Im reaching the 3000k mark for my breakin.
I want to take it to the dyno to see how its running. I'm still worried that when I get in there, ifits running lean uptop, it will blow when they revv it too high...
Should I be worried?

I was thinking of buying a "Faze" A/F meter... I know everyone says that unless you get a wideband meter they suck. I just want one to tell me if I'm running in the danger zone or not. Should I even look into buying this shitty brand named one?

 

Whats your setup?

 

By the time a narrowband reacts it will already be too late. If you're going to a dyno then they should have a professional wideband there. If not, then go someplace that does.

 

My rotary brotha' be telling the truth. Make sure you get a dyno facility with a wide band O2.

Tell the operator what you have done to the car and your concerns. He should be able to hook you up on probe mode and let you put load on the motor as you slowly bring up the RPM's wile watching the AFR#'s. If everything seems to be ok then go ahead and do your fist pass and look at the readout and dial in your car from there.

What are you using to control/modify fuel delivery. Better yet what modifications have you done to the car?

- Dana

 

I was kinda scared when i put my car on the dyno as well! I hit 13:1 a/f ration up near the top of 4th gear. I was so scared! haha.. She's all better now though, just a few mods fixed that.

 

Speaking of dyno.

You guys think I'll lean out anywhere?
Cleaned and tested 550's
Walbro
S4 engine
S5 turbo
RB 2.5 DP
2.5 PS(cat replacement)
and 2.5 tapered to 3inch Corksport single

I'm hoping the Walbro will help it out.
Once I get my breakin miles on I will install a SAFC and take it to a dyno to verify the AFRS.


Anyways. Like said above. Let the Dyno guys know your concerned about up top so they shoudl go easy the first few runs to get an idea of where your at.

Or you can just get an SAFC and go pig rich up top and then tune down when it's on there.

Oh yeah.
I am leaving a MBC off for now while I break it in to keep boost down but plan to put one on since I don't have the stock boost controlling systems.

 

Are we talking about a turbo motor?
If so, wait till you're past 10k miles.
In my experience, you don't get top compression until after 10k miles.
Yeah, I know it's a long time, but what's the rush?

If it's an NA, ignore the above and flog the bitch...


-Ted

 

10k miles? I have 800 miles on my large streetport and I read that it was ok to open her up after 500 miles. What do you think? my mods are rewired walbro 255, banzai TID, racingbeat turboback exhaust and hks pfc fcon. Should I slow down?

 

oh, and a ported wastegate

 

10k!? That's 6 months of driving before you even get to tune!!!!!!! I don't think I'll be doing that.

I'll wait for 2k miles before I even start searching for a place. Then due to my procrastinating it will be another 500-1k miles before it's done.

 

My recommendation for break-in (yeah, I need to do a FAQ for it...).

First 1000 miles, 4kRPM rev limit / no boost.
Next 500 miles, 6kRPM rev limit / up to 5psi of boost.
Next 500 miles, gradual up to redline / gradual up to max boost.
After 2000 miles, you're cleared to do whatever you want.

With one exception...new bearings would double the mileage for the above recommendations.

I just mentioned that compression still climbs and stabilizes at around 10k miles; it might be sooner, but I only noticed it at 10k miles on my engines.  All the flooding seemed to disappear at 10k miles.  The engine should be like 95% broken in by 2k miles ad described above, but you don't get the last 5% until much later.


-Ted

 

I can't wait until I can actually start my car and drive it without worrying f it not starting back up lol. Stupid flooding.

It only has 300 feet under it's belt and 4 hours of idle time.

 

This makes an interesting point cause I think Mazda feels the same way. Doesn’t the S5 (not sure if the S4 has this) have a extra mileage counter that once it hits a certain point tell the ECU for different settings?

- Dana "I got new bearings, ready for the long haul break in "

 

I believe it was only S4s (could be wrong, cant remember for sure at the moment) and it was 20k miles.

 

Well when I did my TII dash swap on my GTUs the TII spedo had an extra counter. When I looked it up in the FSM it showed basicly relaying a switch in the ECU. Was not aware it was 20k miles though.

- Dana

 

The 20k miles switch.

Do a search on it.

I can't remember exactly what it does but I think it did something like opened the ACV a certain way or something.

 

So far the only things done to the car are as follows
2.5 RB downpipe.
HKS Pod filter
UR underdrive pully (I know what a waste)
I've just been told that I shouldn't even come close to boosting too high yet because I will be running too lean up top.
I dont even shift past 4k because I'm too worried about poping the new engine.
Thinking thats what killed the old motor.
I didnt know enough not to push it that high cause of the a/f ratio.

 

I've heard I should port the wastegate but I really dont know how much work that will be.
As of now my car doesnt flood, its close to the 95% breakin so I don't have to worry about it that much (i also installed a fuel cut switch just incase.
and I just finished redoing the grounds.

 

bump

 

Go buy a Walbro for 95 on ebay. You'll never worry about leaning out again until you do more mods.

old pump 155lph.
Walbro 255lph

I'm thinking I will be blowing some big flames once I get it broekn in. I mean a walbro and straight through exhaust == fire ***** hehehe

 

do I go or a inline pump or intank pump?

 

87RX7TII you can go with the Walbro, or a FD F.Pump. At the same time make sure you rewire the pump while installing your new pump, so you can be assured your getting the proper voltage. Also have your injectors serviced to make sure there squirting properly.

 

When I had the injectors cleaned they guy was like
"woah ****, i've never seen injectors that small pump out that much fuel" So I think that maybe they are pumping too much out.

My front plugs are always flooded and clean while the back are tan and toasty so I figure that they are leaking or putting too much fuel out...
The car bogs down low so its definately getting to much fuel on the low rpms.

I just need to figue out where to start

 

will i need new gaskets when I take off the top intake manifold?

 

I strongly recommend you replace the UIM gasket, and take care of those injectors if indeed they are leaking thats a serious if not life threatning problem. When you get the injectors cleaned they will replace all o-rings.
What kind of injectors are you running, what setup ?