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rebuild is finished but im not getting any power!!! please help

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Old 05-09-07, 01:38 PM
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okay, i bridged the two wires together and the starter motor started(i heard a whinning), but it diddnt start cranking the engine it self. what does that mean? i also volt tested the battery and it read 12v. so what does this mean?

(before when i blew the main fuse, i accually diddnt have the ecu hooked up so it's simply impossible for it to have been fried)

also, when i have my key turned to start and on i can still flip up my head lights

Last edited by skatingsamurai; 05-09-07 at 01:52 PM.
Old 05-09-07, 03:43 PM
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Battery!

12 v ain't enough.

I think you need to charge/replace that battery.

Also, replace that main fuse!!!! Or at least make us all feel better by fibbing and say you replaced it.

THe starter I don't think will try to start the car because the gear will not "fling" out and engage teh flywheel. So I think that is normal.
Old 05-09-07, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by wvumtnbkr
12 v ain't enough.

I think you need to charge/replace that battery.

Also, replace that main fuse!!!! Or at least make us all feel better by fibbing and say you replaced it.

THe starter I don't think will try to start the car because the gear will not "fling" out and engage teh flywheel. So I think that is normal.
12v is fine for a battery. It's supposed to be 12.4v, but that's "negotiable". Mine sits at around 11.8v (car off) and does just fine.
Old 05-09-07, 04:23 PM
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well i did replace the main fuse...eccept it diddnt quite fit so i had to jerry rig it. on the fuse tips, the sides of the metal accually fold off the the side a wee bit. i had to pound them flat to get them into the slots. but if that is a problem them then i AM going to have to bridge the main fuse becuase no places around my place have that kind of fuse. : /.

so lets look at this logicaly. battery is good. fuse is presumed good. the starter is good. so there is a problem either somewhere inbetween or its not being given a signal??????
Old 05-09-07, 04:38 PM
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Jerry rigging the main fuse = you got the wrong fuse, but hey....whatever floats your boat man.


The starter is engaging (making whirring sound) but the motor doesn't crank? I assume your starter was good before this? It sounds like your ballast (sp) may have crapped out on your starter if the starter turns, but it doesn't turn the motor.....either that, or you have a missing tooth or 2 on your flywheel.
Old 05-09-07, 07:27 PM
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*****okay, i bridged the two wires together and the starter motor started(i heard a whinning), but it diddnt start cranking the engine it self. what does that mean? i also volt tested the battery and it read 12v. so what does this mean?
************************************************** *************

To me it means the battery isn't charged enough.

If you jumpered the small blade on the starter solenoid to the large wire on the starter solenoid and it spun and whirred, it means the flywheel never got engaged by the starter gear. There wasn't enough juice to throw the starter gear fwd to engage the flywheel.

THe MAIN fuse is NOT a player if you did as I described above. The key does not even have to be in the car to do that.

The other possibility of the starter just whirring and not engaging the flywheel teeth might happen if someone had a turbo engine with a n/a transmission. They're not comaptible, the turbo flywheel with a non turbo starter. I'm not sure what your configuration is. Complete turbo engine and transmission or?????????

I guess a bad starter solenoid could also be a problem but to me, not as likely as a deficient battery. Put someone elses battery in the car and see what happens.
Old 05-09-07, 07:52 PM
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will do. no this is a s4 tII with a s5 turbo. but i should be as clear as possible here. when i said i bridged the wires, i mean i bridged the large cable that goes to the solinoid valve to the wire that goes FROM the solinoid valve TO the starter. im assuming these are the wires your talking about..but yes, ill try giving her a jump.

however..what wire is responsible for the connection between the START pos. on the ignition and the starter itself. i.e. where along the line in the harness is the connection FOR the ignition. does it go straight from the ignition to the starter? or does it go threw the harness connect somewhere THEN go to the starter. (im just curious about this one)

btw. isnt wayne88 usually in on stuff like this? or does he not own an fc any more?
Old 05-10-07, 10:16 AM
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update! ARGH

okay i got my battery fully charged, and still the same result. i turn the key and the lights dim....i also notice that my efan turns on while in the on position, but when i turn the key to start, the e fan dies. but i am still getting the same result as before!

