and too, u said the main relay should click. is this the relay that is near the coil pack by the fire wall?

 

LOL, sorry, my fault...You're gonna read pin-to-pin, not pin to ground...What you will be doing effectively is reading one wire to the CAS, read the CAS coil itself, then read the wire coming from the CAS, all at once...There are two coils, that's why there are four wires (and you'll take two different readings)...You CAN read the ECU, I've done it before on the injector circuits, BUT I don't recommend it- there are some internal circuits that only see minimal voltage, and it's possible if you pick the wrong pins (or just play around), that the 9 volt meter source could blow some transistors, etc...

 

Yeh, the larger of the two (I think the aft one- gold-colored) is the main relay...You should hear the click when the key is turned...

 

when you turn the egnition key what sound do you get....

(rrrr....rrrr.rrrr or klick klick....or nothing)

 

Wow...this sounds like my problem...I'm glad to hear that I am not the only one that went through this. I don't think that my resolution would work for this car...Unless you fried your ECU. Which is possible. Remember having those little race tracks where the cars would travel on the metal strips? They always smelled like burning plastic? Does your EGI(Computer) smell like this?

 

so i place the positive and negative prongs to each other or do i put the negative prong on the wire that is opposite from the one im testing. the battery should be hooked up during this right?

 

mali- when i turn the ignition key i hear a few clicks from the main relay but also a buzzing noise from somewhere in the engine compartment. the clicks stop after a few, but the buzzing goes until i turn the ignition key off.

 

Go to the largest plug, pull it off (to protect the ECU from the 9 volt meter voltage),put the meter on ohms, put the probes on the green wire terminal (6th from the left on the bottom row), and blue wire (5th from left, bottom)...You should get continuity, something around 200 ohms, IIRC...

Next, try the red wire (3rd from left, bottom) to the white wire (4th from left, top row). Same thing, 'bout 200 ohms. All of these locations are looking at the BACK of the plugs, as if it was still on the ECU. If any readings are out of whack, you've got a bad CAS or wiring. If they're all good, the CAS & wiring are good..."

Just read this slowly...it is all there...

 

i smelled the ecu and it didnt smell burnt, is there another way to see if the ecu is gone. the car cranks but wont fire up, if the ecu was dead would the car still crank?

 

My car cranked all day long. There was no spark. I couldn't for the life of me figure it out. Try the "wiggle" test... stand outside in front of your car and jiggle your *** at it... Just kidding... Okay. Next to the 13B Injection Block, as you like to call it... there is a bundle of wiring...there are a bunch of colored solenoids and there is a little cylinder type thing. The cylinder has a green connector on it that splices into the rest of the harness...Try cranking it after you wiggle those wires...Just try it.

 

Mali FC...I believe it would be..."RRR...RRR...RRR...RRR...RRR...RRR...RRR...RR R"

 

lol thanx hehe

 

Bluemazda, before you tell me it didn't work...go outside and keep doing it! Try at least 4 times...

 

bluemazda, did you check if your alt is charging....

 

If he has been cranking it this whole time I am sure that the battery has died at LEAST once...That's a good, valid question...

 

Did ya get it? This might make it simpler- in reference to what I wrote before, and the entry that White 87 13B plagiarized from me (j/k)...1st check at the ECU plug- put the black lead on the green wire spade, put the red lead on the blue wire spade, meter on ohms...2nd check, put the black meter lead on the red wire spade, red lead on the white wire, still on ohms...Both readings should be almost exactly the same, whether it's 180 ohms, or 220 ohms, or something close to that...That do it for ya?

 

thanks, i am getting continuity on both but its only around 140 ohms for each. if im readin the meter right, but im almost positive i am

 

i put a spare batery in and its crankin faster now. sorry, i thought u meant what sound does it make with the ignition just in the on position. yea, when i turn the key it goes rrr...rrr...rrr

 

how can i test if the alt is charging?

 

Congratulations, bluemazda, you have just successfully troubleshot your CAS system & found it good (unless it gets "bad" when hot or something weird like that, but we won't worry about that now )

On to the next component...Pick it...Have you read out the coils yet?

 

what do u mean by read( sorry im kind of a newbie), check that wire with the yellow stripe for 12 volts?

 

Exactly right...I suppose that you are still not getting spark? Did you try the wiggle test?

When reading out the coils you need to make sure that they are getting the proper resistance... I am not sure exactly what it is...but Wayne will elaborate...

 

turn on your lights while your car is running and see if they are weak. If they are, your alternator is not charging.

Or you can go to AutoZone if you have it in your area and they will check it for free.

 

the car wont start

 

If the car moved that would be all too easy...Mali...I don't get it?!