I might have missed reading it in your thread, but did you use OEM apex seals? and are the small apex end pieces properly installed against the long apex seal springs? (this is less likely if you had good compression right after the rebuild).

If you have low compression on all 3 faces of one rotor after overheating, I would also look at the possibility of warped apex seals (at least 2 of the 3). If you were to call a repair shop that had a borescope (some do) that would be helpful. It could be inserted into the trailing spark plug hole to look for damage on the rotor housing's sliding surface.

Are you pre-mixing or using an OMP?

 

I was using the OMP only until I tried the MMO trick the other day. I also decided to premix at the same time for fear that the OMP may not be delivering any oil and that may have been contributing to a low compression cause.

As for the seals, I used Atkins 2 piece seals, with solid corner seals and 93 corner seal springs.

 

Ok, here's something new. My injectors are still firing by themselves. A couple of months ago, I was setting my TPS, and when I pulled on the harness, I heard a click. I tugged on it a few more times, and heard the clicking every time I pulled. Because I have no other solenoids on the car, there's nothing else that would be clicking, except for the fuel injectors.

So, I decided to pull the harness and rebuild it to find the short that was making the injectors fire. I ran new wires for the injectors, and removed all of the pins for the emissions stuff I no longer have. I attributed the hard start issue to the fact that my injctors were firing when they weren't supposed to be. Unfortunately, after rebuilding the harness, I still have the hard start, and now low compression.

Today I went out to screw around with it, and I saw my TPS was way off. While setting it, I pulled on it's clip, and I heard THE SAME DAMN CLICK!! I don't even understand how it's possible, seeing as how I isolated the injector wires from the rest of the harness and ran them independently, even soldering them on to the resistor pack.

What's weird, is while I was trying to Ohm out my TPS, when I grounded the multi meter, the injectors clicked. I disconnected the tps, and put the probe on the green red wire (Pin 2g at the ecu) when I ground the multi meter, the injectors fire. I've pulled the lower fuel rail, and verified this visually. Every time I ground the meter, they both fire. So, rotor wash could still be the cause of this.

What the hell would make them fire? could my ECU be bad? It's an Rtek 1.7

 

if you dont wanna pull the whole motor you could try removing the exhaust manifold and examining the apex seals through there...just an idea

 

True, but now even if I swapped the motor, I'd need to solve this problem. Why would my injectors be firing when I probe the TPS, or pull on it's wire?

 

I'd double-check your grounding points, especially at your ecu. If you're pulling on a wire, especially near a connector, and you get some kind of response, you have an intermittent open in that circuit. It can even be a circuit adjacent to the one that you suspect, i.e. flexing a harness to one particular sensor also flexes wires to a different sensor on the same harness. Sometimes it's helpful to unwrap any tape on the harness and expose all the wires, then flex one wire at a time until you find the one or two that affects that circuit. It can be a bad crimp at a spade connector or pin, broken wires inside insulation (sight unseen) or you might just need to squeeze a blade so it fits tighter on the connector. Make sense?

I had a similar thing happen to me at the map sensor connector on my N/A. Every time I accelerated hard (movement of the engine and harness) or hit a pothole, my check engine light would flicker and I'd get brief hesitation. I hooked my lab scope's probe on the signal wire to the map and flexed the wires near the connector and you'd see a spike on the scope and the engine would run like ****. I put new spades on all the wires of that connector and no more problems.

 

you may not have the cash for it but if i were you and kept having wire harness problems i would just buy a microtech and use there harness then you have no worries

 

I just thought of something else. Are you using one of those cheap-o analog multimeters or a good digital one?...the reason I ask is that most cars since the 80's use rather sensitive driver circuits in their ECUs that should be checked using a multimeter with at least 10 megohm impedance. In other words, your multimeter may actually be loading the circuit enough to trigger the injectors. If you are using a multimeter to check resistance, it should never be done on a live circuit. Are you confused yet?

 

thats a good point i didnt even think about that...

 

I thin kin this case, I was using using the ohm meter to check for rsistance, and the circuit was live (the ignition was on) But, I only did that to help track down the source of the clicking that I heard when just tugging on the tps wire. What I'm going to try this evening, is jumping out the TPS. I cut the clip off of a spare harness I have. I ran 3 new wires, 1 for ground, 1 for 5v reference, and the other for the output signal from the tps. Tonight, I'll connect the ground and reference, and depin the original wiring harness's pin at 2g, and connect my jumper instead.

Oh yeah, one more bit of info. I started looking at the tps and trying to set it, because my diagnostic lights were flashing 1 long, 1 short (TPS)

 

Make sure that you set the tps with the engine fully warm with the throttle fully closed (against the stop screw).

 

I wasn't able to install my jumper for the tps, I'll do that tonight, and see if that stops the injectors from wanting to fire by themselves