Rebuild or J-spec?
Rebuild or J-spec?
looking for some input. I have never rebuilt a rotary although i am mechanically inclined and i am wondering how difficult the rebuild job is. i'm thinkin 2mm hurley seals and diy port and polish using templates from somewhere. any suggestions? or a good place to find a seal kit to rebuild with for a good price? or is it just easier to put a jspec in and be done with it? i am looking for higher power than i believe is possible with factory motor (350-450) with retaining a reasonable drivablity factor. let me here all ideas. i just need to stomp by buddy's slowmaro, so far his best is 13.2 @ 127, street tires and without his recently added n2o and larger cam.
There are rebuild videos available. And from reading on this forum, Hurley seals are not what you want in your engine. Rotary aviation has developed a supposive "indestructable" apex seal so you may want to look into that. I would say go rebuild instead of jspec, since you really don't know the history of the motor when going j-spec.
The problem you get with jspecs is you don't know the condition of the engine. The one I had had a leaking coolant seal a few months after it was put in, and if you read about other people's experiances, this isn't uncommon. Rebuilding it would take some time, but its worth it. I've done it once, and I'm about to do it again. It isn't hard, just lengthy. And even if you rebuild it to completely stock specs, it should be able to support the 350-450hp you're looking for. Mazdatrix carries porting templates, though you may want to send it out to get that done.
Also, are you looking to rebuild it so it will support more power, or because its blown?
Also, are you looking to rebuild it so it will support more power, or because its blown?
the reason for my rebuild is i think my engine called it quits. i was driving down the highway (at rediculous speeds) and was experiencing some overboost (~14 psi wot 120mph) and all of a sudden lost acceleration. first thought was injector locked open. rough idle and then died. wouldnt restart. removed injectors and none stuck open fuel pressure tested good and now it wont start and motor seems to rotate real fast and easy, leading my to think no compression. i think my wastegate diaphram was the culpurt for the high boost and i have another and was going to change later that afternoon. oh well.
yeah he has MAJOR traction issues. we are talking smoke and patchs over 100mph in 4th! but thats kinda what i am relying on!!! lol! anyway i went with him for his dyno tune and he hits 350ft-lbs from 2800 and it stays there flat til 7500. his hp is only 325 and real peaky though. not enough plenum volume. wish me luck. i started pulling the motor tonite to tear down and evaluate but im sure blown side or apex seal.
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From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
I wouldnt use the hurleys. Either use stockers, the new atkins heat treated, or the rotaryaviation seals. ALl 3 seem to be able to hold some abuse.
You are aware that, done properly, you will have WELL over 10 grand in your 325+hp setup, correct? Are you sure you want to go down this road just to complete with your camaro buddy? IN many cases (not all, not even most, but many) even a well built rotary won't hold up as well as a modified v8.
I say, if you build your car, do it for you, not someone else.
You are aware that, done properly, you will have WELL over 10 grand in your 325+hp setup, correct? Are you sure you want to go down this road just to complete with your camaro buddy? IN many cases (not all, not even most, but many) even a well built rotary won't hold up as well as a modified v8.
I say, if you build your car, do it for you, not someone else.
JSpec, and it's offline
My buddy's 88 TII has been down since he can't qualify CA USA emissions following a JSpec swap. The swap was fine, retrofitting the old engine's equipment to the JSpec core. Unlike the 'SoCal' seller's claims, one rotor has lame compression, and he should have suspected the engine just looking at the abused flywheel (smeared and overheated). No warranty of course, and the fine print or between-the-lines print is "offroad use only", so that's life.
I recently got a street-ported 13BT from Atkins Rotary, at just over $3k including core fee. I've yet sent my core. Atkins now uses quality 3mm apex on all turbo engines.
For abuse in drifting and off-road rally, or in acquiring a core for rebuild, use a JSpec. Otherwise go for a quality machine.
I recently got a street-ported 13BT from Atkins Rotary, at just over $3k including core fee. I've yet sent my core. Atkins now uses quality 3mm apex on all turbo engines.
For abuse in drifting and off-road rally, or in acquiring a core for rebuild, use a JSpec. Otherwise go for a quality machine.
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NickNac113
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