initial D is REAL!

Hey guys, I am still pretty new to the fc rear suspension. I was told that some people have used spacers in the rear subframe to give it more positive camber? Wouldn't that worsen teh way the trailing arm swings?

al0389

iTrader: (1)

Your best bet is to get the adjustable arm from mazdatrix. Replacing the sub frame is a pain in the ***... ive done it like 3 or 4 times already...
You can choose the camber links or the arm, both can adjust camber.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm

go to the bottom of the page...

initial D is REAL!

Well, Im asking because I was thinking about making my own rear subframe bushing. I have to take a closer look at the suspension next time the car is lifted, but I'm thinking about making the top of the bushing differnt.

Am I right here
1) the more the car is lowered, the trailing arm angle gets lifted, creating negative camber?
2)So if i make the top of the bushing as thin as possible, it will ever so slightly correct it? I dont mean any significant amount here

Have a lot of people raised the trainling arm mounting points?

I had a Datsun 510 before and the suspension is somewhat similar. people would raise the trailing arm mounting pionts so their arm had normal travel.

Black91n/a

Well with the adjustable arm you'll eventually run out of travel and run the diff into the chassis, right? This can't be great for the u-joint due to the angle. So if you space the outside down then you don't have to pull up as much on the middle to get the same amount of camber compensation. Makes sense to me.

Yes, as the car is lowered it gains a lot of negative camber.

initial D is REAL!

Yeah, I am going ot keep the subframe mounts in facotry position. I guess the u joints wont be able to take much angle. But what the 510 gusy were doing was making the bolt holes for the trainline arm at a higher position. I have to take another look at the rx7 suspension, I know there are a few more bars to consider

Roen

iTrader: (2)

You can always just buy both forms of adjusters and really crank out the camber, but one should be sufficient.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Are you slamming the car so much that even the single adjuster is worthless?

initial D is REAL!

No, I am getting a dailey driver car soon. My rx7 will be sittin on the side so I can freshen it up. i will be replacing all bushings, wheel bearings, and other stuff to get the slop out of this 20 year old car. Maybe some body work

While everything is apart, I want to do whatever fabrication, or anything. I can do while everythign is apart

Black91n/a

I am not a fan of doing that without having spherical bearings in the rear control arms. Those individual adjusters twist the bearings and can cause binding, which is bad. This will be even more prevelant if you've got harder than stock bushings, the worst would be if you have something solid like delrin.

I have them, but I just used them to even out the camber from the camber rod, and I chose to keep the stock bushings back there for now, so it's a small amount on soft bushings, so it shouldn't be too bad.

13b_cookie_monster

iTrader: (14)

I run the rear control arm camber adjusters. When I lowered the car if caused way too much camber and with these I was able to dial out most of it.
I bought mine used from a friend but he got those on this site:
http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/per...uspensions.htm
good luck I recommend these, super easy to install and pretty easy to adjust

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

I had a feeling they were made by AWR. I was looking at those the other day.

initial D is REAL!

How about the front suspension? Im thinking about going polyurethane front suspension bushings to save money. Those dont bind too bad, right? My car would b used for track events every now and then, not very often. Some street driving if i can afford the insurance. The spherical bearings are real nice, but I would really like a bearing catalog with prices. Each company I just see measurements and part #'s. I'll have better measurements when my control arms are out

You think if I had spherical beairngs in my rear trailing arms, I could use regular bushings on my adj camber arms? Just curious. Seems like all thes cars using trailing arms all have binding issues

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index....2422#msg132422

initial D is REAL!

Nice setup! Too bad I cant get a better look at the bearing inside the trailing arms. No swaybar hugh?

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

some like them without the sway bar. Might be a little too extreme for some guys on here so its really up to you. Just try it.

My car came with it disconnected, i reconnected.. im only daily driving right now so i couldnt really say of its significance. But my plans are to get the dtss eliminators and some camber links.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

You won't bind in the front with polyurethane bushings, since camber adjustment is either via cam/crash/camber bolts or camber plates.

In the rear, you bind with stiff bushings because, something stiffer doesn't like to be twisted and doesn't have enough give. I second Black91n/a's method, because that's what I do too; I run both adjusters and use the single link for coarse adjustment and the individual links for fine adjustment. I can attest that too much adjustment with stiffer bushings WILL cause binding, as I've had to discard a couple of good autocross runs right at the end when my suspension decided to finally bind up. AWR spherical bearings will solve that problem though.

I love how the guy says in Hypertek's link that the DTSS system CAUSES snap oversteer. Someone needs to do a little more reading.....

Black91n/a

One caveat in the front, that rear bushing can get quite compressed and may cause some binding. You could either shave off part of the bottom to give a looser fit (NOT TOO MUCH), you still want it to clamp firmly, just not to the point where it'll be impeding motion too much. You could also put some washers under the clamp to loosen it off. Sway bar bushings do the same thing and it's a contributing factor for Miata and FD sway bar brackets ripping off. The same thing is reccomended there, shave the bushings or put washers under the clamps. You can also install some grease fittings into the bushing clamps and control arm, then drill the bushings to allow you to lube them from time to time if squeaking concerns you.

I've run ES urethane bushings in front on my car for a few years with no issues, mostly street (daily driver) with some track and autocross mixed in. For that use urethane is a good compromise.

While those spherical bearings are great for a race car, if it's still mostly street, then just get new stock bushings and keep the adjustment of the individual camber adjusters to a minimum and you'll be fine. Spherical bearings will wear out much faster than stock bushings and it may become a problem after a few years on the street. Just keep that in mind.