I was just curious, If I were to get the rear toe bars, and get rid of the factory eccentric bolt, where would be the best place to put a single bigger bolt through? The outter points are slotted, so I'm guessing most people drill a bigger hole and weld a washer to keep it in place, but where along that slotted hole?

 

Why?


-Ted

 

Just out of curiousity. So I'm guessing through the middle?

 

I think the question is, as long as the eccentric bolt does the job, why bother? Or rather (since I gather the toe bar is adjustable?) why bother getting an adjustable bar, just to make it non-adjustable?

 

I was under the impression if people buy these adj toe arms, they get rid fo the eccentric bolt. If they get rid of it, you put a bigger bolt through the control arm, so there is less chance of slipping and you have a bigger stronger bolt.

Im not planning on getting adj toe arms yet. It will be a long time before I get those, possibley never.

I guess it wouldn't mater much because you will have spherical bearings at that point?

 

I dunno what you mean by "toe arm" (diagonal link?), cause the trailing arm is one big fricken' piece!
That part of the rear suspension doesn't take much load, and it almost never slips.

I can understand if you're rallying or something, but unless you start banging on the rear tires to cause them to more forward or backward, it doesn't move.


-Ted

 

Good point.

Well, if people buy the adj toe arms(diagonal link), then you wont need the factory eccentric bolt. Im pretty sure it is very hard to make that bolt slip, but if I were to buy those adj links. I was going to get rid of the slotted holes on the mounting ears. I would jsut use a regular bolt.

Oh well, not a big deal. I was just curious to see how some people did theirs. Im looking at this other guys setup. It seems like he has his hole mounted further rearward http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index....2422#msg132422

BTW, if you look at his setup. his toe link bolts to the underside of where the control arm is. Factory the link was bolted on top of crossmember and top of control arm. Does he have his backwards right there?

 

good question, not many people on the forums document those mods, let alone alot of guys are just shock/springs.

Forgive me Gods of Supernow for whoring out your pics lol



I think supernow replaces their bushings

 

If you get the adjustable toe links, AWR is the only one I know who makes them. Of course, you could also make your own. You no longer need the offset cam washer, you still use the OEM bolt. You keep the slotted ears on the control arm. The only thing you change out is the cam washer (and bushings if you are inclined - spherical bearings, delrin, etc). Instead of the cam washer which has an offset hole, you'll need to make new washers with a centered hole. The new washers come with the AWR spherical bearing rear control arm kit but I don't know if they come with the toe link kit.

 

It wouldn't have to be centered. You could put it wherever it gives you the best camber/toe curves, the best roll centre, the best wheel and tire clearance, or whatever your criteria is.

 

It doesn't have to be centered but if using adjustable toe links it would be foolish not to make it centered. The entire idea behind using the adjustable toe links is to hold the toe in place better. The offset washer that is used to hold toe in the OEM setup can get knocked out of place with light contact, hitting a curb, or whatever. A centered washer, well it's centered, so it will always be in the same position.

 

If you look at the pics in the link posted above you'll see that it's not just a round washer that gets used, but rather an oval one, so you can have an offset hole and not worry about it slipping and changing your toe.

If it was to be just a round washer then yes I'd agree with you, but since it's not one has some choice and it might as well be taken advantage of.

 

anyone want to give out their secret specs? Don't worry, I wont be abel to copy it untill another 2 years. lol