street_ruler

Year 87
Model: Turbo II
Specifics: bone stock
Miles: 108k
rebuilt? not that i can tell, but healthy and in good shape


Im shooting for 200-210 hp at the wheels and I'm sort of new to the rotary thing. what exactly is needed and what brands/specs of parts are recommended? Can i make this kind of power with a stock sized turbo? how many lbs of boost will that require (10…12….+14)?

Turbo: I'm thinking a BNR rebuilt S4 turbo with the giant ported waste gate.

injectors: what CC for primary and secondary injectors would i need?

boost control: i was thinking a turbo xs manual boost controller for 10-14lbs depending on the answer above.

tuning: can i make this kind of power with an R-tek 1.X series ECU or do i ned to go stand alone?

barkz

iTrader: (1)

"new to the rotary thing", member since 2004?
do some searching this has been covered many many times

MrGoodnight

iTrader: (1)

For 210 wheel you shouldn't need much but Rtek 1.7/1.8 with the proper injectors wouldn't hurt at all.

MrGoodnight

iTrader: (1)

Barkz may come off rude but searching old threads that are full of helpful information is probably the faster than waiting for people to respond.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...680&styleid=17

You will need a Rtek chip or fuel cut defender at minimum to prevent fuel cut at 8.6psi.

You should be able to reach your goals relatively easy.

rxmiles

iTrader: (11)

I am as well interested. I have the same question. I have a 89 TII with good compression and just hit 68k Miles.

I want some low to mild power upgrades, nothing crazy and reliability us my 1st concern.

Here's my thought.

The fuel cut defender or FCD for short is useless to a certain degree as the ECU is not seeing the rise in boost. While defeating the frightful fuel cut the rise in boost could mean that you are going in lean. Not good in my mind.

I want to add the down pipe that I have but am fearful of FCD regardless. I don't want to overboost causing knock.

In this regard I will be investing in proper fuel management prior to adding power. Power without control is useless and costly.

Now since a standalone is not cheap it would be helpful to know what mods are safe before having to go standalone.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

..and that STOPS NOW.
any more remarks like the ones just posted will result in 2 weeks OUT of here.
Don't Test the Theory.
Clean up your Language,BOTH OF YOU.

Stay ON subject,If you can't give any info then do not Post or stay off the thread.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

What's your budget?

I've lived with 230whp for a long while, dd and tracks - stock turbo (ported WG), stock injectors, supra fuel pump, Greddy Profec BII, 3" turbo-back and standalone w/ GOOD tuning.

street_ruler

Budget is open for discussion at the moment. I'd like to stay around a grand to 1500 but I'm not convinced I can. That being said, I'm not opposed to used parts and most if not all labor will be done by me.

I'm sort of trying to stay from a custom tune and stay more "off the shelf" if that makes sense, for this whole build

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

200-210 to the wheels is so very very easily attainable, cheaply:

I'd agree with MrGoodnight, your best bet for the money is an Rtek 1.7 or 1.8, and get 720cc secondaries or both primaries or secondaries, depending on which Rtek you get. If it were me, I'd get 720cc injectors all around to allow for bigger power in the future which, invariably, you will eventually want.

After that, all you really need is a decent exhaust, possibly even a used one in good condition, a downpipe and a "test" pipe, port the wastegate on the turbo and get an electric boost controller like a Greddy Profec-B (to allow for greater control and once again, more gains in the future.)

That should put you right where you want to be for under $1000. Maybe a hair over, depending on the exhaust or if you decide to rebuild the turbocharger.

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

Your correct about the fcd. Raising boost via fcd without adding additional fuel will yield a lean condition.

Everything you mentioned in your original post sounds good. Go for it. Don't listen to any of these f*cktards telling you otherwise, or **** a brick telling you to search. It looks like you already did your research, and just wanted a confirmation. Never a bad thing, and a wise choice.

Good luck and happy rotary day! (every day is rotary day)

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Thread cleaned up, infractions given. Grow the hell up, people.

I'd also like to address a deleted post which read "toss in a boost controller, an FCD, crank up the boost and have fun...".

This is ABSOLUTELY NOT the way to go about things. That approach will most certainly result in a blown engine.

I don't recommend FCDs under any circumstance but if you use them, you must address fuel. Larger secondary injectors and some way to control them (ie. S-AFC).

Best bet though is to just skip all that crap and go right to an RTek.

street_ruler

Thus, why the rtek is on the list.

I don't want insane power just some fun and not a blown motor.

BasCally I'm hearing I'm on the right path so that's good.

Anyone think I'd need a fuel pump? If yes, got any recomendations other than a walbro? Little buggers are noisy What's the stock one rated at?

Silver Comet

iTrader: (12)

Get an FD fuel pump, they're completely plug n play and don't overrun the stock FPR. They support around 300whp so that should have you covered!

