I know I shouldn't skimp, but I don't have the money and it won't be the end of the world if the engine goes again. But of course I don't want that to happen. I've done lots of searches, but I want some feedback on my specific situation. I'm rebuilding an engine for the first time. It shouldn't be a problem doing it, I've done practically everything else to my car.

Anyhow, I blew a coolant seal 6k miles after installing a rebuilt engine. Besides the coolant seals, what do I HAVE to replace? Do I need to get all the other O-rings? Give me some opinions. I will of course, measure everything to make sure its within spec.

 

considering everything is reusable like housings and apex seals.

210 mazda basic rebuild kit
front rear seals (?)
rotor oil rings (?)
Misc (?)
= probly around 600 if you do it yourself. Thats how much it costed me

 

+ rebuild video of your choice 19.99-29.99

 

What is in the basic rebuild kit? And for now, I'm just thinking about internal engine seals, etc. Most of the rebuild kits I've seen also have the gaskets for the intake manifold etc, which will all be replaced of course.

 

You blew a coolant seal after 6k miles? Did you overheat or it just blew? If it just gave away, then you should measure the housings if it is within spec.
The best places for a rebuild kit is Atkins. A basic rebuild kit is a little over $100. But if you just had it rebuilt, you don't need all the other gaskets but just the O-rings. You should check the coolant passages for any corrosion and cracks/holes. It's very hard to see but if you look closely after cleaning everything, you should be able to see them if there are any.
Always use distilled water with coolant.

 

Here:

http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/cu...me.php?cat=437

 

I did something stupid. I knocked the vac line off the waste gate actuator and installed a FCD in the same day. Long story...

 

Also try Ebay under seller Atkinsrotary.
They sell some things way under what others sell for.

 

I rebuilt my last engine for about 320 bux, the N/A gasket set it a lot cheaper than the turbo set but it doesn't come with turbo to engine gasket, but other than that it is identicle.

oh yeah this engine has around 25,000 miles on it and she still runs 13.5s consistently, will be faster once I get a new differntial, mines shot..

 

Yea, if you can reuse the turbo -manifold gasket, you can use the N/A set. No difference. And cheaper.

 

So I should definately replace the corner seals, springs, etc. They should only be 6k miles old and if it will save me 300 bucks then....

 

Maybe I ms-read your post but you said it was rebuilt 6k ago? If so, you don't need anything but the O-rings.
If I did misread the post and you have high miles on it, get all the seals and gasket set. You won't really know the condition of it until you break it down. There might be worn out bearings, worn apex seal etc. The largest cost increase is the rotor metal O-rings and the apex seals. If you want the motor to last, you need to measure the parts including the housings. If it's even a little warped, something you can't see just by looking at it, the O-rings will squeeze itself out and cause another coolant leak which means another cost and car out of comission again. Get a micrometer and start measuring.

 

I plan to, thanks for the advice. I guess it will have to be a wait and see type of thing. Hopefully I'll get away with just the 0-rings

 

Take it slow and read the FSM that you can download in www.fc3s.org or www.iluvmyrx7.com

There are all the informations you need for tear down and install including torque specs. and measurements. If anyone enjoy tinkering with their car, that is something everyone should have.
Good luck.