recommended SAE viscosity numbers
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: I-55 @ I20
recommended SAE viscosity numbers
engine oil API service "fuel efficient" SF
5spd oil API service GL4, GL5
ATF Dexron II
Axle oil API service GL5
pws fluid ATF type F (m2C33F) or dexron II
bearing grease NLGI No. 2 Lithium Base
Brake/clutch FMVSS116, DOT3 or DOT4
I'm trying to nail it to a tee.
engine oil- I don't believe 20w50 is fuel efficient, but is needed for the summer. Also, I cannot a SF grade.
5spd and axle oil- I thought these were the same at first since the only difference in the chart is " GL4 comma GL5 versus GL5 The comma must not mean "or" since they use that in the brake/clutch catergory. So, I have an axle oil that is GL4, GL5-so that should be right as MTF, but I hear Gear oil is not good for the trans. Is it saying I can use a GL4 or a GL5 in the transmission or the insignia on the bottle of oil should read GL4, GL5?
Also, it says for limited-slip differentials to use SAE90, not 80w90 or 75w90-SAE 90 thats righ't. I do not know how to tell how specific we should be about oils and them getting "better" over the years as is with the obsoletion of SF grade motor oil. Just like DOT5 is not "better" than DOT3 or4 it just has a higher boiling point, and I hear it is bad for cars not requiring them.
The way I understand it as fluids become "better" somehow. They must be proven to to what the lower grade and then some with no adverse side effects. Thus the higher rating supercedes the older one and gets moved one position. Like maybe next year there will be a GL6 that would be badass for the axle.
Does this belong at BITOG?
5spd oil API service GL4, GL5
ATF Dexron II
Axle oil API service GL5
pws fluid ATF type F (m2C33F) or dexron II
bearing grease NLGI No. 2 Lithium Base
Brake/clutch FMVSS116, DOT3 or DOT4
I'm trying to nail it to a tee.
engine oil- I don't believe 20w50 is fuel efficient, but is needed for the summer. Also, I cannot a SF grade.
5spd and axle oil- I thought these were the same at first since the only difference in the chart is " GL4 comma GL5 versus GL5 The comma must not mean "or" since they use that in the brake/clutch catergory. So, I have an axle oil that is GL4, GL5-so that should be right as MTF, but I hear Gear oil is not good for the trans. Is it saying I can use a GL4 or a GL5 in the transmission or the insignia on the bottle of oil should read GL4, GL5?
Also, it says for limited-slip differentials to use SAE90, not 80w90 or 75w90-SAE 90 thats righ't. I do not know how to tell how specific we should be about oils and them getting "better" over the years as is with the obsoletion of SF grade motor oil. Just like DOT5 is not "better" than DOT3 or4 it just has a higher boiling point, and I hear it is bad for cars not requiring them.
The way I understand it as fluids become "better" somehow. They must be proven to to what the lower grade and then some with no adverse side effects. Thus the higher rating supercedes the older one and gets moved one position. Like maybe next year there will be a GL6 that would be badass for the axle.
Does this belong at BITOG?
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
http://search.api.org/search?q=cache...ntend&oe=UTF-8
SF is obsolete.
http://www.api.org/certifications/en...ries/index.cfm
And, Bob Is The Oil Guy.
SF is obsolete.
http://www.api.org/certifications/en...ries/index.cfm
And, Bob Is The Oil Guy.
Last edited by HAILERS; Jan 19, 2008 at 05:19 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 152
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From: I-55 @ I20
recommended SAE viscosity numbers
I'm referring to the owner's manual of an 87
The engine oil section kind of makes sense, but it says a 10w30 oil will protect higher than a 5w30. But then a 10w40 will protect as high as a 20w40.
Here's where it gets good- rear axle and manual transmission.
You got to be looking at it to understand, but I don't quite understand whether I should be trying to find a 90w or a 80w90.
The engine oil section kind of makes sense, but it says a 10w30 oil will protect higher than a 5w30. But then a 10w40 will protect as high as a 20w40.
Here's where it gets good- rear axle and manual transmission.
You got to be looking at it to understand, but I don't quite understand whether I should be trying to find a 90w or a 80w90.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 152
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From: I-55 @ I20
What fluids you running
Engine- whatever came with the car, but will go to 20w50 Castrol in the summer and Havoline 10w30 in the winter, or probably whatever oil is on sale
Filter- fram came on it, swapped for a Napa filter and want to go with a K&N, but they say they don't make it but someone here said the HP1004 fits both his accord and the rex
MTF- MT-90. Honestly I don't see anything out there that abides by the manual...since I hear gear oil isn't the best for it.
