poor_red_neck

I've searched, but all I find are links to turbo and fuel upgrades.

I'm on the hunt for a blown S4 TII and plan on making it my next project. Fully stripped interior, caged, aluminum dash, gauges, seats, shifter. That's it. Basicly a "street driven" track car. Weekend cruiser. Hope to get the curb weight down to 2600 lbs wet. Thank god I've changed my mind, came close to picking up a MKIII supra instead . I just miss my FC too damn much.

Anywho, to have about 350ish HP "reliably," what all is basicly needed to the internals of the engine? Tuning and cooling aside, I'm talking bare essentials here. Any preference on the seals? Mazda OEM? Rotary Aviation? Atkins?
What about things such as doweling. Cryo treating? Are these "nescessary" or one of those "it can't hurt anything" type of deals.
The motor will either have a decently sized streetport, or a half bridge. This won't be a daily driver, so I can deal with 50,000 miles. I just want 50,000 GOOD miles. My last FC died from heat, so I will be paying special attention the the cooling system. Getting of track here. If you found a thread through searchign that answers what I'm asking, please inform me so I can futher explore.

DC350

As far as i know, all you'll need for internals is 2mm OEM apex seals, and a street port! As for dowelling there is controversy as to whether or not it is needed for 350whp.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

you dont need to do anything. if you tune correctly, it will support the power.

Jizneremie33

http://www.speedmachineperformance.c...ts.asp?Cat=153

You could do that, but i am pretty sure there are alot of people running the HP you want on basically stock internals... Its all about how you tune it

poor_red_neck

Ok, just for ***** and giggles... how about 400? I'd like to have a car in the mid 12s... with say "DOT legal" tires... weight around 2600-2700 w/o driver.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

um... huh? the internals will handle upwards of that. its all about the tune and cooling, both in oil and coolant. if you can get oil everywhere ( oil mods ) then you should be dandy. evert\ything ineternally are trivial. i would say though, that i would make sure you have a top dollar tune.

Jizneremie33

for the weight just start taking anything uneccesary off your car, also i don't know what kind of times people are running you could go to the dyno/time sheet second and see what kind of power people are making

poor_red_neck

Yeah, I mean... It's not really a goal, would just be nice to get into 12s.

I'll do some research for some oil mods. I'd imagine just making passages larger and what not.

Everything will be stripped from the car. EVERYTHING not needed. Bare metal interior, no dashboard. Manual steering rack, No heat or A/C. Aluminum spare. If I do need heat, I'll get something smaller out of a differnet car or something. This will just me my sunday driver. Got my pimp *** 95 olds cutlass for the daily haul

Nismo Convert86

iTrader: (7)

The stock block is good for over 400 whp, and what more reliable than stock? J-Rat, well I think it's J-rat make over 430 at the wheels on a stock Mazda reman.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

It can be done on a stock motor. J-rat put down 434 with a stock reman and an aftermarket turbo (And alchy injection), so 350-400 with a streetport is cake. I, personally, would do some basic oil mods just to insure reliable operation.
As for seals, the jury is still out. Many people have used atkins seals with very good success. I have personally seen a car where it popped an atkins seal from detonation. There were large chunks missing form the apex seal, but there was NO damage to the housing, rotor, turbo, or anything else. He simply pulled the motor apart, repalced the gaskets and the apex seals on that rotor, and threw it back together. That alone is worth using them to me.
Edit: I see someone beat me to mentioning J-rat.

poor_red_neck

Hmm... That sounds pretty good Sideways. I've hard atkins seals are softer than OEM, but I never saw that has a plus side. If that were the case, it wouldn't be a problem to pop one (if it were to happen). Pull the motor apart one weekend, rebuild during the week, and throw it back in next weekend. I'm just fortunate to have a daily driver this time around, where as my last FC was my only mode of transport. When it popped the coolant seal, I was up ****'s creek.


thanks for the replies guys. I'm sure I'll debate seal choice up until the day I order them, but Atkins seems a bit stronger of a choice. Would love to hear OTHER case stories too. I've got a good bit of homework ahead of me. Will more than likely pick up the car with my tax returns (if I can find one in time). Time to do some more leeching in the 2nd gen section! Been a while since I've posted here. Good to be back "home"

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

You guys forget to mention that J-rat also lost his engine shortly after that dyno pull.

