybe you should invest in a fitness program?

tesla042

...same as the threads for the STOCK oil pressure sender? So, you can take that union, and screw it directly in the hole in the block that the stock oil pressure sender is in?

I'm thinking about just replacing my stock guage, not doing the temporary check that you did..

-Tesla

RETed

What a waste...you could've been a pilot...


-Ted

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

It's quite flattering my thread could stir such emotions! Just let It go shall we? Next thread!

Jimmy325i

Shortest path to flight training is through the back door. They require two officers to back you on your application to warrant officer flight school. (pilots are a bonus) It also helps that you already know how the bird flys when you apply. I was well on my way to being a pilot when I blew up my right knee in a live fire excersize. (not literally, but internally) Got my flight medical revoked because of it. (had my private pilot's license)


I'm not here to start fights or **** anyone off. I just think this should be a forum of good methods rather than something a bit questionable at best.

I have 3 years racing experience in the BMWCCA and like I said before, 99% of the FC translates directly to my past. I just wish my beemer's rear suspension was so easily adjusted back in the day... Mazda actually had one up on them in the same era of car.