Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

I sent off the fuel injectors to be cleaned because all starting symptoms pointed to leaking fuel injectors. When I first got the car, it was badly flooded. Deflooding fixed that...but it would take a lot of cranking time before it would sputter into life. If the car sat for a few days though, it would fail to start unless advanced deflooding was performed. This eventually declined to a day or so...which declined into over night...which declined into a few hours of sitting before it would fail to start.
I suspected the injectors, and sent them off. Got them back, reinstalled.


Interestingly, I think I fubared things up.

When I sent off the injectors, I plugged the primary injector holes with paper towels and the intake with paper towels. This is all fine, don't think I dropped some into my engine.

But, I had to replace the rear iron to throttle body coolant line because a bit of nipple had broken off upon removal and I didn't want crap circulating thru my cooling system. Last night when I removed the line from the rear iron to go get a replacement hose, quite a lot of coolant came out (While it was leveling the system). Some of it got into my motor thru the paper towels plugging the injector holes.

So when I spun out the fuel in an attempt to deflood the motor, and reinstalled them. No dice. I pulled the plugs out to discover quite a lot of oil/coolant white much coating them. Okay, I thought that spinning all this junk out would fix it. So I removed all the plugs again and let the starter run for about 25 seconds.

Well I can get the motor to cough, like it used to prior to sending off the injectors...but I can't get it to fire.

Question is, what is it that has been causing this issue? It acts flooded. De-flooding helps, but it won't fire. It was doing this prior to pulling the injectors (Which is why I sent them off for cleaning, suspected leaky) and it's still doing it now. The injectors were never the culprit, I've decided, as they passed the leak test at Witch Hunter and the numbers show that they were never that bad to begin with.

I can only assume that the motor itself is at fault. The compression numbers are pretty dismal. It has no power when it does run, and it takes forever and ever to start. Could it be that maybe this motor is just done? Starting was taking longer and longer and longer until finally (Now) it just won't go.

IIRC, the compression numbers were mid sixties rear rotor, low seventies front rotor. Seafoam was used in attempt to help the numbers.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

anything below 85psi is considered a fail by mazda standards. most people consider below 100psi to be on it's last legs. I am pretty sure that your motor just gave up the ghost.

Assuming it wasn't burning oil or coolant to start with you should be able to pull it apart and replace all the seals and be back in business.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Coolant is terrible inside the engine, if it sits for a bit it starts to rust.

You may just have a low compression motor though, this also causes flooding.

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

It could be a poor ground somewhere, as a friend pointed out to me. I'm feeling as if I should not care though, because that motor's days are numbered in that car.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Time for a rebuild indeed, since it looks like it's just worn. Check everything (housings, and everything else, specs.) and take your time when rebuilding, or let someone do it if you don't have the time. If you don't already have the FSM, you can find it easily (hint - look at my sig.).

Mr.FC3s

Yeah this motor is done and I doubt anything will get it to kick over, Good thing about this is now you have good injectors if you keep it N/A

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

I got it to fire, but it was reluctant to do so. It feels like it has even less power than it did before I sent the injectors off for cleaning. I need to swap my engines NOW.