Silver Comet

iTrader: (12)

Here is exactly what you'll want if you want to make around 250whp very cheaply and reliably:

1. Rtek 1.7 ECU for your year car. It's all tuned already so you don't have to mess with anything

2. Port your wastegate to prevent boost from creeping (I suggest upgrading to an S5 Turbo and manifold at this point, they can be had for relatively cheap)

3. Keep 550cc Primary injectors and invest in 720cc Secondary Injectors to run the Rtek 1.7 chip

4. Purchase a Manual Boost Controller and Set the boost to 12psi (I use a Hallman MB and have it maxed on the stock spring and it just hits 12 pounds!)

5. An FD Fuel Pump, these can be had for around $50.00 and support the power that you need. Completely plug n play.

6. I suggest deleting all of the cats and emissions equipment and going with a full 3 inch exhaust.

The stock top mount and the stock turbos limits are at 12psi so this set-up is perfectly reliable and cheaply had! If you want to get some added security invest in an AFR, Boost, and Oil pressure gauges to monitor everything but I don't really think that they're necessary at this stage.

Have fun!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The post above me is great advice especially with regards to porting the turbo wastegate.

Here's some instructions: Extreme S4 Wastegate Porting

No real need to remove the cats at that power level though. A high flow cat will easily handle 200HP and the benefit is the car will be cleaner, quieter and more pleasant to drive.

barkz

iTrader: (1)

ill sell you a stocker s4 turbo that you can port or send to bnr as a core. that way you can port off the car, and still drive it, then just slap it in some day when you do all the other stuff.

edit: and yes Aaron, I was being a dick when I told him to throw in an FCD and boost controller. and I take that back. my bad guys.

street_ruler

thinking of getting a BNR unit. turbo has 108k on it already. boasts fine and has no audible issues but miles kill.

barkz

iTrader: (1)

This one has less than 85k and zero shaft play, or leakage anywhere.

rusty FC

iTrader: (7)

cool, looks like i am on the right path also. i have been collecting parts for a couple years now for the 250hp mark and i have everything listed. just need to get some 720cc injectors for the retek 1.8 (i did go with an s5 turbo setup)
i have been able to get all my parts off the forums for pretty cheep you just got to keep looking till you find what you need for a price you like

christianRX7

iTrader: (1)

Just go P Porte with ITBs that way u can be NA or turbo

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If you're only looking for 200 - 250HP, then there's really not much point into going with a BNR hybrid. The stock turbo will put out those numbers easily.

Oh yeah, because it's just that easy...

Mikol

For sure the stock turbo will make those numbers. For 4 years I made 276 whp on stock injectors stock turbo and stock top mount. I did have a street port and a micro tech however with a 255 lph pump. In my opinion a very well balanced power for these cars, especially if you plan on autocross or a time attack event!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

+1. almost what i was going to say. there are two issues with adding more power, the first; airflow is very easy, all you need is a 3" exhaust. the RB turboback/revII system works really nicely, and is really all you need. the second issue is fuel/ECU tuning, and there are a lot of ways to accomplish the correct fueling, so it can be really complicated.

for fuel/tuning, @210rwhp, you should get a larger fuel pump, and the FD pump is great here. it supplies all the fuel you need without overpowering the regulator like a walbro, and its 100% plug in play with the T2 pump.

the stock injectors are ok for 210rwhp, which should occur slightly under 10psi. cleaning them might not be a bad idea if they are original. you can do 720's, but they really aren't needed, and then you need some kind of fuel control to turn them down. you should think about what you really want here, as the 720's will offer you some headroom if you want more power later. you should change both fuel filters too, there is one on the pump.

turbos. the stock turbo is ok for 210rwhp. the S5 controls boost better, and is more responsive, so if you can i'd upgrade to the S5 manifold/turbine housing (the rest of the turbo is the same).

ecu. i used the HKS F-cons in the past and they work great, although my last setup didn't seem to need it. for 210hp, just the FCD will work, although these days i'd use the Rtek 2.0, as this lets you have the FCD, and you can do a little fine tuning. a full standalone isn't needed at this power level.

other stuff: you want a new, or larger than stock radiator, and new thermostat. just to be simple, stable temperatures are good. you need new spark plug wires, the trailings should be separate from each other and the leadings. you should look at the charging system voltage, the harness isn't that great on the S4's, and you can bandaid it with a bigger alternator. everything works better with more voltage, fuel pump, ignition, etc.

my old T2 had basically this setup, RB turbo back, S5 turbo, FD fuel pump, and it was very responsive, boost was instant, and so it was huge fun. power was in the 200rwhp ballpark.

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

subscribed.

sp0ngebob

iTrader: (1)

is the FCON pre-programmed like the Rtek 1.XX series or is it a piggy back ecu that needs tuning?