2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

removed hks safr, now car wont start. WTF!!!!

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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 08:41 PM
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removed hks safr, now car wont start. WTF!!!!

as title states, the car wont start
actually, i think it has nothing to do w/ the safr
im pretty sure its the fuel pump but thought id ask for some opinions and advice anyway
wouldnt hurt rite?
so my car TRIES to turn on, the rotors spin, im getting spark from the spark plugs, new battery and the car does not turn on
i tried push starting it to no avail
im i right? is it the fuel pump? can it be something else?
thanks in advance

Last edited by namelesspenguin; Dec 16, 2007 at 08:58 PM.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 08:54 PM
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When the AFR was installed you have to splice a couple of wires to the ECU. Did the wires get wired back up right when the HKS AFR was removed?
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 08:57 PM
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YES!
i made sure of that. that was priority number one. thats what makes me lean towards the fuel pump. that and i had trouble w/ the fuel pump before but never changed it.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 09:53 PM
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Did you splice into any power wires while the battery was connected? I would recommend checking your fuses.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 06:53 PM
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^^^ i doubt it. the battery was out of the car while i was removing the safr (it was getting recharged). ill double check the fuses anyway.
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 10:36 PM
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checked the fuses. all good.
anybody else want to throw in their $.02?
thanks
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 02:43 AM
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Did you reconnect the AFM wire that you had to cut to install the HKS AFR (or at least, that's what you do on an SAFC)? You also need to make sure that the circuit opening relay is getting switched correctly by the AFM.

Also, jumper the fuel pump check connector by the passenger side shock tower and see if you can hear the pump running with the key in the "on" position.
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 03:01 AM
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If you think it is the fuel pump, why dont you test it?
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 02:42 AM
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WadeMCarter,
how would i test the fuel pump
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 07:12 AM
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You'd jumper the yellow, two socket, fuel pump check connector and turn the key to ON. Listen for the hummm of the pump and listen for the flow of fuel thru the fuel rails.

The electrical connector above is near the right front strut tower and is not tied down to anything.
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 05:36 AM
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well, everything behind the strips is completely stripped. no rug, sound dampening, plastic covers, anything.
when i turn the key to the "ON" position, i dont hear the fuel pump "PRIME".
so, thats another reason why i think thats the problem
but thanks for everything guys. its all much appreciated
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 06:08 AM
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Damn it. There is NO SUCH THING AS PRIME!

Either do what ARGHX suggests or stop writing. You write but don't say whether you tried what he suggested or not. You go off on some GOOFY tangent that isn't relevant. Arrrrrrrrgh!
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 06:19 AM
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sorry
no more tangents
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 03:06 PM
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remove the hose from the injectors to see if u are getting fuel pumped or it could be flooded cause mine did the same thing put some oil in the vaccume hose around the intake manifold and should start right up

Last edited by Ravingecu21; Jan 1, 2008 at 03:15 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 01:32 AM
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I replaced the pulsation damper (it was leaking BADLY) so the car starts now. It wont go past 2500rpm. I think it is the AFM wire. The only bad thing is, i dont know anything about the ECU/harness. What does it look like? What color is the wire? Where is it? Is it obvious where it should go? The HKS SAFR was already in the car when i bought it. When I removed it, I just removed the wires that were spliced into the ecu. flame on.

-justin
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 01:49 PM
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^The AFM wire that is. What does the AFM wire look like? Color, where, etc.
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 02:03 PM
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Download the fuel and emissions section of the factory service manual. Look at the "control unit" section or whatever. There is a pinout of the ECU. note that the diagram at the end is from the back of the connector, the side with the wires coming out.

There are also wiring diagrams that will show the wire color. It is in a different section of the FSM labelled "wiring diagrams"
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 02:53 PM
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I reconnected the AFM. It was pretty obvious, the only wire that wasnt connected!!!
(im an idiot). Anyway, NOW THE CAR WONT IDLE. It turns of fine, runs fine, everything. It just wont stay on. Even after the car has warmed up. What could be causing this?

-justin
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by namelesspenguin
I reconnected the AFM. It was pretty obvious, the only wire that wasnt connected!!!
(im an idiot). Anyway, NOW THE CAR WONT IDLE. It turns of fine, runs fine, everything. It just wont stay on. Even after the car has warmed up. What could be causing this?

-justin
Check tps adjustment and make sure your idle is set correctly.
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 03:15 PM
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Once again, I dont stop and think. When I installed the pulstaion damper, I tightened the little screw inside all the way. So now theres no fuel being delivered to the motor during idle. Would I be correct? Im just waiting for the motor to cool down before I go in there and fix it.

-justin

p.s. Ill also be sure to check the tps and idle adjustments
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 04:49 PM
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Well, I loosened the screw as much as I could. My car struggles staying on but still dies. The idle is set correctly, I just need to check the TPS.
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 06:06 PM
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Was it an SAFR or SAFC? And if it was an SAFC, was it installed due to larger injectors?
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 08:13 PM
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In order to check the TPS, I would need a volt meter right?
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 11:10 PM
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It is a HKS SAFR (which is for sale btw). It was already installed when i bought the car. Although, the fuel injectors were stock and one needed replacing. I really didnt see a reason for it since NA rx-7's have more than capable fuel systems stock.
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by namelesspenguin
In order to check the TPS, I would need a volt meter right?
Yes unless you have one of those TPS LED things. A multimeter is cheaper and MUCH more useful.
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