rymnryan

iTrader: (1)

i have tried so hard to figure this out by myself but , i am in desperate need of out side opinion. i just rebuilt my motor and performed a small port job. the port job is so small it is hard to call it a port job, lets call it a heavy cleaning. i put it in the car (87 GXL)put everything on it that was on it before the motor was taken out. Now it doesn't start. it turns over and catches a little and then floods. i have checked the primary injectors (their ohm rating and whether of not they were leaking) they are perfect i traded out coils , double checked if i but the timing gear on the e-shaft correctly and messed around with the timing but nothing. it just catches a few times an floods. i get no error codes and i have checked the ohm ratings and continuity on the MAF and many other sensors and relays and what not.
Please tell me you have some idea about what the hell is going on with my car.
(this thing is so ungrateful. i have blown two motors in this thing one on the way to Rotorfest 2003 and the other leaving Rotorfest this year)


HELP

Parastie

You're goign to have to check everything from the beginning.

Make sure there is fuel/air and spark.
Also, you might try a little ATF to help build the compression up a bit before starting. Also make sure you have a fully charged battery, you might have to let the engine crank for a full minute so the seals will settle enough to not flood. Make sure you pull the EFI fuse.

drago86

an NA shouldnt be blowing motors like that,.. but on the starting problem rebuilds are generally very hard to start, make sure you battery is charged up and the timming is as close as you can get it. On mine it i had to take the plugs out and let them dry out/ clean them off after it flooded to get it to start,.. take the plugs out , dry em off and let it sit with the plugs out for 15 mins then put em back in and tryu and start it again,.. a little gas may help it when it tries to catch,.. if it floods again try just doing the standard unflood and try and start it again, do that untill its getting no where and pull the plugs again,.. once it starts and runs fo awhile you shouldnt ever have to do this again.

also dont hit on the started for more then like 20 second at a time and then alow it to cool a bit... you can overheat it.

ilike2eatricers

First suggestion is to stop going to Rotorfest. New engines sometimes have trouble starting so you may have to unflood it first and then squirt some oil in the combustion chamber and crank it up. Make sure you are getting fuel, air, and spark. Be persistent.

ilike2eatricers

Damn all you guys posted the same time as me.

White_FC

Quite probably has very low compression depending on the quality of stuff you returned into the motor.

My first rebuild I did (before it shat a water seal.. Grr my fault..) had reaaallly low compression before it was ran for an hour or so, then it was fine.

I ended up getting someone to tow me along and then tow starting the car. Worked perfectly.

If it catches and then floods it is mostly likely a low compression problem and not something you´ve put back wrong. (unless it has a huge vacume leak)

rymnryan

iTrader: (1)

i have fuel, air and spark. I got the kit for atkins. i haven't put oil in since i put it togetherbut makes sense about oil or atf helping compression because the first time i tried to start it there was oil in there and that is when it cuaght the strongest but i accidently let go of the key. i have been unflooding the motor since friday i think i have probably done it about 25 times. so basically you guy think it is a compression issue of a typical rebuild because that would be sweet and all i have to do is keep trying i will do the atf thing and keep at it.
i have been getting so pissed off at this thing. the first time i put the motor together a water seal fell out of place and coolant came out of the side of the motor. it has not been a pleasurable experience.

thanks

ilike2eatricers

Be sure to let your starter get a breather every couple of cranks and make sure your battery is fully charged.

rymnryan

iTrader: (1)

yeah i give it time to cool down and i have a charger on the battery.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

try running a jumper wire with a toggle switch to your fuel pump relay control circuit, you can cut fuel and it works 10x better than the EGI fuse trick. the EGI fuse trick wouldn't work for me so i hard wired a fuel cut toggle switch to the relay so i can manually crank the engine without the fuel pump running as rebuilds tend to flood out too easily.

flip the switch on for a second with the ignition key on to prime the system then turn it off, crank the engine until it clears and fires, after it runs for about 3 seconds turn your fuel pump switch on and it should be able to stay running.


it is a nice feature to have even for any rotary, rebuilt or not as they like to flood out whenever is the most inconvenient.

rymnryan

iTrader: (1)

Well the atf is working great i can start it but it won't run on it own. every time i do it the rpm is easier to hold but now every time i run it for more than a few minutes my header gets cherry red (racing beat header) an all of the atf in my exhaust ignites. How long should i have to do the atf trick before it holds idle?