and can someone please explain to me what this consistant beep is?? its a high pitch beep that turns on moments after i turn the key to ON.

so whats missing from this situation?
Old 05-10-07, 10:24 AM
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your wires on the starter are wrong.
if it just clicks you flipped your wires wrong.
the small baby wire.. so to speak, goes on one of the terminals.
and the power wire from the battery goes to the other terminal.
black wire with a yellow stripe grounds off on the tranny when you bolt the start back on.
that is why yours is swirling without you cranking it with the key in.
you mus have the power wire, and the small solenoid wire together, and the
black w/yellow stripe on the other terminal.. giving it direct constant power.
Old 05-10-07, 10:25 AM
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take a pic of how you got your starter wired up.
Old 05-10-07, 10:47 AM
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sure will. i should clarify however. the only time i got any kind of action out of the starter was when i was down there bridging the terminals. otherwise the starter wouldnt ever activate... also, before when i said with the key in the start position, all the idiot lights dim... i made a poor observation. the lights in the cabin accualy illuminate a bit more ! not less.
either way ill take a pic and get it posted.
Old 05-10-07, 11:29 AM
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****okay i got my battery fully charged, and still the same result. i turn the key and the lights dim....i also notice that my efan turns on while in the on position, but when i turn the key to start, the e fan dies. but i am still getting the same result as before! **********

After charging the battery, did you get under the car and bridge the small blade with the large wire once again? It sounds like the answer is no. Charge the batt and do that bridge again.

So you know the starter is wired right. So if you turn the key to Start and nothing happens, then the circuit from the ignition switch to the small blade on the starter solenoid is open. Why? Got me. It goes from the ignition switch to the clutch interlock switch. Press the clutch and it goes from there to a plug in the engine bay. That plug is either connected to the Theft protection relay (starter cut relay) or if the car has no theft protection it will have a BLUE jumper plug on that connector. Then it leaves that BLUE connector and goes to the small blade on the starter solenoid.

That Blue connector is usually located under the trail coil assy. You could pull the Blue connector ff and find the black/white wire on the other half of that connector. Jumper 12v from the batt to that black/white wire and the starter WILL turn over. Car out of gear if you do that. Key does not have to be in the car to do that. Virtually the same as bridging the wires on the starter that you did earlier but you don't get under the car.

Beep might be the water level thermistor located on the top of the radiator. Gnd that wire and the beep will go off.

About the auxillary fan. The stock auxillary fan. Experience tells me when one of the fuses in the engine bay fuse box is pulled out and the key is in the igntion, that fan will come on. Put the fuse back and it'll go off. I forget right now which fuse. So I'm saying you still have a fuse kaput in the engine bay fuse box. I want to say BTN fuse but could be one of the EGI. This WOULD NOT KEEP THE STARTER from turning over. So don't get off on a tangent.
Old 05-10-07, 11:34 AM
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I just looked. With the key to ON the fan will come on if the EGI fuse that is most inboard is pulled out.

Another thing that will cause it to come on is if the water temp switch on the filler neck of off. I the key is to ON and you pull that connector off the fan comes on. Stock fan.
Old 05-10-07, 02:31 PM
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success!

i think i might check the water filler neck, but thats besides the point. OK, so i charged the bat, and tried bridging the small blade connection with the larger wire on the solinoid valve and it DEF started cranking the engine over...it was only for a fraction of a second but im absolutely sure that it was flung into the flywheel


sooo what now? * i really like this system of problem solving, im learning alot here!*

this means that there is a problem with that BY wire connected to the blade connection right? i suppose the next step is to check the area underneith the coil pack, and trace all locations where this wire runs into a connector...i have a feeling im real close here!

