Rebuilt engine
08-04-05, 07:28 AM
#1
Rebuilt engine
How long does it usually take before the engine will start up easier and idle? If I hold the key for a minute or two(I know its not good) it will start and run, if I keep my foot on the gas alittle. The throttle screw is as tight as it goes and there is no BAC with the idle screw.
08-04-05, 07:36 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Alabama just east of B'ham
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Give us more information on your engine. What new and used parts you have? The condition of the rotor housings? How many miles or time on the new engine?
08-04-05, 07:42 AM
#3
Its an 88 n/a motor with the same housings and rotors off of it at around 120,000 miles. New rotary avaition soft seals and the hard seals are the old ones within specs since the recently purchased hard seals were a scam. Everything was in spec. got atleast 3 hours on the new engine. Its a custom na turbo project so it has no emissions or BAC, BACV, EGR, Cold start and has 87 Tii primary and secondary injectors running premix with an FD pump. Did a comp test on it just for fun and had around 40 to 50 on all faces of both rotors.
08-04-05, 08:51 AM
#6
ERTW
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
are you sure you didn't do a compression test when the engine was a little flooded?
those injectors and fuel pump have the possibility to dump a lot of fuel unecessarily if you are not tuned well...
do a proper compression test:
run the engine until hot, then instead of turning the car off with the key, let it die by pulling the fuel pump fuse. this will suck all fuel from the system.
you have no reason to stick ATF in the engine at this point, don't do it.
those injectors and fuel pump have the possibility to dump a lot of fuel unecessarily if you are not tuned well...
do a proper compression test:
run the engine until hot, then instead of turning the car off with the key, let it die by pulling the fuel pump fuse. this will suck all fuel from the system.
you have no reason to stick ATF in the engine at this point, don't do it.
08-04-05, 08:54 AM
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bossier City, LA
Posts: 984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldnt put ATF in there for a couple days. You arent supposed to leave it in there that long.
As far as MMO goes...I dont think that has any harmful affects on seals.
As far as MMO goes...I dont think that has any harmful affects on seals.
Trending Topics
08-04-05, 08:55 AM
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bossier City, LA
Posts: 984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by coldfire
do a proper compression test:
run the engine until hot, then instead of turning the car off with the key, let it die by pulling the fuel pump fuse. this will suck all fuel from the system.
run the engine until hot, then instead of turning the car off with the key, let it die by pulling the fuel pump fuse. this will suck all fuel from the system.
I thought you were supposed to do a compression test when the engine is cold to warm...not full operating temps.
Someone please correct me if Im wrong.
go to www.rotaryresurrection.com and click on the TECH section and you can see how to do a compression test.
08-04-05, 08:58 AM
#9
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 109 Likes
on
92 Posts
You need more then 3 hours of runtime. You need to get some miles onto that engine.
Also, with those injectors and fuel pump, it's going to run super rich. That will make any small problems much more obvious. Either swap back to your 460 primaries, or get something to control fuel.
Also, with those injectors and fuel pump, it's going to run super rich. That will make any small problems much more obvious. Either swap back to your 460 primaries, or get something to control fuel.
08-04-05, 08:58 AM
#10
Locust of the apocalypse
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Directly above the center of the earth (York, PA)
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
If you are running TII (550) primary injectors on an N/A ecu.. your flodding the car out....
We had the same problem on Torbo23's new rebuild, the Haltech wiring harness he got was buggared up and one of the injectors was full on all the time.. It would eventually fire, but you had to hold it 1/4 to the floor to keep it running and then it stank and ran like ***...
what ECU are you using and I'm assuming that you have an SAFC in the car for fuel control/???
We had the same problem on Torbo23's new rebuild, the Haltech wiring harness he got was buggared up and one of the injectors was full on all the time.. It would eventually fire, but you had to hold it 1/4 to the floor to keep it running and then it stank and ran like ***...
what ECU are you using and I'm assuming that you have an SAFC in the car for fuel control/???
08-04-05, 08:59 AM
#11
I have a fuel cut swtich installed. For some reason when i crank it when off it almost starts and then i turn it on and then it floods. I can get it started if i leave the swtich off till it gets really close though. I did the test when warm and no fuel pressure.
08-04-05, 08:59 AM
#12
ERTW
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by xtremeskier97
I thought you were supposed to do a compression test when the engine is cold to warm...not full operating temps.
Someone please correct me if Im wrong.
go to www.rotaryresurrection.com and click on the TECH section and you can see how to do a compression test.
Someone please correct me if Im wrong.
go to www.rotaryresurrection.com and click on the TECH section and you can see how to do a compression test.
yes, you are right, you should also do a compression test that way.
however i suggested this because he is wanting to know his max compression number and to eliminate the possibility of fuel affecting the compression #s
08-04-05, 09:00 AM
#13
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bossier City, LA
Posts: 984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by coldfire
yes, you are right, you should also do a compression test that way.
however i suggested this because he is wanting to know his max compression number and to eliminate the possibility of fuel affecting the compression #s
however i suggested this because he is wanting to know his max compression number and to eliminate the possibility of fuel affecting the compression #s
ah..ok.
08-04-05, 09:01 AM
#14
I have the Tii parts like the front cover,pressure sensor,afm,harness and ecu and a cobalt a/f guage . It runs just above stoich and around 3000 rpms it runs in the middle of rich. I was thinking of putting the n/a primaries back in but have to order a UIM gasket.
08-04-05, 09:05 AM
#15
I might have mixed some wiring though because after i routed it to the injectors for some reason there were two white plugs that fit the alternator and the IAC on the back of the UIM. But it wouldn't reach the alternator and all the idiot lights stay on and there is some beeping somewhere but its not the same on as the oil level or coolant sensor one. Also the knock contol box and sensor are not on it.
08-04-05, 10:10 AM
#17
you really need to change those injectors to smaller injectors. Why do you have those big ones on it anyways? Changing them out will more than likely prove a benefit when trying to start your motor. Also how can the apex seals be within spec after 120k miles. Mine where worn even after just 60k miles. Anyways good luck man.
08-04-05, 10:17 AM
#18
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 109 Likes
on
92 Posts
Well, if you are using the TII ECU, then don't worry about the size of the injectors. However, you will still run a little rich with that fuel pump.
The "problem" is that it's just a fresh engine.
Depending on what you reuse, it can take several hundred miles of actual driving before it starts and idles on it's own. Just running it in the driveway won't help very much, as it needs to be under load to break in.
The "problem" is that it's just a fresh engine.
Depending on what you reuse, it can take several hundred miles of actual driving before it starts and idles on it's own. Just running it in the driveway won't help very much, as it needs to be under load to break in.
08-04-05, 10:43 AM
#19
Passing life by
Originally Posted by Houstonderk
I might have mixed some wiring though because after i routed it to the injectors for some reason there were two white plugs that fit the alternator and the IAC on the back of the UIM. But it wouldn't reach the alternator and all the idiot lights stay on and there is some beeping somewhere but its not the same on as the oil level or coolant sensor one.
Originally Posted by Houstonderk
Also the knock contol box and sensor are not on it.
08-05-05, 09:33 AM
#20
So does the air control motor on the back of the UIM control the idle even when the power steering is not working as like not turning the wheel? I have power steering, but that motor isn't hooked up, but it dies even when idling staying still.
Anyways, so should i change those primary injectors to the n/a's if i dont have an aftermarket fuel controller yet?
08-06-05, 12:23 AM
#24
Passing life by
^ no. Advancing the timing will jump up your idle but is not a good solution. If you need to idle higher try the fast idle cam adjustment screw on the TB plates. The BACV as well if you still have it.