Parastie

Shouldn't take too long depening on the housing.

Also, is the RB header suppose to be bright red at idle?? You might be leened out to much.

LT8TurboII

iTrader: (2)

You need to restab your CAS, I'd bet your timing is WAY retarded.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If everything else checks out, a push start almost never fails. New seals, especially Mazda seals, don't seal very well on used rotor housings. They sometimes need some help getting bedded in...

rymnryan

iTrader: (1)

timing should be fine i lined up the marks on the CAS and on the pulley and center the CAS that is were it usualy sits i can't make it perfect until it runs on its own. I have used almost two quarts of ATF and have probably done the procedure about ten times. what bothers me the most is that i can let it run for to long without the exhuast catching on fire. and i feel like by now it should at least have some ambition to run on its own. it is raining right now here which means i have to put the car in the garage and when i start it it smokes the place up. i will continue tomorrow.

Thanks All

Corbit

ya sounds familair, I'm going threw the same thing kinda , it does sound like timing , also your cat may be glogged. my cat was clowing red till I hollowed it out. ALso check to make sure you have the injectors plugged in to the correct lead good luck keep us posted
What was the resone you had to rebuild?

frankiefingers

Their is a white 6 prong electric connecter on the drivers side under the dash.By disconnecting it, you shut off the fuel pump,no more flooding.When the engine starts,immediatly connect this connecter.The engine will continue to run.I cut one of the six wires that controlls the fuel pump and inserted a toggle switch that I mounted on the dash because this is a common problem on these cars as they get older.It seems if the car runs for less then an hour,when you go to restart it,it tends to flood.When this happens,I shut off the fuel pump,car starts right up and immediatly turn on pump.Good luck!

rymnryan

iTrader: (1)

i rebuilt the motor because i blew a seal. it wasn't a bad blow i had to replace the rotor but the housing was fine. the cat isn't clogged (i don't have one) he he he . i like the pump switch idea.

Peruvianrx7

iTrader: (25)

1. check all grounds
2. check all the electric ****- CAS, COILS, THE CONNECTIONS ON THSI GET DIRTY CLEAN THEM!~!!!, check the ECU, **** replace teh wntire wiring harness if u need too.
3. DO a poor mans compression check to make sure u getting 3 continous pshhhhh sounds
4. RECHAREG TEH **** out of teh battery, and try starting it with out teh fuel plug on.
5. check under the steerring wheel, right above the gas pedal ( not on it but above it) there is a white plug u cant miss it, unplug it and with the fuel pump switch connected and your foot on the gas try starting it . as soon as it starts connect the plug back in and whhhaaala!!!!

Peruvianrx7

iTrader: (25)

my bad i forgot to read above me someone else explained the process for my number 5 much better. MAD PROPS YO!!

rymnryan

iTrader: (1)

i can get the thing to start rather easily using atf but it is really rough the lower the idle gets the motor shakes like a son of bitch. and the red hot header is making me really nervous. today i had it running for about 30 minutes and the redness spread to the rest of the exhaust, the inside of the muffler even. i have to keep the idle at around 1500 any lower than that and it is hard to bring it back up.

Parastie

Your timing is off rymnryan, it has to be. Get the car started and adjust the CAS.

rymnryan

iTrader: (1)

timing? alright i'll recheck it. also the car sounds like a single engine prop plane.
it is louder than a ****.

Parastie

ARe you sure all the plugs are sparking as well? It's possible that you're only running on one rotor.

rymnryan

iTrader: (1)

yeah all the plugs are firing i put a timing light on them. it wasn't the timing either i had had it slightly advanced and when i put i back i couldn't even rev it up and the header got more red faster. i guess i just have to keep running it but it is sketchy. i had some one watch the header while i kept it running and he said that the rear one gets red first. i just want the damn thing to run.