Last edited by skatingsamurai; 05-10-07 at 02:41 PM.
Old 05-10-07, 02:48 PM
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what are you doing exactly, i'm confused now.
so your bridging the spade and the solenoid "baby" wire and it starts?
is the black/yellow striped wire grounded off on one of the bolts that keeps the starter bolted onto the transmission?
Old 05-10-07, 02:54 PM
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the power wire that goes down from the engine bonnet bolts onto one of the terminals.
now make sure the ground wire that goes down from the battery, bolts up to a screw thats screws up to the side of the driver-side tower.
then it heads down and bolts up to the starter flange.. FLANGE. not one of the terminals. it helps ground off the transmission and the starter onto the chassis.


to review a little bit.
there are two posts on the solenoid of the starter, and 1 spade.
the spade (obviously) plugs to a thin wire.
the "baby" wire thats on the solenoid bolts onto one of the posts of the solenoid.
and the "power" wire bolts down onto the other opposite post. (1 wire per terminal post)
if that doesnt work, then something else is wrong.
Old 05-10-07, 03:03 PM
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this is the pic of my starter

on the opposite side of that bolt i have the large wire bolted in as well...everything is bolted in as it was when i took it off...unless of course i AM missing something
Attached Thumbnails rebuild is finished but im not getting any power!!! please help-sany1550.jpg   rebuild is finished but im not getting any power!!! please help-sany1552.jpg  

Last edited by skatingsamurai; 05-10-07 at 03:22 PM.
Old 05-10-07, 04:03 PM
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**********this means that there is a problem with that BY wire connected to the blade connection right?********************

Maybe I need to check things out in the FSM. I didn't think that was a black/yellow wire. Hmmmm. But it could be I suppose.

Yeah. Tell you what. The trail coils are held in with only three 10mm nuts. Undo theem and lift the coil assy to the side. No wires should have to be removed (memory).

Look for a bright BLUE connector on the end of a harness. The BLUE connector will have one wire on its end. Each end of that wire mates with a Green/Black wire on one end and a Black/White wire on the other end.

So. Remove that Blue connector. Get a piece of electrical wire and strip both ends. Put one end in the socket where the Black/White wire is. With shift lever in neutral, momentarily touch the other end of the piece of wire to the batt positive terminal. The starter should whip over. That black/white wire leads directly to the small blade on the starter solenoid.

If it does whip over, then you know that part of the circuit is ok.

Just to make sure.....when the BLUE connector is pulled off and set to the side, look into the half of the plug that has the wires. Take note of the sockets in that plug where the Blue jumper wire made contact. One should be Green/Black (could be Black/Green, memory) and the other Black/White. The black/white is the one you put 12v from the batt to. I mention this again because my failing memory says there might be more than one black/white wire in that connector. You want the black/white that the jumper wire in the Blue connector went to.

Say it spins the starter when you put 12v from the batt to it. That means it's likely the clutch interlock switch is kaput. The clutch has to be depressed for that switch to work. Maybe it's bustes????? The Black/Green wire in the BLUE connector leads back to the clutch interlock switch FYI.

Clutch interlock switch is located at the VERY top of the clutch pedal. There is a small clutch switch lower on the pedal. Ain't that one.
Old 05-10-07, 04:08 PM
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push the clutch pedal in. :-p kidding, im hoping thats not it.
Old 05-10-07, 04:20 PM
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The FSM shows the wire on the starter (smallest wire) being black/white. Maybe age discolored it to B/Y???

IF your car has Theft protection, you won't find that BLUE connector I mentioned above. So if that's the case, forget about what I wrote.........

Yep. Clutch in to start. Sometimes it's all in the details.
Old 05-10-07, 04:47 PM
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okay, your car is an s4 right?
my start must be weird. but i could've sworn that the wires and everything face upwards towards the body of the car as oppose to facing downwards towards the floor (or so tahts what it looks like in your pic)

just a thought, maybe its not facing the right way to engage properly.
Old 05-10-07, 05:10 PM
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...............................starter cut relay..............im stupid
Old 05-10-07, 05:33 PM
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okay i got her started but turned it off after 10 min. i figured its really flooded becuase i cant get it started again, so im going to wait like 30 min, refill the coolant and try again! THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT HELPED! WOOHOOO!
Old 05-10-07, 06:15 PM
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now, does anyone know what this buzzer is? or should i start a new thread??

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ucZpjaMlpM
Old 05-10-07, 07:25 PM
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i've never heard that buzzer before. but my is actually making a wierd Beep beep.. Beep beep. sound.
i'm assuming it was my seatbelt since i didnt have it on.


Quick Reply: rebuild is finished but im not getting any power!!! please help



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