How long does it usually take before the engine will start up easier and idle? If I hold the key for a minute or two(I know its not good) it will start and run, if I keep my foot on the gas alittle. The throttle screw is as tight as it goes and there is no BAC with the idle screw.

 

Give us more information on your engine. What new and used parts you have? The condition of the rotor housings? How many miles or time on the new engine?

 

Its an 88 n/a motor with the same housings and rotors off of it at around 120,000 miles. New rotary avaition soft seals and the hard seals are the old ones within specs since the recently purchased hard seals were a scam. Everything was in spec. got atleast 3 hours on the new engine. Its a custom na turbo project so it has no emissions or BAC, BACV, EGR, Cold start and has 87 Tii primary and secondary injectors running premix with an FD pump. Did a comp test on it just for fun and had around 40 to 50 on all faces of both rotors.

 

I believe that's really low compression, even for a fresh rebuild. I can get over 30 PSI by cranking it over *by hand* on an engine stand.

 

Should i put some MMO or ATF in the engine for a couple of days or something?

 

are you sure you didn't do a compression test when the engine was a little flooded?
those injectors and fuel pump have the possibility to dump a lot of fuel unecessarily if you are not tuned well...
do a proper compression test:
run the engine until hot, then instead of turning the car off with the key, let it die by pulling the fuel pump fuse. this will suck all fuel from the system.

you have no reason to stick ATF in the engine at this point, don't do it.

 

I wouldnt put ATF in there for a couple days. You arent supposed to leave it in there that long.

As far as MMO goes...I dont think that has any harmful affects on seals.

 

I thought you were supposed to do a compression test when the engine is cold to warm...not full operating temps.

Someone please correct me if Im wrong.

go to www.rotaryresurrection.com and click on the TECH section and you can see how to do a compression test.

 

You need more then 3 hours of runtime. You need to get some miles onto that engine.

Also, with those injectors and fuel pump, it's going to run super rich. That will make any small problems much more obvious. Either swap back to your 460 primaries, or get something to control fuel.

 

If you are running TII (550) primary injectors on an N/A ecu.. your flodding the car out....

We had the same problem on Torbo23's new rebuild, the Haltech wiring harness he got was buggared up and one of the injectors was full on all the time.. It would eventually fire, but you had to hold it 1/4 to the floor to keep it running and then it stank and ran like ***...

what ECU are you using and I'm assuming that you have an SAFC in the car for fuel control/???

 

I have a fuel cut swtich installed. For some reason when i crank it when off it almost starts and then i turn it on and then it floods. I can get it started if i leave the swtich off till it gets really close though. I did the test when warm and no fuel pressure.

 

yes, you are right, you should also do a compression test that way.

however i suggested this because he is wanting to know his max compression number and to eliminate the possibility of fuel affecting the compression #s

 

ah..ok.

 

I have the Tii parts like the front cover,pressure sensor,afm,harness and ecu and a cobalt a/f guage . It runs just above stoich and around 3000 rpms it runs in the middle of rich. I was thinking of putting the n/a primaries back in but have to order a UIM gasket.

 

I might have mixed some wiring though because after i routed it to the injectors for some reason there were two white plugs that fit the alternator and the IAC on the back of the UIM. But it wouldn't reach the alternator and all the idiot lights stay on and there is some beeping somewhere but its not the same on as the oil level or coolant sensor one. Also the knock contol box and sensor are not on it.

 

Oh you know what that motor on the back of the UIM isn't plugged in because of that wiring thing.

 

you really need to change those injectors to smaller injectors. Why do you have those big ones on it anyways? Changing them out will more than likely prove a benefit when trying to start your motor. Also how can the apex seals be within spec after 120k miles. Mine where worn even after just 60k miles. Anyways good luck man.

 

Well, if you are using the TII ECU, then don't worry about the size of the injectors. However, you will still run a little rich with that fuel pump.

The "problem" is that it's just a fresh engine. Depending on what you reuse, it can take several hundred miles of actual driving before it starts and idles on it's own. Just running it in the driveway won't help very much, as it needs to be under load to break in.

 

You have the alt wired wrong or bad alt. The plug on the back of the alt on your S4 is black and brown. These wires go to the emissions harness. Do a search for this under my name or MARTIN's name as I posted a diagram on this for him.
Not applicble unless you used the TII harness or rewired your NA harness for it.

 

So does the air control motor on the back of the UIM control the idle even when the power steering is not working as like not turning the wheel? I have power steering, but that motor isn't hooked up, but it dies even when idling staying still.

 

Its kindof hard to put miles on the engine if I slip a gear and stall which has happened and have to get a puch to start it. Anyways, so should i change those primary injectors to the n/a's if i dont have an aftermarket fuel controller yet?

 

It kicks on when you start the car and use PS. It is not necisary to run. Like I said in PM I removed it from ours. It allso pulles meterd air.

 

So is there a certain way i should advance or retard the timing to make it idle higher?

 

^ no. Advancing the timing will jump up your idle but is not a good solution. If you need to idle higher try the fast idle cam adjustment screw on the TB plates. The BACV as well if you still have it.

 

What if the superglue has got the apex seals stuck when installed? Does the superglue have to be disentegrated or something maybe? Or does it have any effect at all?