Rebuilt engine
08-07-05, 10:40 AM
#28
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Location: Brampton, Ontario
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Well, I'm not saying that isn't common, but that's the first I've heard of that! I believe the usual technique is lots of petroleum jelly.
Superglue just sounds like a really really bad idea to me!!
Superglue just sounds like a really really bad idea to me!!
08-07-05, 12:48 PM
#30
The mystery of the prize.
superglue is fine, its all gone by now.
when you torque down the tension bolts you usually hear the superglue cracking, if not then when you first turn the eccentric shaft a few times after assembly you will hear snapping. it's the super glue on apex seals giving.
I believe you said you do not have the BACV, on the T2 the BACV also has the idle bypass passage on it with an adjustment screw. With it just blocked off the idle may be too low, you might be able to get it up with the throttle stop screw or put a BACV on it just leaving it unplugged and use the idle adjust screw on the BACV.
when you torque down the tension bolts you usually hear the superglue cracking, if not then when you first turn the eccentric shaft a few times after assembly you will hear snapping. it's the super glue on apex seals giving.
I believe you said you do not have the BACV, on the T2 the BACV also has the idle bypass passage on it with an adjustment screw. With it just blocked off the idle may be too low, you might be able to get it up with the throttle stop screw or put a BACV on it just leaving it unplugged and use the idle adjust screw on the BACV.
08-08-05, 08:09 PM
#35
The mystery of the prize.
1: put miles on the motor, this means drive it around town and on the highway, try to vary the rpms and loads but don't flog it yet.
2: go over everything, set the ecu in diag mode and see if there are any codes, maybe you have something messed up that is making it harder to start than it should be.
2: go over everything, set the ecu in diag mode and see if there are any codes, maybe you have something messed up that is making it harder to start than it should be.
08-13-05, 01:46 PM
#40
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tried that, drove around awhile, still wouldnt even try to start. checked the plugs again and they are dry, everyone talks about flooding problems and i cant even get mine to start with ether.
08-13-05, 03:21 PM
#41
The mystery of the prize.
if you can hold a reasonable idle rpm with your foot on the throttle and get it to start with your foot on the throttle you just need more air bypassing the throttle. either adjust a idle bleed screw or the throttle stop.
08-19-05, 09:23 AM
#45
Well i put it in the air and let it go in fourth gear for about 3 hours and when i took my stick off the gas pedal and tried to rev up alittle bit it dies. And then it doesn't start anymore. This gets aggrevating sometimes because i wanted to be driving my 7 instead of worring about a 240 insurance a month of my intrepid.
08-19-05, 12:15 PM
#47
Pull your oxygen sensor.
Now what colour is it?
Black- your runnin way to rich
brown - your a/fs are decent where they should be
White - you're starving your car for fuel
since i was too lazy to read the rest of your post i assume you put your fuel system back to stock? Do not try to break in an engine on different fuel setup that isnt tuned properly!
brandon
Now what colour is it?
Black- your runnin way to rich
brown - your a/fs are decent where they should be
White - you're starving your car for fuel
since i was too lazy to read the rest of your post i assume you put your fuel system back to stock? Do not try to break in an engine on different fuel setup that isnt tuned properly!
brandon
08-20-05, 09:10 AM
#49
Hopefully its getting better because for some reason the puffs are getting quiter which isn't good. But when it runs it doesn't really sound like a lower compression so that is the only things that bugs me. I might have to end up taking it apart to check it out. Any input?