just like title says. my front rotor lost compression 0 on all faces... makes no sence was running fine 10 mins before i parked it started it and it barley made it home . so i plan in rebuiling overwinter . my goal is daily driven close to 250-300whp for summer of next year. keep my airpump and all that cause my car ran fine with all that only 92k on the body . my car is a 87 t2 .

my questions are :
what apex seals to use? (my freind has a 500hp fd he said to use steel one idk who makes em )
street port safe to be daily driven?
what fuel upgrades do i need for this
and can a rtek computer be good for it (dont wanna mess with standalone)
will a s5 turbo be good for this or should i look into a bigger single turbo . dont want a bnr
already have a act street disk i didnt even put 1000 miles on
and i will be using a 3inch single exit all the way back ..
i will be rebuilding it myself most the work besides the porting .
and last question were should i buy the rebuild kit? i was looking at the atkins kit..

dont bash on me to hard im gonna try todo this the right way

 

Street ports are great for daily drivers from what I've read. I've never driven a ported rotary engine, but from my experience with boingers, a street port is about as daily drivable as a mildly cammed engine, which I do have experience driving, so not bad. If it's 300whp you're looking for, you're not getting that out of a stock s5 turbo. Although you can get that from a BNR turbo. If you go with a larger single turbo you're going to need to get a GOOD T4 manifold (not some chinese ebay crap), wastegate, new exhaust (Rx7 downpipe won't match up), and a good intercooler kit.

There's a thread on fuel pumps, and there's a lot of speculation on which one supports what HP, but ultimately it's up to you to decide which one you want and how much you're willing to spend. What's for sure is that you'll need to re-wire the fuel pump if you're sticking with an in-tank unit. Rtek 2.x ECU is programmable, and it's good, but it has its limits. If I were you, I'd go with a standalone, but once again, it's your car and your decision.

The atkins rebuild kit is good, I used it before with great success. You could go crazy with it and get some super high dollar ceramic/titanium/cobalt apex seals, you just have to do your research and make your own decisions.

 

thanks man . i wanna get a rebuild kit with ceramic or steel seals . im confused about the kits an i just buy like lets say an atkins kit and use steel or ceramic seals from other company? also i dont mind spening the right $$ on manifold and turbo just dont know which ones togo with . and im looking at 300whp on highboost looking more towards 250 for everyday driving . i want to keep top mount but if front mount i need then i will get a front mount. injecter size and stuff is what im worried about.

 

I regret going front mount... At least the giant *** FMIC I went with. The restricted air flow to the oil cooler bothers the hell out of me. Be sure to leave air for the oil cooler if you go with a FMIC set-up.

My set-up:

Engine rebuilt with atkins 3mm apex seals, mild street port, Racing Beat REV TII exhaust, BNR stage 4 turbo, 720cc primary fuel injectors, 1,680cc secondary fuel injectors, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, custom FMIC set-up, HKS SSQVIII BOV, Koyo radiator, cheap cone filter, cheap FPR, A'PEXi Power FC for the FD w/ Banzai adapter, complete TII drivetrain, ACT HD clutch plate, ACT SS clutch disc, ACT Prolite flywheel, and other ****... There may be things I am forgetting, but this is pretty much what you need to know.

My car has been tuned by Steve Kan on two spark plugs (due to trailing coil malfunction): 322 RWHP @ a conservative 12 PSI. My car is daily driven. I could go with quite a bit more boost with my set-up, and make closer to ~400 RWHP.

This all depends on how much money you're looking to spend. You could probably go with the RTek if you want... You'd be better off going with something more up to date, and with much better support. I've been reading about the Haltech Sprint RE lately. For the power you are wanting, you may want to go stand-alone with like 720cc/1,000cc injectors at least. Look into the BNR turbos... You'll be able to retain the stock exhaust manifold. This may or may not save you money. I really don't know the amount you are or are not looking to spend. Hopefully some of this helps you. I can only offer you my opinion and bit of experience.

BNR web site

 

I'd highly recommend a hybrid if 300hp is all you're looking for, but a GT35 could get you there easily. 550cc primaries and 1000cc secondaries will support you well too. I'd do that for driveability, since in town you won't be going above the 3800 rpm point very often. Also, the stock injectors at lower rpms will give better economy and response (it's all about the "resolution" at lower rpm), and you'll have the 1000cc for higher boost and rpm when you need it. This is why I'd also recommend a standalone, since you can change the "staging point" to kick on the secondary injectors if necessary. A walbro 255lph fuel pump rewired will keep your engine from drying out. I'd also get a nice aluminum radiator if you're upping the power. And although I'm sure the TMIC can handle 300whp, I'd feel safer with a front mount because of heat soak concerns.

