Timken part number 510010 cost is in the $40-$50 mark and you will need a press.



you will first need to pull the hub off the car. I pulled the entire a-arm off as just the hub is a pain. to pull the a-arm off you will need to drop the sub frame and remove the alignment bolt and the bolt going thrue the bone shaped link, as well as the lower strut bolt and a nut on the bottom of the a-arm connected to a link. you will also need to undo the axal. I don't remember what size the nut is but you will need an impact to take it off.

once you have it off you'll need to press the wheel hub its self out of the hub assembly.


then you will need to knock the race off the hub.


now is the fun part you need to remove the biggest C-clip you will ever see.


you will need to bust it loose as its had 18 years to rust in place. I used an air hammer but im sure there are other ways of doing this. after that use a snap ring tool to remove the clip. WARNING. i shot one of mine a good 6-8 feet before it hit something, this could hurt if some one got hit.


now its back to the press. pop out the main body of the bearing and clean the inside of the toe hub.


now press in the new one.


put the retaining clip back in. same warning as above.


press the wheel hub back in, then check to see if the rear race came out if it did press it back in place and reinstall in car.

 

5 stars! this should be archived

 

NICE...excellent pics...makes her look simple.

 

Could a moderator archive this. It looks like a good writeup. BTW I need to do this one of these days.

 

Your braver than me. I had them professionally pressed in because I didn't think my home press had enough "ton-age" to push those in. Plus I didn't feel like making up more jigs to press evenly.

 

i havent tried it on my 7 yet, but i got new wheel bearings in my civic by putting the bearing in the freezer, the hub in the oven at 300, then i popped them together with a mallet. its just another option for those that dont have access to a hydraulic press.

 

not to rain in on your party but in which way is dropping the entire subframe and removing the A-arms and what not easier than just remoivng the hub itself??

 

easy i have 18 year old dtss that the sleave likes to rust to the bolt. i don't have the eliminator bushings or a replacement dtss bushing. so in the long run its easy.

this is also a good time to put in the DTSS removal bushing's and/or poly or delrin swing arm bushings, camber links. if only I had the $$$.

 

thread edited for multiple posts and title corrected and thread copied to archive

 

what are thesyptoms of a bad wheel bearing? i can jack the car up an the wheel wiggles, bad bearing?
thanx

 

you have to take all that **** off just to change the wheel bearing? im in for a long haul then..my Rear passenger wheel bearing is Humming at me

 

humming and a lot of play are signs of a bad bearing. Mazda spec on play is .1mm yes that is point one millimeter.

 

man i just changed mine and i just pulled the hub itself apart. It was really simple. I was shocked to see your entire a-arm on the press! That's pretty cool man. Did you get direction to do it that way. I didn't have any and i wonder if it's a little easier your way.

 

no easier but i did not want to risk the DTSS bushings. I also had polly bushing for the A-arm's and did them at the same time. i also removed 4-lug hubs and installed 5lug and vert rims.
now all i need is new sway bar end links and i should be set.