2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

removing sound deadning

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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 12:30 PM
  #1  
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removing sound deadning

Hello.
Does anyone know how to remove this black sound deadning material without ripping it off?
I've already removed all the cables on that area, all of the nuts, the acellerator pedal, the clutch pump and the main brake pump + servo, but it seems like that metal area where the pedals are somehow stops the material from coming off without ripping.

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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 12:32 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
A heat gun or dry ice should work.
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 12:36 PM
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Go to your local Harris teeter or large grocery chain and get a coupe pounds of dry ice. Break the dry ice up and put it on the sound deadening. Wear gloves and use a hammer and a chisel. The colder you get it the easier it will break right off.
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 01:07 PM
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Ok, it's my fault, I wasn't specific enough.
I'm not talking about the golden heat isolation material, I'm talking about the black thing that is attached to the firewall.

In pictures:
I'm not talking about the stuff marked in red, I'm talking about the stuff marked in green:

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What do I need to remove more, so I won't rip it off?

Last edited by Eduardo Santos; Mar 7, 2013 at 01:11 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 01:14 PM
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it's glued to the firewall, literally the only way is to yank it off and then try to scrape off whatever fiber is left.
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 01:34 PM
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Are you sure? Because I was able to start to take the upper part without any effort. It didn't seem like it ever had any sort of glue at all...
And on the passenger side all of it is easy to take off. Only the part on the driver side is difficult because of that metal stuff where the pedals are mounted.

Last edited by Eduardo Santos; Mar 7, 2013 at 01:36 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 02:19 PM
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try it and find out, i always find the fibers sticky in some spots but the glue has probably released in all these years.
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 03:32 PM
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Dry ice does the job. Its like a dollar a pound you should be good with 25 pounds.
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 11:11 AM
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I think that I didn't explained myself well enough, so I decided to make this video:


NOTE: @ 00:34 it may seem (once again) like I'm talking about the golden stuff which is glued to the firewall. I'm actually talking about the black stuff which I'm holding with my hands.
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 03:44 PM
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Nobody?
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 04:19 PM
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if you're trying to remove it without damaging it then you need to remove the steering column first, which is attached with a through bolt on the u-joint flange down at the rack.
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 09:03 AM
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Are you telling me that the metal plate on the firewall around the steering column (the one that holds the pedals), will only come off after I remove the steering column?
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 09:29 AM
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It appears in you're video, by just removing the steering column bolts at the base of the column, you might get some give or flex in the problematic "metal piece", as you call it.
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 09:43 AM
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I'm not sure why you're agonizing over this.
No matter how you try and remove that pad, you're going to lose most of the horsehair backing, so it won't be very effective as a heat/sound shield anyway (not that it ever was particularly).

You're much better off using the same mat on the firewall as you'll use everywhere else (Dynamat, Fat Mat, etc.).
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 11:49 AM
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you may get away with letting the column hang but obviously the pedal bracket has to be removed and the column is holding it to the firewall currently.

i'm also unsure why you're agonizing over this, removing the dash was the hard part.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 04:38 PM
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I was just trying to keep most of it's original material, but it's OK. If it rips, I'll just get another thing to do the same job as this does.

Thank you very much for all your help, people.
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