Alright guys. . .I love my car. She's got 140k on it and the exterior and most of the interior is close to mint. But she has a little white smoke at start up, but goes away once she gets warm. But Ive been fighting the same coolant and hunting problem for awhile now. Took it Mitchum and he put a compression test on and found a leak only in the lower rad hose, but she still leaks into the overflow tank, and boiling in it. I'm thinking it could be the thermostat I replaced, which is oem, but im pretty sure is 18 psi.. . and my cap is 15. could that be it? My mechanic said he believes my engines fried but I'm not too sure myself. he also said a rebuild would cost almost 3-4 grand. if I did rebuild what would be the best to get? it's n/a, and Ive been researching my *** off and found a bunch of mixed opinions. .? I really need help SOON. If not, I gotta sell it and buy summin else. . .

 

no one with any advice?

 

fix it. and post some pics please.

 

As far as rebuild you could do it yourself for less than that 3-4k price tag your mechanic gave you, but there are risks if you don't know what your doing or don't have the proper equipment. What year is the car? You could probably pick up a running engine and swap it in as well, that should be relatively cheap as long as you just stick with n/a. Oh and one last thing, is your mechanic rotary savvy? Because I would't trust his judgment on the "fried engine" thing unless he actually knew what he was talking about. Would you let an optometrist(sp?) do surgery on your heart?

 

well thats the thing. . .It's an 87, and i got referred to him by someone from this site. And he didn't really know how to check the TPS!? I asked him if he thought a coolant seal could be in the picture, and to do a comp. check to narrow it down. And he asked " so you want me to put a test on the motor or the coolant system. . .or?". Yea, I was like wtf. He put the test on the coolant lines and found one leak in the bottom rad hose. thats it. maybe he tested without draining properly, i dunno. But I feel like i have to baby sit to make sure things are done right. . .could it be my ign. timing thats casuing the coolant push into the overflow tank?

 

Take it to a Rotary Mechanic and see what he says.
You can rebuild yourself for cheaper then 3-4k, or you can send it to RotaryRessurection (Can I say this name here) for a budget rebuild. (1k for base, maybe $1500 if you need parts)

 

Thats a problem. . .I can't find ANY rotary mechanics in the area at all. It's getting ridiculus.

 

I would just buy another motor. I'm in the process of doing that and using my old motor to play around with when i'm bored.

 

pm sent

 

Rebuilding is the best way to learn. Aslong as you have the time and can do w/o the car for a bit.

 

I don't really have the proper tools though. . atleast for a complete rebuild. I could go ahead and purchase them now for future use aswell I guess. . .I'm sure they'd come in handy. I was thinking about getting a rebuild kit, but I don't know how far the damage runs if any. and I can't really drive my car cause the coolant keeps pushing into the resevoir until it starts to overflow out the tube. And when it gets to op. temps, it hunts like mad, backfires a bit more, and jerks a lot. . .so I'm thinking of a rebuilt motor and swapping out. . .any good known shops I could look into?

 

no rebuild ideas?