Therx7ist

Hey all, just figured I'd see if anyone had some input on this problem. I'm pretty sure I've covered everything or at least have a plan to. Maybe I missed something? Heres the deal. My car has been having some issues including flooding and not being able to hold an idle. The car ran fine at speed and had no loss of power.

Assuming that I had a leaky injector, I decided to finally see what was up. I figured I would swap the primary injectors with the secondaries because I felt the bad injector was a primary. At least if I had a bad secondary, it would be easier to reach if I did determine it was bad.

While I had the upper intake manifold off, I decided to remove the EGR, CSA, BAC and the rats nest. BTW, none of these items were in use for the last year. Everything had been bypassed or eliminated. I have no cat and no ACV, the FPR had been plumbed into the manifold directly.

Now after removing everything and getting it all back together I have a new problem. The car is throwing a code 12 so I need to check out my trailing coil but it won't run right. It will now start and hold a solid idle at about 13-1500 but as soon as I touch the gas, it goes to crap. I have to play with the throttle to keep it running.

My greatest fear, is that I may have popped my ECU. While taking off the UIM, I had forgotten to remove the negative battery terminal. I touched the top of the alternator with the bottom of the UIM and got a spark. How should I proceed?

I know what I think I need to do and I am no novice but could I be missing something?

SureShot

First ya gotta find that vac leak.

Things to check:
EGR block off, injector air bleeds, UIM gasket, loose FPR hose, ACV block off, cracked or loose inlet duct.

Other possibilities:
AFM flap sticking, AFM not horizontal, spark leads too near the CAS signal wire.

Therx7ist

you say to get the vac leak fixed, what makes you think leak? the high idle or the breaking up?