peachykeenwight

So.. after installing the engine in a garage barely big enough to fit my car in the first place, I can't get her to start.

I hear 6 pulses, but the cranking sound is a bit goofy to me. Also, it doesn't even skip like it wants to start... almost like it's not getting fuel or spark, even though it is getting both.

Engine is a large streetported S5 block with S6 rotors running 3mm Atkins seals. Fuel system is an intank Walbro 255lph, Aeromotive FPR, 750cc primaries and 1600cc secondaries, turbo is a 62-1 with a .96A/R hotside, and notable mention is the alcohol injection system consisting of a 4 gallon cell in the hatch area feeding a Shurflo 150 psi meth pump leading to 2 15GPH nozzles in the intercooler piping just before the throttle body inlet.

Here are pics of install, and I'll have a video of the first start attempts up as soon as I edit it:











Hope everything works out soon. Video will be up shortly.

-Mark

ivegonemad

check timing??

FCS34LIFE

+1

peachykeenwight

Stabbed and re-stabbed CAS numerous times. Also, after the engine build, BDC made sure my main pulley was correct. All checked out okay.

I'll just keep trying, I know it has it in it. I've found that if I get discouraged, the car usually takes longer to start than it does if I stay optimistic. :P

For what it's worth:

ignition is BUR9EQPs all around, Mallory HyFire ignition amp, stock wires, stock coils.

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

try putting some 2-stroke oil in the lower spark plug holes. it may just need a little to help build compression. same thing happened to a friends new rebuild recently

peachykeenwight

Hey, thanks for the suggestion. Never tried that one before, I'll give it a go and we'll see what happens.

Killert2

sounds like it flooded. mine did that after a rebuild

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Assuming you have verified fuel and spark, where did the map in the Haltech come from?

If you are not getting it to start but are getting fire (smoke out the tailpipe), try increasing the amount of fuel when cranking.

If it cranks for a few seconds then floods, decrease the amount of fuel.

Sometimes a push start with another vehicle is the best way to cut all this BS.

micah

Doesn't know about putting 2-stroke oil in, but has all of this work done? Not to be a dick or anything, but are you sure you aren't in over your head?

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

maybe some starting fluid?

rebuilds have a tough time on that first fire up.

peachykeenwight

The map is my previous tune (BDC street tune) before the motor went. Was starting and running like a champ (except for the constant clicking because of my bad starter, hehe) before I threw it back in. I pulled up the map on my laptop to make sure that it hadn't been deleted for whatever reason while the car was down, and sure enough it was still there. That was my first suspicion, but it seems that it shouldn't be the problem.

I did notice that none of the assembly lube and vaseline hasn't burnt yet. I suppose, then, the right path would be to decrease the amount of fuel?

I considered push starting, but the way I have the car in the garage and the fact that my street is fairly crowded sort of put that idea down.

I'm going to goof around with it a little more today and see if I can't figure it out.

"Not to be a dick or anything" in return, but I have never heard about putting 2-stroke straight in to the rotor housings via spark-plug holes as assistance for a start. The only thing that suggestion reminded me of was the "unsticking the apex seals" process, but even that is a little different. Perhaps you are confused and are thinking about blocking off the OMP and premixing? If that is the case, I've been premixing for quite a while.

Do me a favor and, unless you have a suggestion to help me get it started, don't come into my thread and post just to be an *******. I built this car from the ground up, I think I can handle it. ****** like you on the club who just try and act smarter than everyone really make being an enthusiast no fun at all. Grow up.

micah

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...p_breakin.html
Its an extremely common unflooding and first-time start practice...

I thought I was pretty nice. I also didn't resort to name calling. But, I do apologize.. ****** like me can admit when they are in over their head. My apologies for any undue trauma my perceived attitude may have caused you.

Good luck with your build.

--Micah

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Spark plug condition after cranking?

Also, what happened that caused the need for a rebuild? Just curious as whatever caused it to blow (presuming it blew and this wasn't just a freshening) may still be causing trouble.

peachykeenwight

Spark plugs are barely wet even after excessive cranking.

Engine had a broken corner seal (replaced, of course) as well as a slightly chipped apex seal (replaced all 6). It sounds a little goofy while cranking, I have no idea why, but there are six distinct pulses which leads me to believe that the engine is internally sound.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Add fuel during cranking. If you're not flooding it out, then theres' not enough gas If you flood it out, its slightly too much lol

Well even *if* it has a chipped seal it should still fire up. I've ran ones with trashed front rotors, they run like **** but they still start up.

I would add fuel until you can definetively flood the engine. If it doesn't even give you a glimmer of trying to start while adding fuel bit by bit, I'd start looking elsewhere.

Also, what fuel pressure with pump on, engine off?

Snack

on a first start, the motor will be extremely hard to start. hook up a battery charger, check the timing, have a spare set of plugs and be ready to by a new starter. it'll start eventually. it look like your running microtech. check the tune on the ecu

micah

To be fair.. I didn't really give him any tips or advice..

micah

Sounds like your timing is probably fine, sounds like the only things left to check are compression and fuel.

Did you check compression with an actual gauge? Or just with the ear-method? Sometimes the ear-method can be deceiving.

Can you smell fuel? With those big-*** injectors, you should definitely be smelling it by now.

2-stroke is a tride and true method of unflooding a rotary. Hands down.. No bull. ATF is not to be used anywhere except your powersteering rack and your automatic transmission. MMO is snake-oil... 2-stroke is purpose built to do just what we need.

Sorry for the previous bullshit.

peachykeenwight

Hey, good news.. sorta!

So when I checked for spark (yeah, amateur mistake, please forgive me), I only checked the trailing.. guess what? Leading isn't sparking. So, now I have to figure out if it's a wiring issue or if my coils are actually bad.. I hope it's not the latter.

To answer your questions:

classicauto: 40 psi, and I definitely flooded it! mm, it smelled good.

Snack: Got all of that down, double and triple checked most everything (except for the leading coil :x). It has a new starter, it's cranking nicely with a good charge. I'm running a Haltech E6K with the map I previously was running prior to the rebuild, and I have double checked to make sure that the map was there and in-tact.

micah: No hard feelings. I apologize for snapping at you.. you know how this stuff is, it's easy to get on edge and pissy. My car knows just how to make me act like a premenstrual thirteen year old girl.

I tried the 2-stroke method (which of course didn't do much seeing as I'm only getting half spark), but I did notice that the "puffs" were much more audible. I'll have to put a bit more in when I figure out what's up with the leading coils. For the record, I haven't checked compression the right way, only by ear.

I can definitely smell fuel. It has flooded a few times now.


Thanks everyone for your help. Once I figure out what's wrong with my leading coil, I think I'll have enough info. on here to get her going.

Expect a first start video in the next couple days!