Rear strut bar? what do u have?
i have a cp racing rear strut bar, very poor design though... i got it for free... what can i expect,
if you get one make sure its one that actually conects to the strut tower bolts....
the crappy cp racing one i got has two conections to the floor which i like, but then the ends of the straight across bar conect to to the speaker tower!!, ( which is thin sheet metal which flexes im sure....
looks like this
|----------| < conects to speaker tower, not actual shock tower, weak!
__/__\___
^ bolts to threaded holes in the floor( no clue why they are there but when i put it in they matched up with these weird factory holes....found a pic of it on someoens thread
if you get one make sure its one that actually conects to the strut tower bolts....
the crappy cp racing one i got has two conections to the floor which i like, but then the ends of the straight across bar conect to to the speaker tower!!, ( which is thin sheet metal which flexes im sure....
looks like this
|----------| < conects to speaker tower, not actual shock tower, weak!
__/__\___
^ bolts to threaded holes in the floor( no clue why they are there but when i put it in they matched up with these weird factory holes....found a pic of it on someoens thread
Last edited by KompressorLOgic; Dec 26, 2005 at 01:45 AM.
Made my own, welded in. The down bars are welded to the floor directly above the rear camber link which ties eveything together far better than the two small down bars found in other shock tower braces.
I am considering making a bolt in bar of the same style if the is enough interest.
I am considering making a bolt in bar of the same style if the is enough interest.
Originally Posted by Karack
i just use the cheapo megan racing ones for ~$28, i don't see good enough reason to spend $150+ for a tiny bit of extra stiffness.
Are their rear ones ok? I have a front one and its the absolute worst fitment ever. It hits the overflow cap and also the alternator. It taps down my alternator, after about a day of driving the belt is loose again. ANd every few days the overflow cap opens. I just too it off and decided to find a more reputable one.
Last edited by BklynRX7; Dec 26, 2005 at 10:37 AM.
well the one i got fits just fine, round tube type but i did have to pry out on the thin sheet metal around the tower to get the mount to fit in there or you could grind down on the bar's mount plate in that area.
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Originally Posted by Karack
well the one i got fits just fine, round tube type but i did have to pry out on the thin sheet metal around the tower to get the mount to fit in there or you could grind down on the bar's mount plate in that area.
I got mine from eBay. IIRC the shipping cost more than the bar. -natey
did it help any cause i just ordered one along with the front a few days ago . i mean anything helps.
did it help any cause i just ordered one along with the front a few days ago . i mean anything helps.
Last edited by unek87; Dec 26, 2005 at 01:16 PM.
it helps a little but i still don't understand why people spend $200 on a rear strut bar, a roll cage helps stiffen the car up 10 times more than a rear bar and costs about another $100 and gives the car a much more aggressive look as well as safety so long as the right one is used for street driving.
hey i got my MazdaSpeed Front Strut on ebay for $164.39
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT
Front bars have a huge gap between knock off and real ones.
The EBay knock offs hit the alternator.
The real ones like the one from the Infini or racingbeat are spaced forward to clear the alternator.
The back I would assume doesn't make as much of a difference as long as it bolts to the strut tower.
The EBay knock offs hit the alternator.
The real ones like the one from the Infini or racingbeat are spaced forward to clear the alternator.
The back I would assume doesn't make as much of a difference as long as it bolts to the strut tower.
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by kompressorlogic
i have a cp racing rear strut bar, very poor design though... i got it for free... what can i expect,
if you get one make sure its one that actually conects to the strut tower bolts....
the crappy cp racing one i got has two conections to the floor which i like, but then the ends of the straight across bar conect to to the speaker tower!!, ( which is thin sheet metal which flexes im sure....
if you get one make sure its one that actually conects to the strut tower bolts....
the crappy cp racing one i got has two conections to the floor which i like, but then the ends of the straight across bar conect to to the speaker tower!!, ( which is thin sheet metal which flexes im sure....
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Everyone want's bolt in, so the CP bar is designed to bolt into a stock car and still allow you to keep the speakers without having to cut into any sheet metal. If you want something more hard core, then you may need to loose the speakers and you will certainly have to cut into the sheet metal.
i should just make my own that does that...anybody with a rear bar...how long is the bar? what the distance between the bolt holes on each side?
maybe i should make one that adjusts in the middle...i've got everythign to do it at work...
maybe i should make one that adjusts in the middle...i've got everythign to do it at work...





