Well with 750 miles on the rebuild my motor is smoking. Under boost and durring first warm up. At first I thought it was the turbo charger, and do still believe its a major factor in it, but I yanked it off today. I found that my front exhaust port was black, and my rear was brown/goldish. It was dry and not oily, so I am not sure what could cause this. The turbo is leaking oil badly, the intercooler and intake runners are covered with it on the inside. However the hotside of the turbo is dry as a whistle.
You guys think its my turbo? Or do you think one of my oil control rings got screwed up? The car ran just perfectly fine for 500 miles until I had to boost so I would not get hit.

I need to fix this as fast as possible, I can take pictures if that would help.

*Edit* From 750-5k I have no smoke. However at 3.5k I am having a hesitation that continues for atleast 1k, but completly disappears when I am boosting. I can free rev it to about 5k in neutral and have no smoke.

 

Well I yanked the plugs, 2 weeks ago and 200 miles ago they were brown/lean. Today both the leading and trailing plugs are black and oily. I looked at the exhaust ports again and I dont think theres anything to worrie about.

I will replace the turbo and see what happens.

 

question do you have emmisions??? if so out of luck did you connect a hose from the bottom oil fillter breather to the top??? kinda like blocking it off??? if so your car will smoke like a bitch after a good boost i know moron i bought my car from did it and blew my motor because of it...
TwEaK

 

No emissions. I replaced the turbo and cleaned the spark plugs, well I am guessing they are shot because it feels like I am only running on one rotor, how? I am not sure.

 

if anything charge the battery up real nice take the turbo and exh manifold off get a friend to turn the motor over (dont start it) unless you can just turn it over with the starter and see if anything comes out like oil...
TwEaK

 

Sounds like you've oil fouled your plugs. You've got to find out where the oil is coming from, though. Seeing a rotor port/plugs that are dark and carboned, and the other that;s nice and clean/tan, would worry me...it's hard to have a condition that causes excess oil to one rotor and not the other.

Still, here's the experiments I run before I call an engine bad. 1) open the oil system up...remove the hose (or cap) from the oil filler neck, and leave it open to atmosphere, this will relieve any pressure built up. 2) unbolt all your OMP lines from the OMP, and either wrap a towel around the OMP, or put regular 12mm bolts in the open holes. Run the car for another hour or so to evacuate all remaining oil from the OMP lines. Now, see if you still have smoke. Finally, remove the turbo, cap off or reroute your oil and coolant supplies to the turbo, and crank her up (open manifold)...see if you still have smoke with no turbo present (works best when the engine isn't dead cold, since any rotary smokes a hair on cold startup). In place of the last test, I've been known to block off the oil flow by inserting a standard bolt into the oil feed hole in the block instead of the banjo fitting, and then using vise grips on the turbo's compressor nut to keep it from spinning and tearing itself up with no oil. Let it idle this way for a while doing some revving as well, then go for a very short trip around the block to see if you have any smoke or not when throttle is applied.

IF you still have smoke or oil buildup after all these tests, I'd say you have an internal issue.

 

Well I am not worried about smoke right now, Im more or less concerned about why the heck I am only running on one rotor. I put brand new spark plugs in last night, double checked my plug wires, and even got to the point that I switched the primary injectors with the secondary.

I am almost dead sure it was the turbo fouling the plugs, I mean I could drain oil from the UIM plenimum (spelling?).

And mabey since I have this thread already started, what the heck could cause high oil pressure? Cold start, it pegs the guage, and at warm idle, I hold 30psi, but then it shoots to 70+ and then hits 100+ at 3-4k.

 

Like I said, you could have oil fouled one or 2 of your plugs, making them not fire so well under compression pressures...since molecules are compressed inside the engine, it's harder for spark to travel, so it's possible to have a plug that fires okay in atmosphere (if you check it outside the engine visually) but not so well when running.

I'd change plugs if it were me. I'd also check to see that I'm getting fuel delivery from both primary injectors...pull back your rail with injectors and wiring, tie the injectors to the rail securely, unplug both coils and crank it over (use an assistant, a remote start wire, or just turn the key on and remove the cas and spin it over to simulate cranking). I just put the engine in my FD and was only running on one rotor, despite good compression readings. Apparently one primary injector was only intermittently firing when cold, and not at all when hot. It even passed the above test when cold, not hot.

As for the oil in teh intake, Im sure that is caused by the turbo. BUT, there is not really any way that you can say that one rotor got all the oil and the other got none...they'd both get roughly equal amounts of oil, so they'd both appear to be burning oil when viewed on plugs or exhaust ports...yet you stated that only one rotor appeared this way.

As for high oil pressure, you have a stock regulator in there? IF you run an FD regulator those numbers sound right...115 or so cold, dropping to 30 at idle when warm and 60-100 at higher rpms when warm.

 

Ok well I am running the stock regulator but I know for a fact I got the damn sender soaked in side and out with simple green, I think I just screwed it up. I am going to yank one off a parts car and see what it says then.

I replaced the turbo today and made sure that my oil system was being allowed to breath (I need a catch can...) and theres no smoke. Theres a hint of it, but I am guess that can be left to the fact the intercooler/piping/intake was coated in it.

The new plugs are in and she idle's like a dream, I can definity tell the seals are setting, and as soon as the car warms up she holds a rock solid 1k idle. However I really really really need to drop in my 85 GSL SE 680 injectors as soon as they get here. I can tell I am running lean and getting some hesitation issues in certain gears/low low boost.

 

Yep, sounds like you fouled a plug and replacing them made it run a lot better.

FWIW, hesitation can be a result of running lean, or running rich, at any certain point. IF you have a lean hesitation right now, going to larger injectors may smooth it out, or it may cause a rich hesitation, which will feel almost the same to you.

 

Well I have 1200 miles on the engine today, its idling ok, but its still smoking. I am pretty sure this is due to the PCV system no longer existing . The damn blow off valve is vented to the atmospehere, and after a hard run where it will smoke, it will vent smoke. So I know its gotta be comming from the line I have ran from the TID to the oil filler neck. I think I need to run both nipples on the oil filler into a catch can, and run the vac line from the TID into it, stuff it full of something like steel wool to act as a seporator, and see how it runs.

Note to self. DO NOT RUN without a catch can, my engine bay is SOAKED with blow by oil and fuel .

10psi on this port, stock turbo, upgraded fuel system is fricken fast! However the wastegate on my turbo is bad, it hesitates building boost, but as soon as it hits and holds it, its rock solid.