We offer quite a few mods that are aimed at reliablity from studs to coatings...

snowball

you forget J-rats engine blew up due to the boost controler line melting and the engine hiting 25+psi not from daily use.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, I've heard the atkins seals are softer than OEM. I'm not saying that your engine will be ok after everytime you pop a seal, but its not a gauranteed ****-up like with the stock seals. I've heard of other people who popped atkins seals that didn't have internal damage, too, so its not just a one-time occurance.
And yeah, j-rats engine did die of a cracked housing, but it was from an overboost due to a melted line, as stated.

RETed

This is all a waste of time unless you tell us how much you're willing to spend.
You mentioned some really extreme mods that are not really necessary.
Troll?

A stock 13BT with full exhaust and intake + street slicks will do 12's.
You don't need 300..350...400hp to do 12's.
Troll?


-Ted

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

I don't think he's a troll, just not familiar with what is necessary to make power.

Node

iTrader: (1)

BONE STOCK MAZDA IS GOOD FOR IT
GET YOURSELF A KNOWN REPUTABLE ROTARY TUNER THAT IS LOCAL TO YOU AND GO W/ THE STANDALONE EMS THAT HE IS MOST FAMILIAR WITH

I don't talk in caps like this normally, but its important info.


As long as you have more than enough fuel, and good cooling (both intercooler and oil and radiator cooling) taken care of, then you're set.
Just get a well known rotary tuner in your area. Or see if steve kan is coming to your area. Find an EMS that they are familiar with and recommend.

One of the local AZ guys did 430rwhp on stock ports.
The motor will more than take the power at 350hp and can be very reliable.


keep your oil temps in proper operating range
keep your coolant temps in proper operating range
keep your EGT temps in proper operating range
keep your air intake temps in proper operating range
have more than enough fuel from both injector and fuel pump for your goals
find yourself a good rotary tuner, piston tuners don't know **** about rotaries.


Have fun,
Ben Martin

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Thats right, I forgot about that. However I have seen engines survive more than just a spike, but a full gear pull at boost levels higher than that( and much more than just a 5psi increase- more like 10+...). Those engines are still currently running....

poor_red_neck

Yeah Ted.... I'm a troll that's been here for 3 years!

WTF?

Money isn't the topic here. I'm not looking to build a car in record time. However long it takes to get it done, is how long it takes. As I stated, I have a DD, so this is just a fun car. I'm just looking for opinions and ideas to what I will be getting into. I don't plan on hitting the 400 mark, nor do I care what the actual HP number is. I would like to be SOMEWHERE IN THE RANGE of 350ish. I just want a ******* quick car to have fun in on the weekends. And I'm simply asking what I will need to do to make sure it starts up every weekend.

Chill the FUUUCK out.

Troll??? Pfft. Whatever.

tuns0ffun65

i just rebuilt my motor yesterday, using the rotary aviation 2mm standard kit, it a has a medium streetport, by that i meen in the middle of streetport and raceport. im shooting for around the same horsepower as you and hopefully reliable too. my car should be running in about a week so ill let you know how things are going

Node

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, didn't ya know. We're all trolls in Teds eyes
He still loves us though.

Rotary Troll Club!

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

for oil mods you want to use fd stationary gears/w bearings. they are a multi window design. of course you want an oil pellet instead of the oil bypass thermostat. and if its an s4 engine the oil main o-ring can be machined down to prevent blowing the o-ring from high oil pressure. even though i dont think many people have had that problem but if you want to then mill it down 20 thousandths of an inch. and then you can also change the oil jets to increase the oil flow to the rotors. take out the jets in the e-shaft and ditch the check ball and spring and press in a webber #200 jet in its place. even these mods might be overkill but they cheap and easy and its one less thing to worry about.

10thAEWHiteHeat

iTrader: (4)

You can hit 12's with less than 350hp