im close to my 1500 miles on my rebuild at 1470 im kinda nervous casue its still kinda weak. i can't say i havnt had any improvment cause the motor has got better, starts right up when cold. When hot it has its problems but its nothing bad just have to flip the kill. After i drive it say for a hour or so an shut it off its kinda a pain to get started kinda have to let it sit for a few minutes. I dont have a mazda compression tester so i just do it by ear an a piston tester.

It still sound weak but not as weak as it was before i rebuilt. Ive read all over that sometimes its better at 1500 2000 3000 an sometimes it take 5000 for a full breakin. ive talked to a few peoplw who have said the most improvement is at 1500. My idle is better still kinda has a mind of its own at times like when its cold. but when warm its about about 900-1100 the motor is a medium to large streetport. do you think i will still have some improvements after i hit my 1500. let me know.

 

OK. And the compression number is?

If the car starts up, runs well, and makes good power, then compression is fine.

 

new or used apex seals???

 

new two peice atkins seals with new springs new side seals new spings new conerseals new springs pretty much everything but new rotors gears housings newer irons an bearings.

like i said in the post i dont have a mazda compression tester so its like a taking a shot in the dark on trying to give a compression ratio.

 

But what does the regular compression tester read?

 

like i said dont have a mazda compression tester so its like trying to guess with the needle bouncing up an down. its still hard to get started when its warmed up so i dont know ill see what happens in the next 500 miles an let you know

 

I don't get how using a piston compression tester is such a problem... it has a gauge with numbers, does it not? Hint: NO ONE has a Mazda compression tester.

 

lol i know on that one i know a guy who has one in town but hes not on my best friends list lol... its just a pain cause when i use it when i take the pin out it dont read an ifi leave it in it just builds up an yeah hahaha...but ill try it agian an see what i can come up with...

 

yeah i knew that when i rebuilt it. so im not really expecting like omg compression. but do you think it will be good enough that im not going to have to use my kill switch.

 

what you've described is not necessarily low compression, and you yourself have said that you haven't tested it. there is a well known bug in the Turbo II ecu that makes flooding common even when the motor does not have low compression.

 

^^True. And no, you shouldn't have to use the kill switch all the time after a few more hundred/thousand miles. If you do, I'd suspect something then. Leaky injectors, whatnot.

 

oh fo sho lol... i hope it all smooths out soon im ordering a new turbo to manifold gasket right now so i cant drive it for a few more days... but injectors maybe my primaries cause my secondaries ar brand new 720s

 

yeah i know that my na use to flood too if i didnt get it started right away... i cant check compression right now cause i have my turbo off ill shoot oil errrrrvvvvyyyy were lol... but ill do it when i get my new gasket