Ok, i removed all emissions equipment and performed the TB mod. The car starts but it sounds and feels very 'sluggish'... the motor shakes the car very harshly (something it never did before) while idleing, and when i give it throttle the RPM's rise and fall very slowly.. like it responds to my commands very slowly.

Also it sounds very strange, almost like what a muscle car would sound like if you put an upgraded cam in... very BLUG BLUG BLUG BLUG sounding.

HELP!

 

Check for vacuum leaks. I'm willing to bet you've got a lot of them.

 

double check if capped everythinq off especially at the throttle body, sounds like you have a vacumm leak, if you used any block off plates make sure you coated them with black rtv, especially at the air control valve. Thats all i can think of

 

Inspected tediously.. got LIM vacuum going to FPR, blocked off all other unneeded UIM nipples with caps, JB welded the butterfly valve shaft holes in the TB...

i did the entire write up on emissions removal from RotaryResurrection.com with the exception that i left my BAC and Thermowax (because the coolant line needs to go from BAC through the TB back into the engine).

 

That and you may need to adjust your idle-there is a screw for that i believe behind the intake manifold, but its been a while since i messed with mine so i dont remember for sure. I will go look at it tomorrow and get a better description. You can use that to adjust your idle, which may be a little low now, but i dont know what to tell you about it not revving quickly, maybe just look for vaccuum leaks like they said.

 

I think i know the screw you're talking about. Its not an idle problem, its a 'running like ****' problem

Will double check for vacuum leaks. But i also just installed a rebuilt s5 turbo that ive never run before.. could that have anything to do with it?

 

Spray with starter fluid each and every possible leak joint.

Then remove the fan. Just four little nuts. Start the engine and immediatley start spraying around the TID where it mates with the turbo, then around the TID to afm joint plus the tubes that go into the TID. Do it fairly quick so you don't overheat the engine.

Most likely it's going to be the hose b/t the BAC and the turbo outlet duct. That approx 2/3 inch dia hose b/t the bac and turbo outlet duct.

 

Spraying starter fluid will help determine where leaks are? I have an E-fan installed so i can just turn it off so it wont come on

 

after i did the TB mod my TPS was way off and my car was shakeing badly try that.

 

Im going to check with soap and water for leaks.. will check TPS. But i found that my JB weld got slightly pushed into the TB because the coolant pressure was pushing on it because of a bad thermowax seal.... bad news..

 

Yeah. If the engine is idling, and you spray on a leaking area, you can't miss the change in engine tone. It's a sure fire way of finding vacuum/air leaks. Having an electric fan that you can disable while running is a plus.

If you spray starter fluid while the fan is turning, then you have a hard time spraying around the turbo inlet duct. Soap and water???? I don't know about that method.

 

I heard soap and water will create bubbles that are easier to notice? Either way im waiting for the intake manifold gasket to come in.

I JUST built a new TID a few weeks ago and it does not seem to have any leaks? Its solid... where else should i check for leaks?

 

well sucking soap and water into your engine will be a bit more harsh than just some starter fluid. the started fluid method is hard to beat. soap and water is ussualy used for finding leaks in tires and other pressurized objects, not so much things that have vacuum

 

i have had good luck with startin fluid as a good way to find vacuum leaks i would strongly recomend it as a way to find them

 

Great point. Starter fluid sounds like the better choice