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Rear trailing arm removal

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Old 02-17-03, 03:38 AM
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Rear trailing arm removal

I have searched the forums and have only found minimal input on this subject. I have a '91 RX7 and my son just put it into a center barrier on the expressway (not his fault). The rear trailing arm got broken and is being replaced. I was removing the arm and found that the adjustment bolt on the arm was too long to be removed without dropping the subframe. I see no reason why this bolt cannot be installed from the inside out (reversed from original) so that the subframe does not have to be removed. I went ahead and cut the bolt (I figured a new bolt won't kill me on price) and removed the trailing arm. Anybody here try this?
Since I am removing the replacement part from another car that I have, I REALLY don't want to drop both subframes if I don't have to.
Old 02-17-03, 04:59 AM
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I've never done it, but it has been discussed on here before. The only problem I can see, is if that bolt is a special bolt (flat spot machined in), which enables you to adjust the toe by turning it, you'll have the same problem when you go to install it. If you have the equipment, it doesn't take vary long, just drop the subframe.
Old 03-29-03, 07:37 AM
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Didn't remove sub-frame

I just took the nut off the adjusting bolt and tapped it toward the outside of the car. Then I used my 3-inch cutoff tool to take off the head of the adjustment bolt. Once that was done, I tapped the rest of the bolt out toward the inside of the suspension ( toward the storage bin). It came right out and then I was able to drop the swing arm. When I went to replace it, I attempted to insert the bolt from the inside out. Here's where the minor problem comes into play. The new bolt is too long to make it past the storage box. I just used a 1-1/4" hole saw on the box and installed the bolt in reverse. Everything worked just fine. I installed a rubber body plug from the inside of the box to plug the hole. The entire job took about 30 minutes including the installation of the strut assembly.
You can all raise hell with me for perforating my wife's car, but I didn't have to drop the subframe and the car's back on the road with no problems. The only problem I had was paying $20 at the dealer for the new adjusting bolt.
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