I few days ago i went to crappy tire to pick up some bedliner spray to sound deaden the rear hatch area. My carpets have been removed. right before spraying i noticed that the tar was starting to crack from the body flexing. well since i was tryin to lose weight on my car i thought i might as well remove the tar.

today i finish removing all the tar from the rear hatch area. Just some advice for people even considering it. DONT BOTHER. I saved every last piece that i took off and the weight savings are pathetic .... 4 pounds.... and it took me almost a whole day to do.

Even though the savings are sad. most likely im still goin to remove the rest of it and lay down some dynamat, then put the carpet skin back on. but this is just a warning to people that think they will save alot of weight... you wont.

Tools used - hammer, screwdriver, painting scraper, some tar remover (didnt really help)

 

Yep, not much back there. Its the floor area in front that has the most to lose. I think its double thickness on the front part of the passenger side too. Wait till winter time up there, the stuff comes off in big hunks then just by hitting it with a hammer.

 

Total in the entire car comes out to 40 lbs.
This includes all of the stuff on the floorboards and the inside firewall.


-Ted

 

Kerosene works wonders. Takes it off in a matter of seconds...I stripped the underside of mine for painting, but am keeping the interior stuff for noise reduction.

 

I'm confused...
You bought spray in bed liner for sound deadening... but removed the sound deading tar?
You want to save weight, but you're putting in dynamat?

 

Read his post again, he never said he was removing it to save weight. He was telling everyone else that did it for that reason to not bother due to minimal gains.

 

Some have used Dry Ice too. Seen that done, and it got the whole car scraped in about 4 hours.

 

??!?!?? i got almost 30 just with the inside alone thanx to the US post office digital scale......i havent gotten around to the underside... id say its considerable if ur going to keep on the weightreduction track but since u dont care...meh....the AC compressor is 16 lbs roughly....so i mean thats 46lbs....THEN if u wanna get crazy add the tar under the car...(witch will be slightly offset by the heat sheilding u add to help keep the CRAZY heat down...) but it all adds up its worth it...if u going all out....but again none of this matters once ur not caring about the reductions...

i used dry ice....in about 2 hours did the interior..NP....

 

I stand by my statement.

 

hmm......

i stand by that right there.....LOL

just thought id point that out...im bored here at work......: (

 

travis my logic is this ... im goin to dynamat my whole car anyways .... now why do i need to have tar if dynamat is going to go in?

im not deadset on losing as much weight as possible ... in fact im planning on adding a custom enclosure with either 1 or 2 10"s (havent decided on a box design) just dont want any dead weight or anything i dont need. my future plans is to lay dynamat and put a carpet skin to cover everything up. If i have to add 15 or 20 pounds to make my car look decent then i have no problem doing so.

so far i have removed umm rear speakers, spare, tool pouch, AC, PS, all hardware and lines for AC and PC, all carpet, rubber mat, and sound deadening fluff and even some metal was trimmed from the door panels ....other things were done as well. theres around 300-400 pounds out that ive counted ... plus alot that i didnt.

Sorry for the confusion and thanks for posting the total weight savings. i'll most likely wait till i sound proof the rear to remove the front tar.

 

Using a heat gun allows one to pull up the tar layer fairly easily.Also,placing sound deadening matting on top of the tar layer prevents the sound deadening mat from working properly so your best bet is to remove the tar before placing the mat down or else you will be wasting time and money.

 

Bedliner spray?... doesnt it harden into plastic or whatever it is? I don't think that would deaden sound that good. I would use fatmat (same as dynomat but cheaper) but that can be on the heavy side.. Mabie that rubber under body spray stuff? I bought a stuntbike that has Ryno lining sprayed on the tank for grip and if I knock on it with my hand it definetly doesn't deaden sound.

 

Good going resurrecting a thread over 2 years old...

What do you think Dynamat it?
It's fricken' overpriced tar paper...

This is the first time I've heard the original sound deadening material "interfering" with additional sound insulation...


-Ted

 

The factory tar layering is not going to disappear just because the thread is originally two years old.My reply was for the majority of 7 owners who would like to at least reduce the overall interior noise by a modicum amount and therefor do it right. Secondly,Second Skin Audio sells a butyl based mat like "Dynamat" for much less and it is "rubber" based and not tar like.Thirdly,after I purchased the matting material from Second Skin the owner told me "not" to lay it on top of the factory tar layering.Fourthly,the improvement in my 86 7 is noticeably different since the changeover and after owning the car since it was a baby(day one) I think I would be able to notice a difference.You dig?

 

I'm glad this thread got resurrected. Just got my 7 back with a super charger and new exhaust. My ears are still ringing after a 2 hour drive back.

I was looking into the Dynomat Extreme and their thicker product that goes over it for the floor boards and stuff.

Is there any sound deadening material that is flexible enough to go in between the interior and exterior of the convertible top?

I have swapped out my Mindtrain exhaust for a racing beat exhaust. There is some difference but not much. I have the Racing Beat racing header. I am thinking that may be the next thing to go. The problem is I have a turbo motor in the car, so I do not know how a new header will work without the turbo. I guess I could put another muffler there before the cat.

Any help would be apprecaited.

 

Dry Ice is hard to use on my FD, I might need more, but I thought 5 lbs at a time is good enough.... should I use Kerosine like some people suggested?

 

$30 bucks will get you a heat gun which should help appreciably.

 

All a heat gun does is melt it and reglue it and make it stick all over the place. It's like getting stuck gum out of a pair of jeans. You need to freeze it and break it out.

 

dry ice and good old force!!!