Rear axle- I bought Coastal 80w90 GL3, GL4, GL5, but will soon change to Kawasaki 80w90 Safe for both differentials
power steering- supertech ATF type F
Brake fluid- just used up the last of the dot3 napa and will replace with a house brand or the prestone.
Currently I am siphoning the brake and power steering fluid. I'll drive a few hours then siphon and refill. I read on here that it is best to assume all your fluids are original, so a couple of quick changes will flush out the deteriorated fluid. I'm pretty good about doing this and maybe a bit over the top, but I want all my fluids to look new.
Filter- fram came on it, swapped for a Napa filter and want to go with a K&N, but they say they don't make it but someone here said the HP1004 fits both his accord and the rex
MTF- MT-90. Honestly I don't see anything out there that abides by the manual...since I hear gear oil isn't the best for it.
Rear axle- I bought Coastal 80w90 GL3, GL4, GL5, but will soon change to Kawasaki 80w90 Safe for both differentials
power steering- supertech ATF type F
Brake fluid- just used up the last of the dot3 napa and will replace with a house brand or the prestone.
Currently I am siphoning the brake and power steering fluid. I'll drive a few hours then siphon and refill. I read on here that it is best to assume all your fluids are original, so a couple of quick changes will flush out the deteriorated fluid. I'm pretty good about doing this and maybe a bit over the top, but I want all my fluids to look new.
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,790
Likes: 3
From: Travis AFB, CA to Okinawa, Japan
Engine: Royal Purple 10w30 winter/ 20w50 summer. Since the store is across the street and only around $6 a quart.
Trans: MT90
Diff: Kaaz fluid (I have the diff)
Prestone 50/50 coolant
Brakes: Valvoline Syn. <-- Its been a couple of years and I need to rebleed again with some fresh fluids.
Trans: MT90
Diff: Kaaz fluid (I have the diff)
Prestone 50/50 coolant
Brakes: Valvoline Syn. <-- Its been a couple of years and I need to rebleed again with some fresh fluids.
Rotorhead
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 39
From: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Engine - Castrol GTX
Manual Transmission - Red Line MT-90
Differential - Red Line 75W90
Coolant - Prestone
Grease - Royal Purple or Mobil 1
Brake Fluid - ATE Super Blue
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ate/a...blue_fluid.jsp
Good idea.
Manual Transmission - Red Line MT-90
Differential - Red Line 75W90
Coolant - Prestone
Grease - Royal Purple or Mobil 1
Brake Fluid - ATE Super Blue
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ate/a...blue_fluid.jsp
Good idea.
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Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 24
From: Rohnert Park CA
5W30 has different sheer and thickness levels than a 10W30.
As covered in the FAQ for FC, (are you reading the FAQ for FC sticky thread found at the top of this section?- it doesn't appear so) the weights are pretty standard:
What oil should I use in the FC?
According to Mazda:
In starting and operating temperatures below 20F, use 5W30
In starting and operating temperatures between 0F and 80F, use 10W30.
In starting and operating temperatures above 30F, use 20W50
As far as brand any good quality oil that meets the API SL or SM standards should be fine.
I personally do not ever recommend the old fashioned 10W40 or 10W50 oils due to the additive packages needed to get to that viscosity range. 20W40 and 20W50 are better choices in higher temp climates due to the higher base stock and less additives needed than using a 10W40.
But http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ and countless reports from manufactures are a good choice for finding out more on how oil works. Remember you want an oil with low ash, and low additive packages for a rotary engine.
as far as the gear oil, 90W is ideal if you can find it, however in most climates 80W90 or 75W90 will also work.
and don't start multiple threads on the same subject. Your multiple threads have been merged.
As covered in the FAQ for FC, (are you reading the FAQ for FC sticky thread found at the top of this section?- it doesn't appear so) the weights are pretty standard:
What oil should I use in the FC?
According to Mazda:
In starting and operating temperatures below 20F, use 5W30
In starting and operating temperatures between 0F and 80F, use 10W30.
In starting and operating temperatures above 30F, use 20W50
As far as brand any good quality oil that meets the API SL or SM standards should be fine.
But http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ and countless reports from manufactures are a good choice for finding out more on how oil works. Remember you want an oil with low ash, and low additive packages for a rotary engine.
as far as the gear oil, 90W is ideal if you can find it, however in most climates 80W90 or 75W90 will also work.
and don't start multiple threads on the same subject. Your multiple threads have been merged.
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