ok well i took the bezel off and the wire is melted that goes into the wiring harness...

 

You must replace the harness as well as the switch then.

Replacing just one or the other will result in the same problem happening again 6 months or so down the road.

When the switch fails, it burns up internally as well as overheats the harness.

When the harness connection fails, it over heats and damaged the circuit board inside the switch.

You should also clean all your bulbs and bulb contacts and use a little conductive grease. 90% of the time the reason either the switch or harness failed was because of built up corrosion and resistance in the bulbs sockets.

 

Yes, definitely.

I mentioned earlier that I checked all the circuits and harnesses that I could get my hands on. I am lucky that the FSM came with my car.

Before I bought the seven, I did a bit of research and found that quite a bit of the wiring can fail due to bad solders, etc. So I fully expected some electrical probs. I still haven't dealt with the clock flickering off and on along with some other minor electrical annoyances.

Good luck with fix and if Icemark says anything about electricals and the like, he is more than likely correct--so follow it. On a sidenote, he was the one who helped me with my gauge cluster swap--it was easy as pie.

 

The RELAY is the long term solution. Cleaning all the sockets would not be as effective although not a bad thing to do anyway.

I don't know why I get no recognition for this. It's a damn good idea. I guess people that sell rebuilt switches would have a conflict of interest and if those same people are influential with the powers that be on the forum, well........

If there's a downside to the idea then I would certainly like to hear it.

 

Actually I have posted the parking light switch external relay upgrade countless times on this forum over the last couple of years. I think if you searched on it you would find my first post on using a relay to augment the system back around late 01.

But the relay does not fix what causes the problem(s) in the first place. It only decreases the likelyhood of the issue. However if you still have bad bulb sockets, the relay just moves the problem from the switch to the sockets.

Personally I would get everything fixed, then add the relay. That is how it is on my FCs.

So get off your horse, and stop being an *** with the conflict of intrest stuff. It is inappropriate and out of place. Furthermore I only started selling rebuilt headlight switches recently (like in the last 6 months), and it clearly states that the switch will not be an upgrade like the rebuilt wiper switches are, and current handling is not increased. The rebuilt headlight switches are only a product because I got tired of owners asking and asking for them.

And I have absolutely no influence over the powers that be on this forum. I am simply a lowly moderator, that has no input what so ever on running this board.

 

ok i replaced that foot and a half length wire and all the **** works correctly

 

Good job.

 

Well remember that only fixes the symptoms, not the problem. Don't forget to replace the headlight switch if it is burnt, and clean all the parking light bulbs and sockets.

Or you will get the same problem again.

and if you really want to make it heavy duty, then add the relay talked about in earlier posts.