drift13b88

iTrader: (1)

Engine oil.
Sf, sf/cc or sf/cd

limited slip differential.
Sae 90 limited slip lubricant

coolant.
Ethylene glycol

wheel bearing grease.
Nlgi no.2 moly-base

can anyone list some brands that are covered by these specs?

Real answers please no just use castrol answers, lets not forget the bp oil spill, i will never use castrol.

Is mazda coolant good for rotarys?

1988 mazda rx7 gxl 5-speed

drift13b88

iTrader: (1)

HOW MANY QUARTS SHOULD I RUN? 5 OR 6
And what weight oil should i use in new york-longisland? Not stock not turbo

Evil Aviator

So which oil company is OK with you?

How about Valvoline (let's not forget millions of gallons of oil spilled into the Monongahela River)?

Or Exxon/Mobil (let's not forget the Valdez?)

Or Shell/Pennzoil/Quaker State (let's not forget 250 spills in Pennsylvania, 650 spills in West Virginia, and the recent North Sea spill that rivals the BP Deepwater Horizon spill)?

Or Chevron/Havoline (let's not forget tax evasion, the Niger Delta shootings and the Angola oil spills)?

etc, etc, etc.

Are you sure that you are not too liberal to even own a car?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

lol, true, all the oil companies spill a lot, just because its not reported in the news doesn't mean it didn't happen....

engine oil; in a street car? anything slippery is fine, the engine doesn't care, the only thing you're oiling are some huge bearings. in a track car i like castrol HD40. i DO like the OEM mazda filter, which means you need the 2009+ rx8 filter now, the regular part number is some made in the USA thing, and its unknown quality. the japanese stuff is excellent. the previous made in usa filters were so/so. we'd get the occasional one that didn't have good threads.

in the transmission for a street car, you choice of 75-90 weight gear oil mixed 50/50 with ATF. i say your choice, but its more like the only quart that's in the store. in a track car i like the redline 75-90

in the diff i like the redline 75-90.

for the wheel bearings, redline has this stuff called CV2 (i think) comes in a tub, and it works AWESOME.

i do like the mazda coolant, i think its part number 0000-77-501E-02, they have a couple of different flavors, but that's just the normal stuff. its about the same price as parts store stuff.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

/\/\!!!..had too.
Go to an autoX party and make shooters with Castrol,and Dextron II!..
........
anyways Engine: Dinosaur oil.Castrol or anything cheap as it will get dumped in 3000Km anyways.
Trans/Diff : 75w90 and a modifier for the Diff.(royal purple) .I went synthetic on the driveline.
Coolant: regular green stuff mixed 50/50.either premixed or Concentrated.

Derekcat

iTrader: (8)

lol...

Castrol GTX if you can afford it [or find it cheap] 20W-50 unless you live somewhere cold..
If you can't afford it, you could run Chevron - my usual backup oil choice..

For oil filters.. I've always run OEM, WIX or NAPA Gold.

Any Ethylene glycol/distilled water 50:50 should be fine.. I've started adding water wetter to mine. Mostly for additional rust prevention [to protect the irons]

drift13b88

iTrader: (1)

Some of this helped me, i know all the oil companys are screw ups but i wanted to no what oils actually met these specs (SF) not lookin for the cheap route out, i knew i was gunna get lowballed, but yeah ima just man up and pick a case of Idemitsu rotary oil from mazdatrix that was my plan ive always used kendall not the liquid titanium but its getting hard to find these days, was thinking of goin wit even valvoline vr1 as is its a racing oil too, as far as oil filters i like k/n, ive always used royal purple in my trannys, this is my first rx7 with a limited slip ill probly use royal purple too do i need an additive? as far as coolant my boy just did a demo job at a ford dealer and has a large amount of mazda antifreeze so im good there for a while. but u guys should check out mazdatrix ive found some great products fluid wise.

drift13b88

iTrader: (1)

whats a good quart amount, street use, lite track duty, some drag racing, a little drift, im keeping my oil metering pump on too, is it safe to run premix with the omp hooked up?