 

True... but I had mild overheating issues only with the stock radiator. After getting the godspeed aluminum unit.... it didn't fit So I v-mounted it No idea if the FMIC would have still made it run hot, but I guess I'll never know now.

 

Oh, I highly recommend vertical and horizontal mount intercooler set-ups! I wish I would have done that when I first built my car. I'm just curious as to how much he's looking to spend.

 

300 hp is no problem.. you cold even get it with the top mount but your air temps might get a little high.

The easiest route - Rtek 2.x to control fuel and timing, i would go 720 primaries and 720 secondaries should be enough, the walbro 255 is a good fuel pump, a bnr stage 1 or 2 will do the trick and the best bang for your buck, for 300 hp you can keep the top mount but will have higher air temps you can solve this a little by coating the bottom of the top mount to prevent heat soak but a small front mount would be sufficient, BOV dont get a cheap one, I use the rotary aviation rebuild kits and there is no need at 300whp to need ceramic apex seals thats overkill the mazda oem seals hol up to 400whp no problem, a good tune is the difference your overall power is dependant on your tune

the more expensive route with more possible power later on - Standalone ECU I recommend Megasquirt its DIY but its cheap and does a great job with a great support community, 720 primaries and 1000 secondaries, parallel fuel system, walbro 255, BNR Turbo, V-mount for best efficiency, BOV, rotary aviation rebuild kit (superseals if wanted), I would remove all emissions if possible simplifies the engine bay completely and makes troubleshooting much easier.

 

I built my Megasquirt. Unless you're savvy with circuitry, I recommend buying the pre-built kit. You still have to modify it, but it's so much easier than building the whole thing yourself. Then again, building it yourself is much cheaper, and you'll learn a talent that becomes very useful.

 

i know my way around cars good enough this is the first rotary i wanna do right . im not in a budget but i dont wanna go crazy niether . as of right now i wanna sell my car as a shell or build it idk wat todo

 

Be sure you have a good $5,000 for your project... Depending on how far you're wanting to go with this. I built my car paycheck to paycheck, without a whole lot of knowledge of the rotary, FC's, and cars in general. Knowledge will get you far. Not only knowledge of the car and engine, but also of the aftermarket parts you will or will not be using for your specific application. I suppose you've built a few other cars before, so you probably know how it all can be. This car is very unique...

I am not trying to talk you out of this idea. Just be sure you have the funds, tools, and most importantly... the knowledge. NEVER cut corners. (I cannot stress this enough.)

 

ceramics? well they are the best for wear hands down but they will trash the motor if it ever detonates aggressively. ceramic seals also start at $600 for used but good from pettit and then jump to about $1000 a set new at the low end.

 

Ive got a solid 250hp that I beat the holy hell out of. Does not overheat even on 98/100 deg days.

If I was to do it all over Id do it in this order.

Wide rims/tires
Would still go with my Tein Flex,
Suspension Bushings
Go through breaks, ss lines, rebuild calipers.
At this point you already have an amazing car.

Before anything else Id buy an ecu, I liked haltech, pretty much plug and play, with all the help from the comunity I had it installed on my own and learned to tune on a pretty much stock setup.
You will need to also buy a wideband if your ecu does not support it.

Build an "in spec" or "better than spec" engine There is a forum that is an engine building encylopedia. pm me if you want the url. I did huge secondaries and moderate primarys.
Better than walbro pump, Injectors, new filter, s4 FPR, I did 1680 drop ins.
Tigged up a proper stealth FMIC, made sure Oil cooler had lots of airflow.
I liked premixing and am using stock wires/coils with 9's all arround.
Lightweight flywheel and a solid pressureplate and clutch.
Exhast is up to you, free flow, yada yada
Solid stock s5 turbo

There ya go, reliable 250hp

 

thats the plan ^^^ ill probally go with s5 turbo as long as motor last me a year or close to that ill be happy i dont want to put a lightweight flywheel . i herd of using a supra fuel pump also . ill prob go with 720 secondary injecters and the rtek 2.1 or what ever . i do not want to premix and keep my rats nest and all that my airpump all that stuff still works. whole coolant system ima do front radiator to all the hoses . i want to keep it more reliable then trying to force 300whp to it ill be happy 250whp daily and 270 on highboost or something . me and my freind that builds motors are doing it together he gonna assemble the internals im gonan do everything else

 

Here are the seals to use;

http://turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=261

I've built 5 or so FCs around that power level in the past 12 months using these. Work great, and a good price..

 

any 1 else on the forum use these?