Rear Main seal leak, even after new seal.
#1
Ban Peak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (49)
Rear Main seal leak, even after new seal.
Hey guys,
Long story short, less than 1,000 miles ago I put a new flywheel/clutch on my TII and replaced the rear main seal.
I recently had an issue with my clutch, so I dropped the trans and saw more oil in front of the flywheel. I took the flywheel off and the new rear main seal is leaking/oily. I've replaced oil seals before on other cars without any issues.
This one beats the hell out of me, None of the surfaces were marred, and I tapped it in place nice and easy using a socket extension. I have always tapped them into place with a socket extension or shomething flat with dull rounded edges.
I was also reading up and found a TSB on AllData about replacing the rear stationary gear o-ring along with the rear main seal.
Will this stop my leak?
It says I have to line the front pulley up at TDC, would I be best lining the yellow mark up with the tit on the front cover?
Thanks!
Long story short, less than 1,000 miles ago I put a new flywheel/clutch on my TII and replaced the rear main seal.
I recently had an issue with my clutch, so I dropped the trans and saw more oil in front of the flywheel. I took the flywheel off and the new rear main seal is leaking/oily. I've replaced oil seals before on other cars without any issues.
This one beats the hell out of me, None of the surfaces were marred, and I tapped it in place nice and easy using a socket extension. I have always tapped them into place with a socket extension or shomething flat with dull rounded edges.
I was also reading up and found a TSB on AllData about replacing the rear stationary gear o-ring along with the rear main seal.
Will this stop my leak?
It says I have to line the front pulley up at TDC, would I be best lining the yellow mark up with the tit on the front cover?
Thanks!
#2
They live We sleep
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Hey guys,
Long story short, less than 1,000 miles ago I put a new flywheel/clutch on my TII and replaced the rear main seal.
I recently had an issue with my clutch, so I dropped the trans and saw more oil in front of the flywheel. I took the flywheel off and the new rear main seal is leaking/oily. I've replaced oil seals before on other cars without any issues.
This one beats the hell out of me, None of the surfaces were marred, and I tapped it in place nice and easy using a socket extension. I have always tapped them into place with a socket extension or shomething flat with dull rounded edges.
I was also reading up and found a TSB on AllData about replacing the rear stationary gear o-ring along with the rear main seal.
Will this stop my leak?
It says I have to line the front pulley up at TDC, would I be best lining the yellow mark up with the tit on the front cover?
Thanks!
Long story short, less than 1,000 miles ago I put a new flywheel/clutch on my TII and replaced the rear main seal.
I recently had an issue with my clutch, so I dropped the trans and saw more oil in front of the flywheel. I took the flywheel off and the new rear main seal is leaking/oily. I've replaced oil seals before on other cars without any issues.
This one beats the hell out of me, None of the surfaces were marred, and I tapped it in place nice and easy using a socket extension. I have always tapped them into place with a socket extension or shomething flat with dull rounded edges.
I was also reading up and found a TSB on AllData about replacing the rear stationary gear o-ring along with the rear main seal.
Will this stop my leak?
It says I have to line the front pulley up at TDC, would I be best lining the yellow mark up with the tit on the front cover?
Thanks!
is it possible its coming from somewhere else?
#5
Ban Peak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (49)
Am I fine with just lining up the yellow mark with the tit, and pulling the rear stat gear?
Are the any other reccomended precautions to keep the rotor from turning?
#6
talking head
last time i did one i did not even bother with TDC
,, just drew out the stat gear and made damn sure the motor did not move before i slid it back in with the new O ring
if you are super worried you can try taking the engine out and sitting it on the front pulley and a supporting brick or two so that the rear stat is vertical
,, just drew out the stat gear and made damn sure the motor did not move before i slid it back in with the new O ring
if you are super worried you can try taking the engine out and sitting it on the front pulley and a supporting brick or two so that the rear stat is vertical
#7
Ban Peak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (49)
Hey guys real quick.
When I put in the new rear main seal I wasn't thinking and applied oil to both the inner lip and the outer edge surface.
Do I need to pop it back out and clean the oil off of the outer edge and Stat gear? Or will it be okay and not leak?
I still have the trans out, so it's no big deal.
When I put in the new rear main seal I wasn't thinking and applied oil to both the inner lip and the outer edge surface.
Do I need to pop it back out and clean the oil off of the outer edge and Stat gear? Or will it be okay and not leak?
I still have the trans out, so it's no big deal.
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#9
Ban Peak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (49)
Sweet, I didn't think it would. I just wanted to double check because I was doubting myself.
Now to finish re-sealing the tail housing on the trans tomorrow. I hope the other seals(Mid and Bearing housings) don't start leaking!
I hate that the TII trans comes apart the way it does.
Now to finish re-sealing the tail housing on the trans tomorrow. I hope the other seals(Mid and Bearing housings) don't start leaking!
I hate that the TII trans comes apart the way it does.
#11
Ban Peak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (49)
Any Mazda dealer. I'm local to Malloy, fortunately they give just about the best prices nationally and ship nationally as well. Parts direct is 704-490-8263, ask for Ray Crowe and tell him RX7club sent you.
#12
My job is to blow **** up
iTrader: (8)
i've put a few rear irons on without the stat gear to helping lining it all up... to get the stat gear in i usually have to rotate the engine back and forth until the gear falls into place. never any damage from rotating it without the gear in, so it's even less critical that you think.
#13
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
i've put a few rear irons on without the stat gear to helping lining it all up... to get the stat gear in i usually have to rotate the engine back and forth until the gear falls into place. never any damage from rotating it without the gear in, so it's even less critical that you think.
assuming the gears aren't lined up perfectly i drop the gear in until it goes into the rotor then twist the stat gear until the pin lines up with the slot(closest matching gear with the pin located). with enough rotating force on an unclocked engine you could pinch the apex seals into the rotors. considering it is a 1/3 gear reduction engine it actually doesn't take as much force as you would think.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-05-13 at 09:25 PM.
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