humer me a little longer, just looking for a lil help. thanks

drift13b88

iTrader: (1)

i know sf means it covers cars from 86-89 and has more anti wear inhibitors then newer types like sj, cd is diesel ive heard of people useing rotella 15w-40 but u couldnt pay my to do that. i know u need an oil that can burn while exiting the omp as is the wrong oil is mostly the reason for fouling. just i cant find a good performance oil that meets (sf) valvoline vr1 has some crazy properties like zinc prosfate and flat tapplets witch i also hear is good for older cars, ect.... im just curious about all this.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the rotary is very easy on oil in a way that most cars aren't. the rotary only has 4 bearings to lubricate and these bearings are HUGE, compared to a piston engine. the racers in the 80's used the SAME BEARINGS at double the power, and up to 5 figure rpms without any trouble.

the burning thing is a non issue, you just stay away from synthetics.

the rotary does use the oil for cooling, so basically you just want to change the oil a lot, so basically you just buy whatever is the cheapest. this is a good thing, BTW.

i've used everything from 5w-20 to straight 40 weight in track cars, and there's no difference, except the 40 weight might foam less.

castrol does have a webpage of specialty oils for older cars, dad and i found when looking for the right oil for my Tr3. we like the castrol HD40. its a nice oil

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

In my NAs, I either use Valvoline 20w-50 or Valvoline VR-50.. depending on how much the car smokes. I will never use Castrol, it is overpriced crap. Just look at independent testing. I'd rather just use cheap Chevron oil.

In my turbos, I always use 20w-50 Idemitstu Rotary oil.

Royal purple is good since it already has the LSD additive in it. However, what I would do is use Red Line (without LSD additive), and drive it around, if it chatters, add a little bit of LSD additive until the chattering goes away. Most of these worn out clutch type LSDs don't even need any additive really.

I've always just pick up some Full Force anti freeze, throw in 1 gallon of that, and fill the rest with distilled water. Full Force is great stuff no joke.

No opinion here, I am sure any wheel bearing grease is just fine. Just go to the auto parts store and pick up there most expensive stuff if you are worried lol.

drift13b88

iTrader: (1)

cool thanks guys those are the answers i was looking for.

rx7 owners can be so harsh lmao. but what can i say im no angel must be them damm rotary gods.

REAmemiya_fan

IMO, Royal Purple full synthetic for the engine. I've never had a problem with it. And as far as trans: Redline MT-90, diff: Redline 75W90.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

waste
of
money


the points have all been covered. synthetics are good if you run the oil longer, but oil in the rotary engine gets fouled quicker. there's no real benefit to the bearings running higher quality cleaner burning oils, you're better off doing the 2 oil changes at the same cost as the synthetic oil change and keeping the internals cleaner.

i've pulled apart 175k mile engines running conventionals and they could have gone twice that before wearing the bearings out. if the OMP is the concern for synthetics, the OMP system is garbage compared to premixing the fuel. almost all of the people who have raced their engines with the OMP had significant chatter wear on the housings, premixed engines nearly none. pulled apart a 30k mile premixed engine that was running nearly 500whp and there was almost no sign of chatter or wear to the housings, even while running the bulkier 3mm OEM seals. housing condition was nearly the same as when i rebuilt it the first time.

Evil Aviator

Most of the oil companies are just fine. Everybody screws up now and then. The difference is that the oil companies get bashed by the leftist press any time they make a mistake. How would you like it if you made a mistake and everybody boycotted and demonized you for the rest of your life?

The SF grade has been superseded by newer grades. Any of the newer S grades are fine as far as anybody knows at this time.

Conventional oil is just fine for the engine. The factory service manual has recommended viscosities. You can download manuals for free. Links are in the FAQ for this section.

Synthetic oil is good for the transmission because it will have notching shifting with conventional oil. I like Red Line MT90, but most other brands are fine. Just don't use Mobil One, which will eat away the synchros.

It depends on whether or not you change the filter, whether or not you have a larger filter, and how much oil drains from the cooler and lines. Plan on about 5.5 qts. I recommend installing the Fumoto oil drain valve F106 (Regular Valve) because it eliminates having to replace the crush washer, allows you to easily drain some oil in the case of over-filling or for taking an oil sample, and if you have a low-profile drain pan you can change the oil without jacking up the car.
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

The capacities are listed in the factory service manual.

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

I always throw in 5 quarts exactly myself.. now if you drain the oil cooler as well that's when you need to throw in 6. But how ever drains the oil cooler when changing their oil?