Superglue?! You used superglue on the apex seals??

 

Yea to keep the three piece seals together like i was told.

 

Well, I'm not saying that isn't common, but that's the first I've heard of that! I believe the usual technique is lots of petroleum jelly.

Superglue just sounds like a really really bad idea to me!!

 

can anyone else say anything about this? Am i goin to have to take the engine back apart?

 

superglue is fine, its all gone by now.

when you torque down the tension bolts you usually hear the superglue cracking, if not then when you first turn the eccentric shaft a few times after assembly you will hear snapping. it's the super glue on apex seals giving.

I believe you said you do not have the BACV, on the T2 the BACV also has the idle bypass passage on it with an adjustment screw. With it just blocked off the idle may be too low, you might be able to get it up with the throttle stop screw or put a BACV on it just leaving it unplugged and use the idle adjust screw on the BACV.

 

ok. So should I use the n/a primaries then too or is okay to use the Tii injectors with the Tii ecu?

 

It is fine to use the TII injectors with the TII ECU

 

And is there some precedure to get an engine to start itself, like driving on the highway for awhile or sudden hard loads or something?

 

^ dont understand your ?

 

1: put miles on the motor, this means drive it around town and on the highway, try to vary the rpms and loads but don't flog it yet.

2: go over everything, set the ecu in diag mode and see if there are any codes, maybe you have something messed up that is making it harder to start than it should be.

 

I got the tps code but got a good tps coming in a week and thats the only one. Other than that, doesn't seem like much else is wrong other than the not starting itself and not idling.

 

I let some MMO sit in the motor for like a day and went to start it and to my surprise it actually started itself pretty quick. Still dies though.

 

well your at least doing better than me I just rebuilt mine and it cranks but wont start

 

Well mine did that so i got someone to pull me in gear at i started up. So i assumed its the compression since it runs alright.

 

tried that, drove around awhile, still wouldnt even try to start. checked the plugs again and they are dry, everyone talks about flooding problems and i cant even get mine to start with ether.

 

if you can hold a reasonable idle rpm with your foot on the throttle and get it to start with your foot on the throttle you just need more air bypassing the throttle. either adjust a idle bleed screw or the throttle stop.

 

Well im driving it around alittle bit more and it seems like its starting easier and actually idles aroun 1500 for acouple of seconds after driving. Still got to fix some electrical things though.

 

^ Were you at home depot the other day in the 7? I tryd to chase you down befor you went in but slow drivers couldent get around. I was in the rx8

 

Nah i went down 15th to 231 and drove to star ave. and back home.

 

Well i put it in the air and let it go in fourth gear for about 3 hours and when i took my stick off the gas pedal and tried to rev up alittle bit it dies. And then it doesn't start anymore. This gets aggrevating sometimes because i wanted to be driving my 7 instead of worring about a 240 insurance a month of my intrepid.

 

Hey so where is the throttle stop screw? I got the one on the front of the TB and a smaller one on the back. Oh and which way does it need to turn to idle higher.

 

Pull your oxygen sensor.

Now what colour is it?

Black- your runnin way to rich

brown - your a/fs are decent where they should be

White - you're starving your car for fuel

since i was too lazy to read the rest of your post i assume you put your fuel system back to stock? Do not try to break in an engine on different fuel setup that isnt tuned properly!

brandon

 

Well i left the Tii injectors in since i have the Tii ECU and Tii everything else except for the 6-port block.

 

Hopefully its getting better because for some reason the puffs are getting quiter which isn't good. But when it runs it doesn't really sound like a lower compression so that is the only things that bugs me. I might have to end up taking it apart to check it out. Any input?

 

Is all that crap in the cooling system just the hylomar and other assembly lube?