Hello folks!

I thought since I was in the process, it would be a good idea to make this tutorial.

Toolz needed: A philips screwdriver, a 21mm socket with extension, a rachet or a torque wrench (better!), an allen key, a piece of wire and connectors, and last but not least, some forceful attack .

We undo the 3 screws at the back of the wheel. To do this turn the wheel accordingly to gain access to them.


As soon as the plastic cover comes out, disconnect the wire connector by applying pressure to its clip while pulling away.


Next, undo the nut and pour a little bit of WD-40 on the splines.


Screw the nut back in a few turns, in order to be safe while utilizing the forceful attack we said before.
Keep the wheel centered and to brake it loose try to rock it left-right/up-down while pulling. A few peripheral hits by hand may also be required...
[Normally this procedure requires the Mazda puller, but the forceful attack is also effective.]


After a while of persistence...


I used the Momo hub K5705.


It is crucial to have the arrows aligned and not to rotate the ring while the wheel is off, or damage will be caused when the wheel will be turned afterwards.

 

Top ponting up! The upper hole must be centered at the top so as to keep the new steering wheel aligned, just like the old one. The spline teeth have a thickness that enable the eye to notice any improper angle.


Next the rubber cover is placed in position as shown.


Hand-tighten the nut. Take care not to mess too much with this nut, as it wears every time you turn it.


Place the horn grounding ring...


And tighten the wheel in a cross pattern, just like the rims. Not use too much torque or the wheel will be impossible to loose afterwards. Been there...

 

Make such a wire for the grounding...


Once the wheel is tightened on the hub, we can tighten the nut with the rachet or the torque wrench.
If using a torque wrench, set the tightening torque to 44Nm.



Connect the horn...


And ready!!!


I hope this was helpful!

 

Sorry for the multiple posts... This happened due to the numberof photoz per post restriction.

 

and make sure to put the electrical grease on the back of the hub. i did this same thing and for a while i had a squeak until i greased the copper ring on the back of the hub.

other then that, this is a great tutorial.

 

Thanx for the input! I didn't put any... But it's not squeaking yet. Should it start, I will!

Thanx!

 

there's a good chance you will need a steering wheel puller to get a factory wheel off. you can rent them at auto part stores.

 

Thanx! Good luck!

Get really angry and 80% you won't be needing the puller.

But if you need one you can make a DIY puller by using an iron rod with three holes and three bolts on it. One for each hole of the wheel, and a third centered one with a nut to push the coloumn axle.

I made an approximate sketch:

 

Nice write-up.
Thanks.

Also wheel looks awesome, it's one of my choices to buy.

 

Squeaking started. Grease applied. Squeaking eliminated.
Thanx for the great advice!!!