Hi guys

Just removed all my emissions now not getting any fuel at all. Got dark about the time I had it all back together so haven't done any fault finding yet. But initally i think the fuel pump is doing anything.

Any ideas why the fuel pump wouldn't be working just because i removed emissions.

It's a S5 turbo

Also what is the ground wire at the top of the rear iron? mine isn't connected to anything.

 

when you took off the emissions nest (all the metal lines) did you remember to grab some stainless lines and route them where they were on the nest?? kinda hard to explain because i cant think right now... but it would be pretty obvious if you didnt because gas would be pouring out if u were cranking... and ground that wire..check your EGI fuse and relay for the fuel pump also. you running stock ECU?

 

Are you reffering to the steel fuel line that are part of the nest?

Then yes i used new fuel lines, new fuel filter and the fuel lines are all hooked up.

yea the ECU is stock

 

If you're talking about the large ring terminal with two black wires, it's the main ground for the EFI system. If it's not bolted to the engine, no part of the EFI system will work.

 

No i gave that an earth but will have another look that it is a good earth.
The one i'm refering too was bolted to the iron but goes nowhere, found it like then when i took everything off.

 

There's a short ground wire that goes from the rear iron to the firewall.

The fuel pump only runs if the engine is cranking or running. It won't run just by turning the ignition on unless you first jumper the yellow 2-pin check connector by the FR strut tower.

 

Yeah i bridged the Yellow connector, but by then it was dark and i wasn't in the mood.
But tomorrow i'm investigating the earths and going to check that the fuel pump is running.

 

Ok today i was back out checking things out.

The fuel rails get fuel when the yellow connector is bridged and when cranking.

The fuel relay operates when the ignition is switched on

I checked grounds and they all appear fine.

So the problem must be injector related, as mentioned before the injectors have been cleaned by one of them ultra sonic injector cleaners. they are stock.

 

Hold your spare CAS in your hand with the CAS connected to the harness.

Key ON, Engine OFF. Spin your spare CAS by its bottom gear. Listen for the injectors clicking.

Disconnect the Lead and Trail coil assy's before doing so. That way you won't mistake the click of the sparkplugs for the click of the injectors.

No spare CAS? If you KNOW how to install the CAS right/properly, then remove the CAS in the engine and do what was described above.

Sure it's not flooded??????????????????????

Or pull both Lead plugs out and everything else connected up. Have someone spin the engine over for a half minute. A fog of fuel should exit the sparkplug holes.

Does your tach needle bump a bit when your starting? Should if the Trail coil assy is sparking the trail plugs. The bump shows the trail coil is at least working, and that the CAS is outputting, which in turn makes the injectors operate. Something like that.

 

Looks like i might try removing the CAS.

I have never done it before so any pointers would be a bonus.

I'm sure it's not flooded, it doesn't even try to start it is just like taking out the egi fuse, The exhaust has zero fumes, when it's flooded the exhaust splutters petrol and vapour.

 

before you remove your CAS check and see if the fuel lines weren't hooked up backwards. When I removed the rat's nest from my S4 I accidently hooked them up backwards and no fuel. I don't know if the S5 is the same but the feed line should not be attached to the FPR.

 

Yes i've hooked them up the right way round.

 

Yeah I was thinking backwards fuel lines is the next thing to check, too. The primaries get fuel first.

 

Ok did the CAS trick, Fuel pump started up and yes the injectors fired, I'm getting fuel!!!!

Then took the plugs out and they where wet, so cleaned up the plugs cranked the motor with the egi fuse out and plugs still out, did this in total for about 40 sec.

Put the plugs back in, tried to start it and nothing not once did it even fire, pop, catch, nothing!!

It's got me, It appears to have fuel, a spark, air and somewhere to combust. But it wont.

Take it from the top .Ok so before i removed the emissions i had a vac leak that made my idle to about 3000rpm rough. So while sorting that out i got rid of the emissions. The car was fine apart from the vac leak. Emissions are gone, ports are plated over, TB had mod as per Ressurection. All vac ports are blocked up apart from the OMP, pressure sensor, BOV and FPR.

What am i missing?

 

Does the tach needle move/bump a bit when you are trying to Start?

Just in case I got you into trouble> Look at the JPG attached. See the two *pointers* on the top of the CAS (remove the black cover)? First you align the red mark on the pulley with the fixed pointer on the front cover. Then you align the two marks on the bottom CAS gear and insert the CAS in its bore.

Once installed, the CAS shaft might have/probably did move some. But all you have to do, is align those two *pointers* on the CAS to align with the corners of the two black coils inside. I put a Red dot on the coils edges and if I had taken this picutre of the CAS right, the two pointers would have aligned with those two Red dots. Make sense??? Yes it does.

Say, if you go to the lead and trail coils, and remove the small white connectors that supply power and the trigger signal to them, can you spin the CAS bottom gear and still hear the primary injectors click?

And I forgot to mention in my first post, that when you try spinning the CAS to hear the injectors click, that you'd have to jumper the fuel pump check connector (yellow, two socket near the right strut tower) in order for the pump to work. So I'm curious about something you said. You said the pump came on and the injectors injected fuel. I'm curious. Did you have to jumper the fuel pump check connector for the pump to come on? Should have. Spinning the CAS alone won't make the pump come on. The key should have been just to ON and not Start when you did the CAS spinning thing. Not a big deal, just curious.

I might have succeeded in flooding your engine now.

You have spark? That's why I asked twice if the tach needle bumped a bit when you go to Start.

 

Yeah i could here the fuel flowing through the fuel rails. Without jumping the yellow connector, ignition was on and I was turning the CAS gear.

When i started to turn I could here the fuel resistor relay switched, the fuel started to flow, then the clicking of the injector (also felt for the operation).

I checked for a spark by removing the spark plug and holding it by the spark plug cap and placing it against the housing, Girlfriend cranked and I observed the spark. The spark looked pretty standard intensity.

Have you got that JPG, followed the Haynes manual approach for removing the CAS and putting it back, but wasn't happy with the fact that gear was free to move when inserting it back in.

I forgot to check the tac, I thought that was operated by the trailing coils that they dont do much compared to the leading.

Thanks HAILERS your a top geeza!

 

oPPPS Like I said, the pointers are not exactly across from the edge of the black coils in THIS jpg, but this engine would have started just fine anyway.

Anyway, with the mark on the pulley opposite the fixed pin on the front cover, you should be able to rotate the CAS's body til the pointers are opposite the corners of the coils. Then cinch the CAS down.

Trail coils do little for starting as you said. I was curious if the coils were getting a signal from the ECU.

You have spark. Damn thing should have started. Do things a bit different. Get a can of Starting fluid from the auto store. Pull the fuel pump plug apart (located on the back of the left strut tower) to kill the fuel pump. Do not pull the EGI fuse this time.

Now spray the starter fluid in the air filter assy for no more than two seconds or so. That's all that's needed. Try to start the engine. We're using this method so we'll have spark while starting (EGI fuse in). Hopefully it'll at least cough/sputter.

 

Thanks I'll try that approach.

The fuel pump connector by the left strut tower. Is that a left as your sitting in the car or left as your looking into the engine bay? Also what does it look like? 2 pin? colour? etc

Never used starter fluid, should i be at wind open throttle or no throttle at all?

 

sorry to steal your post but im having a very simlar problem. Ive turned the cas hear the pump and fuel going into the lines but wont fire i ve checked spark and fuel pressure. only difference is my spark plugs arnt getting wet. ive poured fuel into the intake and it sputtered. which is good i think. it has to be a grounding issue somewhere.