I am trying to find a rebulit lsd from a 1986-1988 GXL so i can put in my 1986 base model. Or is better of buying a Mazdaspeed 1.5 or 2.0 way for a FC which is very rare to find. Just buy a brand new one from www.kaazusa.com

 

Good god just buy a good used one from the FS board. the aftermarkets are super expensive and my 115k mile gxl LSD is perfectly fine and working. Get one from an automatic and swap the ring gears to keep the same ratio and you'll be guaranteed a good working one.

 

im just posting on this thread to avoid creating another for no reason but is similar to this one. what i want to know is that will any year GXL, between 86-88, bolt right on my 86 n/a? also is that the only one that would bolt on without changing/modifying/customizing anything? obviously i have an open diff. and i want to get lsd so please help on some info. one more thing, what exactly would i have to swap(internals only or what)?

 

All FC NA diffs are interchangeable. S4's have clutch packs, S5's are viscous. The same applies to the TII diffs.

 

so i could just buy the whole thing and swap it with no problems?no changing of anything? sorry if it's that clear but i'm just trying to make sure. how long does it take?an estimate?

 

Bump

 

You mean TII and NA are interchangeable? I dont think so. I thought the NA's used the same dif size as the miatas and the TII's used the same size as the FD's?

 

oh and before a mod yells at you, you cant bump in this forum

 

It is practically impossible that the clutch packs in a clutch LSD would last perfectly 115k miles unless you're car has never even seen moderate acceleration, moderate speed turns, or weak traction.

You could buy a used one, but keep in mind that most wore out before the 50k mile mark at least noticeably. Also note that replacing the clutch packs off (from mazdatrix) costs approx $400 +labor.

In th meantime, a new torsion lsd from say mazdamotorsports never wears out (unless you're packing a lot lot of hp) and is often about the same price as a used clutch lsd and rebuild

 

so the torsion bolts right on to the n/a's base models no problem? because my whole point is to not have to change much stuff. is it a lot better than the clutch ones?

 

what he means is all n/a diffs are interchangeable, all t2 diffs are interchangeable into their respective type of car.

clutch type LSDs are tougher to break but do wear out the clutch packs, there is nothing to wear in the torsen differentials but they are weaker by design and do not instantly grip as one wheel has to spin before they both grab. a common upgrade for the FD guys is to swap in a S4 T2 differential carrier and clutch packs, take a guess which you think is better.

 

oh cool then i know which one to get. thanks everyone for all your guy's help. can i rebuild my own lsd?

 

The Torsen...by far.

In every application I can think of, sans drag racing, a Torsen does a finer job than a clutch style LSD. Not only does it aide traction, but it transforms how the car feels. This can be better witnessed while driving in low traction conditions such as rain & snow. Torsens are butter smooth, and while its hard to explain on a forum - they make the car easier to drive at the limit. Torsen explains it by saying something to the effect of: '...when one tire loses traction, more torque is sent to the other.' Traction & control...too bad it comes at a price.

My experience with clucth style & torque bias LSDs is with a Mustang Cobra. Having had a worn LSD, then re-packed, then re-packed again and lastly forking out $$$ for a Torsen T2R - I felt stupid for not doing so earlier. The car understeered less, was easier to control power oversteer, the inner tire would never spin, and the overall 'feel' of the car was much much better. I cannot say enough good things about the Torsen product.

I understand that a Mustang is a much different platform and carrier - but in my experience, I have had zero problems with the Torsen. My Cobra is heavy, powerful, has a damn good suspension (for a Mustang) and I usually drive on R-Compounds for street tires. It has taken its share of abuse and has held up just fine...but then again, I've never drag raced.

My $0.02

 

I'm sorry to say but your cluch style diff. wearing out would most likely be a bad installation of the unit.... a GM Posi unit is a clutch style diff. and they last for 200k miles without wearing out. My GXL diff. has almost no wear at 125 k miles ( unit has been removed and disassembled, and clearances check). and the gear lube i removed from the unit had the consistancy of scrambled eggs( on the liquidy side)

 

Just for the record, the Torsen diff through www.mazdamotorsports.com (you have to be a member by racing) is 758.45. This is actually the diff for the 1.8 Miata, but the person I called told me this is what was used for the FC. Might want to make sure, though. You can also get a torsen unit from mazdatrix for 908.45, I'm not sure if its the same unit, but I suspect it is.
That said, you can also find a miata with the torsen and swap in the internals, but it sounds like you dont want to have to do this.

 

it's all personal preference, i would rather stick with my clutches because i know how they are going to react, they GRAB.

 

is it easy to rebuild a clutch type lsd? or do i have to take it somewhere to get it rebuild no matter what.

 

is it easy or do i have to take it to go get rebuilt? anyone know?