Rear Quarter Panel Damage...
07-17-08, 07:17 PM
#1
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Rear Quarter Panel Damage...
Alright, so I might be trading my N/A S5(240,xxxkms) for an S5 T2(170,xxxkms) (this would be a straight trade as well)..only catches are:
1) Mine has more mods done to it (coilovers, full exhaust, bunch of other smaller things), and this thing has wheels and a cat back.
2) It's got some pretty decent damage to the rear quarter panel.....Been quoted $2000 to fix, which seems a little bit extreme (guy said it needs a new quarter panel (duh), and he said it was bent on the inside??? Strut tower???)...
3) The T2's engine has about 50,000kms on it, where mine has around 200,000kms.
4) Mine has some SALT RUST - Quebec car.
So, basically what I'm asking, do you think I should go through with it, and does that quote seem a little on the high side to you guys/body men?
Full car reference:
Mine:
TurboII's good side:
I should also mention that both cars have Work Equips on them..so wheels don't really matter to me.
Edit - I also know the T2's history, as well as 2 out of the 4 owners.
1) Mine has more mods done to it (coilovers, full exhaust, bunch of other smaller things), and this thing has wheels and a cat back.
2) It's got some pretty decent damage to the rear quarter panel.....Been quoted $2000 to fix, which seems a little bit extreme (guy said it needs a new quarter panel (duh), and he said it was bent on the inside??? Strut tower???)...
3) The T2's engine has about 50,000kms on it, where mine has around 200,000kms.
4) Mine has some SALT RUST - Quebec car.
So, basically what I'm asking, do you think I should go through with it, and does that quote seem a little on the high side to you guys/body men?
Full car reference:
Mine:
TurboII's good side:
I should also mention that both cars have Work Equips on them..so wheels don't really matter to me.
Edit - I also know the T2's history, as well as 2 out of the 4 owners.
07-17-08, 09:18 PM
#2
Holy **** thats Metal's old car! What a frickin shame, and how funny is it that you'll be owning both his cars lol.
I dunno if you should get it, its something I had to go through also. Stock suspension really sucks, but it depends on the way you like to drive. But because you have a high mileage NA engine you should probably go with the TII. Hes actually going to have to cut a quarter panel out of another car and weld it on since thats part of the unibody.
Just for comparison this repair cost me $600:
I dunno if you should get it, its something I had to go through also. Stock suspension really sucks, but it depends on the way you like to drive. But because you have a high mileage NA engine you should probably go with the TII. Hes actually going to have to cut a quarter panel out of another car and weld it on since thats part of the unibody.
Just for comparison this repair cost me $600:
07-17-08, 09:35 PM
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
Take a SawZaw and cut the metal surrounding the strut tower and bang the body out. Then bondo it and and paint it and your ready to go!
Thats what I did when i installed my strut bar. However I dont have any rear speakers so it didnt bother me.
Thats what I did when i installed my strut bar. However I dont have any rear speakers so it didnt bother me.
07-17-08, 10:13 PM
#4
if the rear is not offset from the front, then you can just do as napsterfreak said.
But make sure to hit out the bends as straight as you possibly can so that you dont have to use alot of bondo. A hammer and dolly set is great for it. Youll probably need a stud welder also with a puller to pull out the small dents.
After bondoing (is that even a verb..) it to make it even more smoother you can use polyester putty to finish it off. and sanding the putty off with 180 grit.
But make sure to hit out the bends as straight as you possibly can so that you dont have to use alot of bondo. A hammer and dolly set is great for it. Youll probably need a stud welder also with a puller to pull out the small dents.
After bondoing (is that even a verb..) it to make it even more smoother you can use polyester putty to finish it off. and sanding the putty off with 180 grit.
07-17-08, 11:40 PM
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Holy **** thats Metal's old car! What a frickin shame, and how funny is it that you'll be owning both his cars lol.
I dunno if you should get it, its something I had to go through also. Stock suspension really sucks, but it depends on the way you like to drive. But because you have a high mileage NA engine you should probably go with the TII. Hes actually going to have to cut a quarter panel out of another car and weld it on since thats part of the unibody.
Just for comparison this repair cost me $600:
I dunno if you should get it, its something I had to go through also. Stock suspension really sucks, but it depends on the way you like to drive. But because you have a high mileage NA engine you should probably go with the TII. Hes actually going to have to cut a quarter panel out of another car and weld it on since thats part of the unibody.
Just for comparison this repair cost me $600:
07-17-08, 11:42 PM
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if the rear is not offset from the front, then you can just do as napsterfreak said.
But make sure to hit out the bends as straight as you possibly can so that you dont have to use alot of bondo. A hammer and dolly set is great for it. Youll probably need a stud welder also with a puller to pull out the small dents.
After bondoing (is that even a verb..) it to make it even more smoother you can use polyester putty to finish it off. and sanding the putty off with 180 grit.
But make sure to hit out the bends as straight as you possibly can so that you dont have to use alot of bondo. A hammer and dolly set is great for it. Youll probably need a stud welder also with a puller to pull out the small dents.
After bondoing (is that even a verb..) it to make it even more smoother you can use polyester putty to finish it off. and sanding the putty off with 180 grit.
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07-18-08, 12:22 AM
#8
I think that prices for bodywork/paint are variable depending on your location, so it's hard to say.
You could always get a few quotes and see what the average for your area would be.
You also have to factor in the quality of work you'll be getting...Maaco would obviously be cheaper but the work might not be up to your standards.
Two months ago my Mom's Lexus got rear ended by a pickup truck...missed the bumper altogether and basically crushed the the car from the rear doors back.
I thought for sure the insurance would total the car but the quote was just under the write off price and it was repaired.
I was extremely skeptical but the final result was amazing.
We insisted on seeing the car at several stages of the process and when finished, I couldn't tell there had ever been damage at all.*
A pro like Classicauto might be more discerning but I thought it was as close to perfect as could be.
The point being- if they can fix that damage to the point where it's undetectable (inside and out) then 2K doesn't seem out of line.
*There was no Bondo involved at all, new metal everywhere and the car was painted from the front doors back- including the roof- so the paint would all match.
Total repair was just under 13K.
You could always get a few quotes and see what the average for your area would be.
You also have to factor in the quality of work you'll be getting...Maaco would obviously be cheaper but the work might not be up to your standards.
Two months ago my Mom's Lexus got rear ended by a pickup truck...missed the bumper altogether and basically crushed the the car from the rear doors back.
I thought for sure the insurance would total the car but the quote was just under the write off price and it was repaired.
I was extremely skeptical but the final result was amazing.
We insisted on seeing the car at several stages of the process and when finished, I couldn't tell there had ever been damage at all.*
A pro like Classicauto might be more discerning but I thought it was as close to perfect as could be.
The point being- if they can fix that damage to the point where it's undetectable (inside and out) then 2K doesn't seem out of line.
*There was no Bondo involved at all, new metal everywhere and the car was painted from the front doors back- including the roof- so the paint would all match.
Total repair was just under 13K.
07-18-08, 12:24 AM
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07-18-08, 12:26 AM
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I think that prices for bodywork/paint are variable depending on your location, so it's hard to say.
You could always get a few quotes and see what the average for your area would be.
You also have to factor in the quality of work you'll be getting...Maaco would obviously be cheaper but the work might not be up to your standards.
Two months ago my Mom's Lexus got rear ended by a pickup truck...missed the bumper altogether and basically crushed the the car from the rear doors back.
I thought for sure the insurance would total the car but the quote was just under the write off price and it was repaired.
I was extremely skeptical but the final result was amazing.
We insisted on seeing the car at several stages of the process and when finished, I couldn't tell there had ever been damage at all.*
A pro like Classicauto might be more discerning but I thought it was as close to perfect as could be.
The point being- if they can fix that damage to the point where it's undetectable (inside and out) then 2K doesn't seem out of line.
*There was no Bondo involved at all, new metal everywhere and the car was painted from the front doors back- including the roof- so the paint would all match.
Total repair was just under 13K.
You could always get a few quotes and see what the average for your area would be.
You also have to factor in the quality of work you'll be getting...Maaco would obviously be cheaper but the work might not be up to your standards.
Two months ago my Mom's Lexus got rear ended by a pickup truck...missed the bumper altogether and basically crushed the the car from the rear doors back.
I thought for sure the insurance would total the car but the quote was just under the write off price and it was repaired.
I was extremely skeptical but the final result was amazing.
We insisted on seeing the car at several stages of the process and when finished, I couldn't tell there had ever been damage at all.*
A pro like Classicauto might be more discerning but I thought it was as close to perfect as could be.
The point being- if they can fix that damage to the point where it's undetectable (inside and out) then 2K doesn't seem out of line.
*There was no Bondo involved at all, new metal everywhere and the car was painted from the front doors back- including the roof- so the paint would all match.
Total repair was just under 13K.
07-19-08, 02:01 AM
#12
Considering where you live, I'd do it just to get away from the rust alone lol.
Plus its got less miles and its faster. Does the damage to the TII affect drivability? If not then do it and get it fixed whenever you can get it fixed, at least the car won't rust out from under you in the interim.
Plus its got less miles and its faster. Does the damage to the TII affect drivability? If not then do it and get it fixed whenever you can get it fixed, at least the car won't rust out from under you in the interim.
07-19-08, 02:25 AM
#13
Considering where you live, I'd do it just to get away from the rust alone lol.
Plus its got less miles and its faster. Does the damage to the TII affect drivability? If not then do it and get it fixed whenever you can get it fixed, at least the car won't rust out from under you in the interim.
Plus its got less miles and its faster. Does the damage to the TII affect drivability? If not then do it and get it fixed whenever you can get it fixed, at least the car won't rust out from under you in the interim.
i agree totally
07-19-08, 02:26 AM
#14
well rested,buffet o food
07-19-08, 02:32 AM
#15
thats the cheaper and easiest possibly even best way to do it in my oppinion
07-19-08, 08:32 AM
#18
2K isn't unreasonable for that. By the looks of it the inner quarter is also bent, which means you'll surely need to mount it on the rack, pull it out, do some quick measurements/wheel tramming before you even get into the body work end of things.
For that kind of money you should be getting a quality repair though. If the rest of the car is worth it (much rust underneath?) I don't see why you wouldn't if you're really interested in the car. Plus - I'll bet dollars to doughnuts if you ask them about doing the rest of the car at the same time (unless you're planning on adding other things) they'll cut you a deal considering that you're already spending a nice little chunk at their store.
For that kind of money you should be getting a quality repair though. If the rest of the car is worth it (much rust underneath?) I don't see why you wouldn't if you're really interested in the car. Plus - I'll bet dollars to doughnuts if you ask them about doing the rest of the car at the same time (unless you're planning on adding other things) they'll cut you a deal considering that you're already spending a nice little chunk at their store.
